Member postings for bill ellis

Blowpipes for pygmies.

Might be heresy on an engineering forum but a small stilson pipe wrench would work. Might scuff up the holder a bit though (could line the jaws with a bit of rubber to lessen the effect). Once the jaw width is set it should take no time to grip for both tightening and loosening.

Put your finger over the ends of the open tubes, one should suck, one should blow. Use the blow to fill your cylinder. If that is not the case I would suggest that your compressor is not well.

Not sure what they used then but you can get something called "textured metal paint". TA paints Ltd still do it (I'm sure their are other suppliers/manufacturers).

I would think it is dependent on what size of part he is planning to make. I built a kit car (Spartan) utilising Ford running gear before owning any machine tools. Thinking back I do not know what I would have used either a mill or lathe for during that build as most parts came from either a donor car or with the kit itself. If you can give more detail on what he actually wants to do with a mill I'm sure that will elicit appropriate advice as to the best choice.

As a cyclist (not usually Sunday as there are too many weekend warriors winding motorists up) and the driver of one of those horrible 4x4 Land Rover things I should be hated by everyone. Maybe a caravan would help spread the love .

I thought I'd heard wobbly dog from somewhere. Turns out

John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John's, "You're The One That I Want"

Misheard Lyrics:

You're a wobbly dog.

Original Lyrics:

You're the one that I want.

Just had a listen and can't see it myself, maybe I should drink a bit more.

Most TV is pretty awful these days. One thing I cannot get my head around is why total fwits go on quiz shows. Maybe it is because they are too stupid to know they are stupid. Even my dog knows the name of the wide collars worn by men in Elizabethan times (Ruff).

Nice to see others are as mixed up as me.

Right master eye. Shoot right handed, archery left handed, write right handed, throw with left hand, kick with left foot, snooker left handed, fish right handed. Painting, DIY, doing stuff either hand.

Hi Baldric,

I used a guy (Australian) based in the midlands (south of Birmingham) to collect my Bridgeport from darkest Kent (Ashford) and deliver to Suffolk. He used a smallish lorry with a hiab. He drove from the midlands starting quite early, did the pick up and delivered to me near Bury St Edmunds by 15:30. He unloaded it into the entrance of my garage without fuss or drama. He is a one man operation so if you need a specific day it might be worth early contact. He regularly advertises on eBay (just looked and could not find the original ad) so might be worth a look.

Mine was supplied very well packaged, the scales were in one box (quite thick cardboard) individually separated with foam dividers. The hardware and display were in a separate box with bubble wrap around. This was the second lot I've had directly from China and both have been well packed.

I bought a 3 axis set from china earlier this year. All works fine and seems accurate enough. Needed to make some bracketry though as the stuff supplied was not to my liking. Got caught for tax but still much cheaper than buying UK stock (which is probably from China anyhow).

The reverse (inward) cone idea works well. I used a Tecalemit grease gun which has such a fitting and converted it for oil. If you introduce a thin piece of material (cotton) between the nipple and the cone it does not leak at all and the oil pressure pushes the little ball in to allow the oil to pass. As long as your oil can produces enough pressure it should work.

I bought a S7 backplate from one of the well known suppliers a few years ago. When attempting to put it on the lathe it showed exactly the same characteristics (screwed on a little then bound up tight). I measured it with a pitch gauge and all seemed OK size wise. Eventually I borrowed a 1 1/8* x 12 Whitworth tap from a work colleague and ran that through. Worked a treat and the chuck with the new plate screwed on well just like all the others. Whilst the tap did not seem to remove a great deal of metal it was quite tight to get through.

Not sure if the round head without slot/hex is available, but if they are you could cut a slot across the threaded end and use a screwdriver to hold it whilst tightening. If you use a longer bolt than is required you can chop the slotted bit off afterwards (assuming you have access). I know you can get countersunk bolts that then have a smooth head cap screwed into them (usually used for mirror fixings and suchlike).

A bit of old rubber matting or cushion flooring would be my choice, I'd steer clear of anything metal. Just ensure any cooling ducts are not blocked.

Any degreaser will work, but in these health an safety days using petrol whilst smoking a woodbine is probably not a good option. I use white spirit as I have a few bottles kicking about and I prefer the smell to that of paraffin (kerosene).

Electrolytic (galvanic) corrosion caused by two dissimilar metals being in close contact. Basically one becomes the anode & one the cathode, the anode gets eaten causing the deposit which sticks the bolt in the hole.

If you are OK with metric 4mm is close to 1/8", 0MAAOxyq5NRDqA5">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-Short-Link-Chain-Stainless-Steel-316-Marine-Grade-No-Rusting-Polished-Finish/350188454511?hash=item5188dbc26f:g0MAAOxyq5NRDqA5

I have 2 of them, one driving the main motor on the Bridgeport & one driving the X powerfeed. Both work fine and were very easy to set up. They have an internal fan so make sure there is plenty of free flow of air and protect them from swarf (I put mine in the original box that held the 3 phase electrical gubbins and vented the back with a mesh).