Member postings for old mart

I have some of the S & B lathe specifications which list collets, and a drawing of a test bar for the Model A which shows the exact collet dimensions.

I have a good supply of the Chinese inserts intended for aluminium, they are excellent value for money. They can also be used on steel and stainless steel for very fine cutting where ordinary inserts would just rub. You can get away with cuts of 0.0005" or even less on steel. They are so cheap that destroying the edge doesn't break the bank. If your lathe is big enough to use WNMG 06, then you get 6 edges per insert, otherwise it is usually 2.

I thought it was the second of January, not April the first, I must go and make a set of cutlery out of that beryllium copper in the shed.

At the museum, we have the 1/4" PCL fittings, but for home I have the Euro fittings which were on the little home compressor and on all the pneumatic bits form Lidl. They should not require any lubrication. Grit from the op's blaster probably got into his fitting and ruined it.

R8 collets are definitely a very useful addition, especially when your Z axis is shorter than you would like for the taller jobs. It would be best start with the sizes which match the cutters you have. We have the full set at the museum, and most of them have never been used.

Car wheels used to be held on with headed studs with splines on the diameter just under the head. They didn't go as big as 20mm, but light commercial vehicles such as Transits might. Try a garage for wheel studs. 

A drawing would help.

Edited By old mart on 01/01/2020 13:39:41

Edited By old mart on 01/01/2020 13:41:02

I reversed the house phone connection as the incoming supply has moved from one side of the living room to the other. The wiring around the skirting, under the carpet across a door frame was too much for me to change, but looking through my many phone cables and changing one end plug, with a check first with a meter, it works, hooray and a happy new year to all.

I would also tend towards getting er25 collets rather than er32, they go to 16mm, and if you need bigger, then a shell mill of 40 mm is easy to get.

I used to do all my porting on motorcycles by hand with riffler files. Matching the profiles of bolted together components is best done with the help of thin card cutouts like gaskets, using the stud / bolt holes for alignment. One for each part, and when they are put together, it is easy to see the mismatches, and decide where the metal is to be removed.

Those green marks have matured into Virgin Media fibre optic and they fitted me up last Friday. Its goodbye to Sky after about fifteen years. When I called to cancel the Sky package, I was offered all sorts of upgrades and 50% off my bills, but it was too late, my mind was made up. Now I can record six programs at once, the phone number will revert to the old one in a couple of weeks and the internet speed is faster. Did I say the internet is faster, yes, 30 times as fast, I checked with OOKLA and it was 223Mbit down and 20Mbit up. More than I will ever need. I tried downloading Windows 10 64 bit which is just under 5 gigabytes and it completed in under three minutes.

You could hold the carbide tip in a chuck or collet and use a diamond file or lap to reduce the diameter slightly. I would go for a sliding fit and use Loctite or epoxy glue to secure it. A small flat would stop a hydraulic lock while assembling.

Mark P, I believe you can only revert to W7 if the machine originally had it and was then "upgraded" to W10, not if the pc came with W10 from new.                                                                                                                                              I did this with an old pc and used an ISO of the appropriate W7 for a clean install, the only choice was 32 or 64 bit.

Edited By old mart on 31/12/2019 15:10:07

The only feature of a mill for home shop use which I would find essential is the R8 spindle taper.

One thing to be aware of when sawing deep cuts is that the blades have no set, so if the metal moves due to stresses being relieved, it could pinch the saw.

I'm never sure if it is best to cut in stages, or the full depth in one pass.

Edited By old mart on 30/12/2019 19:31:42

The four new dovetail bolts were made using the modified four flute endmill (5/8" or 16mm screwed shank originally) ground to match the angle of the original bolts. The 5/16" threaded end of the bolts was produced first in a 1" diameter EN16T bar fixed to the rotary table at the same radius as the centre line of the dovetail slot in the cross slide. The difficult bit was positioning the cutting edge of the end mill the correct amount inside and outside of that radius. I think I measured the diameter of the mill at the exact point where the modified tapered end joined the original diameter. The bolts were finally cut from the bar and their ends radiused and they fitted the dovetail first time, which was fortunate as no reworking was possible, or test fitting. Having four bolts now means that the compound can be secure without tightening the nuts so much, thus reducing the forces on the weakened casting. Another job that would have been much easier with DRO scales on the X and Y  on the mil

Edited By old mart on 30/12/2019 18:51:26

Edited By old mart on 30/12/2019 18:55:51

Edited By old mart on 30/12/2019 18:57:34

Edited By old mart on 30/12/2019 18:58:33

CT90 is a tapping oil, you would be better off getting a small quantity of soluble cutting oil and diluting some of it 10% and using it in a squeezy bottle with a long spout.

We were left an 0-1" Mitutoyo mic in a legacy, it is one of their early ones, in a tiny box with a picture of their Tokyo factory inside. The early ones have slotted screws for the lock and ratchet.

Shame it seems to be an exclusive Model M group, not much use for the rest of the S& B people.

If I could choose, it would be the Tesa.

I agree, the L4 is a common S & B casting / forging mark, and 16DP is one of their gear tooth sizes for the model M type.