Member postings for William Chitham

I have the Aldi version, bought this spring. No problems to date, just bust the original blade so replaced with one from Tuf. Here is my minimalist approach to using as a vertical bandsaw. Spring clip on the trigger - switch it at the socket. 4mm plate for the table. Table is small enough that I can still use the thing hand held.

I don't have any collet blocks but I have heard it said that a hex block can be clamped on the flats or the corners to give 90° increments.

Here is a pretty comprehensive video showing the spindexer mod: **LINK**

William.

Thanks all, I've ordered a 2-4, 4-5.5 & 5.6-6.2 Japanese style which will cover everything I need for now.

William.

I've broken the T type wrench that came with my Aldi tap & die set so looking for a replacement. Lots available at Zoro etc but some are described as English type and some as Japanese type - what's the difference? I want to to cover the 3mm-6mm range and I'd quite like one with removable tommy bar but beyond that no preferences, any recommendations gratefully received.

Thanks, William.

Don't know about the drill but I see the portable bandsaw is back on th Aldi special buys page, I bought one in the spring and I love it (it was a Ferrex then but looks the same). The palm router is tempting too.

William.

Thanks all, if the job is a goer time pressure will probably dictate a new midrange one - spoke to a nice man at Rotagrip who stock a Vertex tapmatic style and was helpful on taps as well. If the job falls through I'll keep a lookout for a used bargain, do like the sound of the Pollard.

William.

A pal of mine has asked me if I could help out with a project that involves drilling and tapping 500-600 M4 blind holes approx 5mm deep in stainless steel. Prices seem to range from around cheapies at around £100 (eg Soba from Chronos) mid range at £250-£350 (eg Indexa at Zoro) and £600+ for a Tapmatic. My inclination is towards the mid range but I've no experience of using such a thing so any advice about what to look for would be much appreciated.

William.

Thanks for the suggestions and thanks to you John for the photos of your mill mods. Mine came with DRO installed but the X axis scale is on the back of the table where I'm sure it robs me of an inch or so of travel so I plan to move it to the front as you have. Did you manage to retain the carriage lock screws somehow on your set up?

William.

The rubber sheet which covers the Y axis screw behind the table my new mill is pretty stiff and unwieldy It doesn't take well to being crushed up when the knee is high and close to the column and I have already managed to put a rip in it when it caught on the back of the vice. Can anyone suggest a lighter more flexible material - is leather a possibility?

Thanks, William.

Bought mine from Machine Mart, no complaints: **LINK**

William.

I'm about to spend more than I can afford on a 626 milling machine and I want to fit a power feed to the x axis. I'm considering a cheap and cheerful "handbag" style one, lots available at around £140. Any advice, comments etc from anyone who has tried one would be most welcome.

Thanks, William.

The question reminded me of this Tom Lipton video: https://youtu.be/thrvEhufJJM

Obviously not directly comparable since he's turning plastic but maybe some of the techniques are relevant.

William.

They are all the rage: https://youtu.be/1d3PYMsqjsk

William.

Could you make a big washer/spacer to fit round the boss for the toolpost to sit on?

The brass mallet like thing reminds me of the tools I have seen used for tamping sand into moulds for sand casting.

Mine is pretty noisy too with the feed engaged, I reckon lot of it comes from the idler gear. The bearing is quite worn and it rattles and clanks when engaged. I'm considering how to fix the wear, maybe a bush (oilite?) or even ball or roller bearings. I have made a couple of new gears out of Delrin and it definitely runs quieter with those fitted. Thick grease can help, eg chain oil.

William.

There was a thread on this topic recently: **LINK**

William.

Does it matter if you mix up ferrous and aluminium?

I expect this is old hat but thought it might be of interest to some. I have a spin indexer capable of 1 degree increments but needed to cut a 50 tooth gear ie 7.2 degree increments. With a DRO newly installed on the mini mill I set out to make a new plate to enable 50 divisions. Rather than drill all 50 holes I decided to drill 25 in the plate and a separate set of index holes in the indexer body and whilst I was about it i thought I might as well make it good for 100 divisions as well. the hardest part was actually drilling the holes accurately, took three goes to get it right. The holes in the body came out a bit over sized as well, hence the new pin so a set of reamers are on the wish list. More photos in an album.

William.

Edited By William Chitham on 15/07/2020 15:20:42

Of course you did the right thing. Making gears is fun.