Member postings for Ron Laden

Nice work Jason, it looks like the sleeves you have fitted are steel, obviously no need for them to be bronze or brass..?

Ron

I have the SX2P shimmed with pieces of feeler gauge it has changed a tad since I trammed it, currently it is 0.025 mm in Y from front to rear of table and 0.04 mm in X across 175mm.

I,m happy with that for what I do, most of the parts I make are well inside of those dimensions.

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/12/2020 07:08:58

Yes I shimmed mine with cut pieces of feeler gauge and I guess I was lucky in that I have only needed to shim the two front pads.

My column was leaning forward and I found that a pair of 0.005" shims corrected that error, the shims (20mm long) where fitted along the Y on the outside of the bolts. I then found that the column was leaning left in X so changed the right hand shim to 0.002" which was too much and went for 0.003" this put both the X and Y quite close. You will know that tramming with shims is a lot of trial and error and I finally arrived at 0.003" front right and 0.005" front left but in a L shape running down the side in Y and across the front in X. The two rear pads are not shimmed at all.

Out of interest I just checked to see if things have settled and I have as near as damn 0.001" in Y across 135mm and 0.0015" across 175mm in X, I,m quite happy with that for the work I do.

Ron

Just a thought but have you considered that even if you could get the column/base connection completely rigid that the chatter problem is coming from somewhere else. Could it be flex in the column itself, the head to column connection, the cut speed, feed, depth etc..?

I have only experienced chatter on my SX2P when I have got the set up wrong with the right settings it is fine.

With regards to the base/column fixing you know the shim sizes and positions to achieve alignment plus you know that you have a tapered gap across the shims. I think Jason's suggestion is a good one in applying epoxy and tighten the bolts to achieve alignment with the epoxy filling the tapered gaps, sounds good to me.

If you want cosy then here it is, my shop all 6' 6" x 6' 6" of it. Its all I have but it works somehow, I guess a case of it having to.

I think Loctite claim 638 is good to a gap of up to 0.25mm - 0.010"

Dont know how true that is. 

Edited By Ron Laden on 16/12/2020 07:57:39

Edited By Ron Laden on 16/12/2020 07:58:32

Morning Jason,

I am putting together a shopping list as my metals stock is running low, so I thought it made sense to add whats needed for the CHUKY. I printed off a set of drawings and the BOM plus have read through your build guide and am happy with all of that, the drawings and guide are excellent as usual.

The only thing I am going to try is to get by with no silver soldering, I am still not really geared up for it, I know, I know I should be by now but I,m not. I thought I would try and machine the shutter as a one piece from some flat bright steel bar I have. The bearing support I thought a turned base ring and a part turned/part milled upstand (shape may be slightly different) and a rectangular top pad all of which fixed together with small loctited csk screws.

I will also use the Muncaster wheel and take it down to 108mm as you suggest.

Looking forward to it.

Ron

Morning Jason that turned out well, certainly has a cast look about it and also looks a weighty wheel even at 4 inches, did you choose steel to save all the mess in using iron.

Ron

I assume you just added the gas strut mod as it is what most SX2 owners do me included. I am also guessing that you didn't come across this problem with the spring arm as you had not done that much milling before changing to the strut..?

Assuming the above is correct why not put the spring arm back on and test to see if the spring gives the same problem, it would be interesting to know.

Hi Jason,

You certainly have a way of finding interesting engines, another good project I think.

Is this like the twin CHUKY in that it benefits from a larger bore i.e. will it be larger than 24mm.?

Reading the link I thought it interesting that the crank sleeve bearings have the split clamp fitting for axial adjustment, I have not seen that before or is it quite common and used on other engines.

Will look forward to following this one and the twin CHUKY of course.

Ron

You could alway make the hull from strips of brown packing paper and pva glue it works great, I've done it..

Hi Jason

From memory I think the Perseus 4 inch flywheel casting is the one used on the Jowett. I do have a spare wheel that's used on the Muncaster (bought two) but I guess it may just look a bit big at 4.5/8" what do you think..?

Ron

Thanks Jason for the pointer to Pheonix, appreciated.

Ron

Hi Jason

I have just found and had a quick read through your thread on the 24mm single cylinder CHUKY and that has gone on the "to do" list straight away. I really like the look of it plus it's a flame licker which will be something different for me. It also comes with the bonus of your excellent build thread, drawings and a BOM which is really helpful.

I think you probably no I am a big fan of making from bar stock (given the cast look) so its ideal. Looking at the video its a really nice runner and I do like the sound of it, really good.

Just as a side track would you happen to remember the Maroon colour you used on the base, it wouldn't be Crimson Lake by any chance..? its just that I am trying to find that colour in satin finish aerosols for the 22 loco.

Many thanks

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 06/12/2020 13:12:50

I think Jason's suggestion of using the machine for a while before making any modifications is a good one. I used mine for some time before changing from the original spring to a strut and although it was quite bit heavier in one direction it never gave any problems.

If there is one mod that is worth doing straight away it is the fitting of a 3 axis DRO, again you can get by without it but it makes operation and setting up so much easier.

Ron

Thanks Jason I may well have a go at the CHUKY but yes I have to finish the Muncaster, actually it is very close to finished. Once I have got the main detail done on the loco and get down to the small detail I will get back onto the Muncaster.

Ron

I fitted a Nitrolift strut GS8-18-300-350 to my SX2P, 300mm travel rated to 120 N. I went with 120 N simply because it balanced the head feeling equal in both directions, made up and fitted a vertical extension bar to allow for the extended travel.

Seems to work well enough as I have had no issues whatsoever.

Ron

Sorry Jason/Graham I should have read the full thread which I now have.

Ron

That's a decent size engine with twin 42mm bore, I guessed about 50mmm stroke which comes out at about 140 CC (I think) that's a good size.

Morning Jason, the castings look good and the lettering to, the flywheel looks very clean also.

I asked about the size of the engine which you told me but I should have asked what the bore size is.

Ron