Member postings for David T

There is no speed controller fitted.

Thanks all for the replies, I will try the capacitor as suggested and go from there

Hi everyone,

SWMBO has just bought herself an Emco Unimat SL1000. The trouble is, the motor is tripping the RCD. It is not tripping instantly, so it’s not the in-rush, but it trips after 2-3 minutes of running. By the time the RCD trips the motor is warm to the touch, even running no-load. The trip is bypassing the circuit MCB and hitting the master RCD, so it’s a leakage not an overload.

The motor is a 70W, 240v single phase brushed motor. I’ve dismantled the motor and cannot see any obvious faults in the wiring. Using a multimeter I’ve found there is good continuity between the Earth pin and the casing, and open-circuit between Earth and live / neutral (I have no means of doing a proper insulation test of the windings). I’ve tested the motor in two different sheds (so two different RCDs), and with everything else unplugged to rule out the combined effect of a secondary leakage.

Can anyone offer any advice please?

Thanks

I’ve noticed a lot of “survey flights” too, very curious.

Might the “calibration patterns” out of Brize be air-to-air refuelling ops?

Definitely a Globemaster, but it turns out it was doing touch-and-go’s, so I may have just seen the same one twice.

Did I just see an RAF Globemaster go into Southend airport??

Shortly followed by a second one

Edited By David T on 31/03/2020 14:32:21

I must admit I put a rubber teat on the hook end after repeated injuries

Sounds like the one described by LH Sparey in The Amateur’s Lathe?

Set?

Hardness may well have something to do with it. Our application includes securing a crimp to maintain electrical continuity, so a relatively soft material is involved. I don't know if Nordlock were ever contacted to begin with as they were introduced before I moved into my current job.

As I don't have a quick-change toolpost, just a four-way, I made a dedicated post for boring bars. It is simply a lump of cast iron, bored and reamed in situ. There's a 1/2" hole and an 8mm hole to suit the bars I use. The securing screws are offset and and push against a bevelled pad (cotter?) that bears on the bar.

We’ve trialled those at work in lieu of a Nylock nut, but without huge success. I suspect that may be due to our application though as it is a little........ perculiar. I find Nylocks to be quite reliable though.

It just applies tension, and the housing is only adjustable to account for different pulley diameters. BCA's only literature states that the correct tension is achieved when around 1/2" of the sliding shaft is exposed (naturally that assumes that the original spring is in use).

I'm watching this topic with interest. As the owner of a largish bench drill and a smallish mill, I've often wondered the same thing.

Completed (mostly) building my dividing head. Having said that, I've got a random dividing plate that SWMBO picked up on a whim; at some point I'll make up a worm attachment for it. Now if only I could remember why I needed a dividing head in the first place...............?

When I used to use a front-mounted tool I always aligned it with a dial gauge. I must admit though, since getting a rear toolpost I've never checked it

Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:14

Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:39

I have two single fluorescents in the workshop; never had a problem with nuisance RCD trips, and never noticed a stroboscopic issue either. Surely any stroboscopic effect would be limited to harmonics of 50Hz though? So any stroboscopic effect may lie dormant for years until one one day something just happens to spin at the required RPM?

That is spectacular!

Jib?? I've always pronounced it the other way!! Oh, the shame, the shame!!!

+1. I recently used a boring head on the lathe to bore out this banjo, despite having a milling machine (jig borer, in fact!). The lathe's auto-feed made this job far easier than doing it on the mill.

I agree with the comments regarding a clamping kit. I made a handful of clamps as per Harold Hall's instructions, and they cover most of my clamping needs. An angle plate is also very useful here. On odd occasions I do also use a vice; mine is one of the precision toolmaker's types from Arc (usual disclaimer etc etc).

I should also point out that I started out with just a lathe, no mill. My first clamps were made on the lathe, for clamping work down to the cross slide etc. The simple clamps encouraged by HH can be made with nothing more than a drill and a tap. Slots are a luxury!