Member postings for David Canham

Hi Mike and others.

I was at the show on Friday. Got there just before 10 and stayed until 4.30.

I always try and make the most of these shows by talking to as many knowledgeable people as possible and i can stand and look at some of those loco's for ages. I also liked the fact that there was something for the youngsters with the Lego table and radio controlled trucks. I will bring my grandson next year as he will be nearly six by then.

I must say that i am very disappointed that the likes of Warco et al were missing. It would even be nice if Arc Euro were there to support us, the people who keep them in business.

I feel that we are all in this together, and this hobby of ours can be expensive.. I am sure that trading space is not cheap but even if they only break even then they really should make the effort and turn up.

If this state of affairs continues then more and more people will stop coming and kill the show completely.

Come on traders, step up to the plate.

All the best.

David.

A few new photo's of the sleeve to have a look at. I did polish the end to see if there was a join between the internal diameter and the flat section but there is nothing obvious.

The drift slot is also longer than a standard sleeve's slot.

Note the hole in the side, most odd.

All the best,

David.

Hi DiogenesII, how indeed were they made. I am back at the works tomorrow and will see if there is a wedge slot at the back.

Thanks Michael,

I think i'll keep this a paper weight if as you say it has an Armstrong taper.

David

Hi people,

I was sorting through some taper shank drills and sleeves in a workshop that i help to maintain. I found them in an old filling cabinet in the corner of the works.

There were some good drills in the assortment, some up to 2" in diameter and either Dormer or Presto so worth a few quid.

Then i came across the sleeve as pictured. At first i thought it was full of crud but it actually has a flat section inside the taper.

I have never seen that before and so i thought i would share it with you clever people.

So, is it a drill sleeve or something else.

Cheers, David.

Thanks Brian, will do.

David.

Thanks Chris,

Ian, i think i will stick to an oil as suggested. The people that own the lathe do have a 5Lt drum of 32 grade hydraulic oil.

If i oil a grease point there is probably less of an issue than if i grease an oil point, lets hope so anyway.

David.

Hi Chris,

I am one post above you also with zero input so i thought i'd say hello. Good luck with your model engineering

David.

Hi People,

Can anyone help with the oil / grease points on a Ward 3A Capstan.

I am helping to clean and re adjust the lathe and it has a lot of possibly grease nipples on it. But, if it's any thing like my Super 7 then most of what look like grease points are in fact for oil.

I have tried the internet but there isn't much out there. Any help would be appreciated.

David.

I thought it was just the outer skin that may be a problem and once through all would be ok.

I must depend on a lot more variables. Cooling rate, quality of material, thickness of material...

David.

Thanks Mick and Jason. I remember before i cleaned the base up prior to putting it in the lathe that there were two lugs in the same position as the more grey area at one end, that must be where it was poured from.

I had taken off 1 mm from that face so the hard spots can be quite deep on thin castings. All good stuff to know.

Thanks guys, David.

Hi people,

I have just started my 10 V and not having machined cast iron before i would like to know what the different colours that have shown through after turning are.

It didn't feel as though i had hit any hard spots.

Cheers, David.

Hi Steve,

i am also quite new to model engineering but have been in the steel fabrication game most of my working life so am used to heavy duty band saws and such like.

I have recently purchased the Warco vertical / horizontal band saw and i have to say that for the price, around £300.00, it is not too bad a machine. Sure it is made down to a price and the frame legs are a bit flimsy but the bed and bandsaw frame are quite sturdy castings.

What i like is that you can put a bar in and start the cut and leave it to cut through. The weight of the frame makes the cut automatic. When the cut is through it auto turns off as well.

David.

Hi Keith,

You have just given me the last piece in the jigsaw, open up the joint gap a bit to allow for flow due to the lead.

Many thanks to you all.

David.

Fantastic stuff guys.

So Sifbronze is a pretty versatile rod, i am glad i got hold of some from a previous employment.

Brian, the job i am going to use it on is the drop arm mod from your book so it is quite appropriate to have you involved.

Thank you all so much.

David.

Hi John,

very true but it was the way the material reacted when i did a trial MMA weld and it was very porous that makes me think there could be lead in it.

Thanks Thor,

From what i have heard from you guys it should be fine. Time to give it a go i think.

Thank you people.

David.

Hi Mr Vintage,

Sounds like Sifbronze is ok to use then.

Thanks.

Hi Guys,

My issue is that i need to braze two steel items together. One of the pieces is en3b but the other is definitely free machining, i checked it by trying to run an arc weld on it and it bubbled up nicely.

I have just re read the book by Keith Hale on brazing but cannot find anything definitive apart from a sentence that says it is inadvisable to use a silver based brazing rod due to the lead in the free machining steel.

I do however possess some Sifbronze No 1 rods and sifbronze flux powder. Would this be suitable and what sort of joint gap are we looking at.

The en3b is a 6mm thick plate with a hole in to take a 9mm Dia rod shouldered out to 12.7.

Cheers, David.

Hi Brian,

Silly old David, of course it is just to drop the banjo so as you say no great sweat on materials.

I will start to look out for the other gears as well so once fitted the drop link can stay there should i need the extra room.

Thanks, David.

Hi Brian,

Thanks for getting involved. Your method is certainly the easiest / simplest way to go.

May i just ask, with the new drop arm that is needed, are the pins for the gears on the arm made of anything special / hard or just en3b or similar.

Regards,

David.