Member postings for old mart

Get one with an R8 or ISO30 spindle not a Morse taper.

I do agree with Pauls tee bolts they will be much stronger than tee nuts which always are weakened by the threaded hole. Easy to turn on a lathe making the threaded part first and the head last before parting off. The head can be quite big to spread the load and cutting down the sides to a just sliding fit in the slot is easy. I made some much more sophisticated tee bolts for the compound of the Smart & Brown model A, they were dovetail with a curve to match the round tee slot.

Making custom nuts has an advantage, they can fit the slots perfectly and be made from key steel or even chrome moly like en19t or en24t. And possibly be made longer to spread the load better.

If you don't have a mill, they can be made from round bar and the sides cut down to your slot width with a hacksaw.

Edited By old mart on 15/04/2023 21:36:08

Edited By old mart on 15/04/2023 21:39:19

That motor is an 8 pole which is quite a lot more expensive than one of their 6 pole motors. I bought a 6 pole TEC motor with both feet and flange mounting, and the feet can be removed if not required. It is 0.75 Kw and can run at 1400 all day long. I also bought a VFD and have it programmed for 25 to 75 Hz, it can run at 100 Hz if needed. Your choice of inverter is good because the Inverter Drive Supermarket has the truely excellent "quick start guide" which is printable as a pdf and makes wiring including remote controls plus the most used programming parameters so easy, even I could do it. Having the motor speed control should be not be seen as a substitute for the speed changes by belt, but as extra versatility.

Edited By old mart on 15/04/2023 21:30:47

Some of these DRO's have a connection for an external power source, check and have a look at the instructions if there are any.

Welcome, Ross, your woodworking skills will stand you in good stead, machining metal is much the same basically.

Not to worry, Bill, I know perfectly well that it was the communist lot that was refered to all the time. I have never bought anything directly from Taiwan knowingly although their products are better quality. I would like a Vertex 160 four jaw chuck, but they are a little too expensive. I do have one of those electronic mill edge finders made in Taiwan by Vertex and the clones sold today are available for 1/4 what I paid, made by the other Chinese. Most postage must be highly subsidised, the poor old Royal Mail must hate it.

Nobody had mentioned PROC until my post.

Citric acid can be used to passivate stainless steel which is particularly important if it is used in a marine enviroment.

The thin plate could be removed and the balls shaken out and when being reassembled a new plate made up dished like a core plug and pressed flat. I would be reluctant to take a new chuck apart as it will likely run in with use as already mentioned. The nose end could be unscrewed from the middle section (pn.2) to make it easy to wash the jaw assembly, but it is unclear whether the jaws can be completely removed with the balls still in place. I believe the Albrecht instructions mention not lubricating the centre threads, that might also be the case with Rohm.

Maybe Spaulding Fasteners might have them, they are very good.

I think you will find that mainland China is called the Peoples Republic Of China.

I bought a Geiger counter directly and it cost about £65 and no extra duty costs were added, maybe it slipped through the net.

That's correct, Robert, so many people seem to think that the controls on a VFD box are for continuous use, they are not, being only for setting up and programming. This is fine for a unit which is set up and not then touched, as most are. Proper switch and speed control gear separate from the VFD should be added. If somebody has plenty of money, they can buy a fully wired system for as little as double the cost of the parts.

Bad luck with the inverter instructions, you may be able to get help from forum members on wiring and programming it.

I have tried for years to get people to do research on these drives before buying them, but low prices are a big factor. Have a look at thes 1.5Kw domestic mains powered inverter from The Inverter Drive Supermarket. Look at the "quick start guide" they include for many of their products, the guide makes it very easy to wire and programme and is worth the higher price.

**LINK**

I agree with the 21.5mm starting bore suggestion. If there is enough length of metal to allow an extra length bored to 23.5mm, it would take care of the squareness and could be cut off after tapping. Extra length would also allow flats at the other end to hold in a vise which could also be removed afterwards.

Edited By old mart on 11/04/2023 21:12:23

It does move out of sight when you scroll down through the threads.

For a one off, I would favour Clive's hacksaw blade method. Have as little as possible of the blade overhanging.

Be sure to look closely at the circlip before fitting, commercial versions have one sharp square side and one somewhat rounded. You want the sharp side in the direction of thrust.

A drill chuck is not the best holder for a tramming device, and a waste of money if the mill has no head tilting ability.

Thanks, Robert, that makes perfect sense to me.

 The traditional type of flame failure device relied on a thermocouple providing power to a magnet in most older boilers and also the burners and oven of my gas cooker.

Edited By old mart on 07/04/2023 18:53:56

I recovered this from the bin in the garage, a left over from boiler servicing. It is a mystery to me as to how it works. The two white electrodes are the spark igniters, but the blue one which detects the flame has only one electrical connection.