Member postings for Jon Lawes

My workshop is home to good intentions, such as being tidy one day.... so you can't see it!

I use a cheap chinese one with LEDs built into the lens. It's been excellent for inspecting the inside of boilers prior to purchase. It comes with a handheld display. I think I got it from Banggood.

I think the selling point of the PD was the controlability, and being completely automatic. He seemed quite proud of it all I recall!

My great-uncle has a company who makes exactly those chain oilers. He makes them in his workshop; he does the machining and his wife does the electronics I believe. He was a keen motorcyclist, and only hung up his leathers within the last few years. Not bad bearing in mind he was old enough to get his first motorcycle during the second world war.

They are called PD Oilers I think. I won't post a link as I don't wish to get the post blocked for advertising, but it's a quick google away to their site.

I've no idea how well they work, just have the familial connection.

Hi Chris and Welcome.

My personal opinion follows:

1) Be realistic in your expectations. To complete a locomotive can take years. To get the skills in the first place is not quick either. Don't expect to be steaming this a week next thursday.

2) Don't go straight into making parts for the locomotive. Try some smaller apprentice pieces first. I quite like Stuart stationary engines, I built a 10H to start. I look back at that poor rough thing and see the start of my journey. I'm not much better now, but refining skills takes a lifetime.

3) Watch some youtube videos on the subject, such as Quinn Dunki and Keith Appleton. Both are very different engineers with different goals in mind, but its a broad hobby.

4) Be aware that there are lots of ways of achieving things, and if you ask three model engineers their opinions I doubt you will get duplication (for example the engineers I mentioned in 3) seem loved and hated in equal measure depending on who you ask).

5) Remember this is supposed to be fun. Count Rivets to get the perfect details if that is your thing, or concentrate on something which is more simple but less prototypical, either way enjoy it.

6) If you have a question, its always worth using the search function on the forum first. You will probably find the same thing has been asked many times before.

7) If you can, join a model engineering society. Mine has been so supportive and helpful, I think I would still be staring at castings if it wasn't for them.

Whatever you choose to do, the very best of luck.

Brilliant, thank you. Thats the bunny.

Could I please request some assistance in finding a source for this material please? There are a few scraps for sale on an auction site at the moment but I am making at least three boilers in the next couple of years and find this makes a good grate material so would like to buy a decent sized piece. Last time I bought it I think from Reeves but they didn't cut it to size very well and it was never quite right.

In the event the picture doesn't work for some reason the material is a stainless grate consisting of V shaped bars allowing the ash to fall between them unimpeded. I've seen similar grating at work in our computer halls on the floor but as it is aluminium it wouldn't be any use. It appears to be welded together.

photo of grate

Thank you,

Jon.

The dome looks Stuartish.

**LINK**

I've worked with a few 'Squippers over the years, an under appreciated trade. They can turn their hand to anything.

I slit all my slot headed screws with a hacksaw; I'm not in a hurry as it's not commercial work, just for my pleasure, and the end results tend to be pretty good even with me at the helm.

Model engineering! This warms the soul.

Roughly where in the country are you? I'd be happy to give some guidance if local.

I'm mainly filled with jealousy that I've only seen a few of the models mentioned myself.

As per the title, What is the finest model engineering you've seen? Specific examples please rather than "the work of Cherry Hill".

I would like to volunteer Pierre Scerri's Ferrari 312.

**LINK**

It's easier to complain than help I guess. These magazines are a product of our hobby, a very niche little subject. We are standing idle in a sinking rowboat complaining that no-one else is bailing out the water.

"We all have a book in us".

I imagine every single person who has commented on this thread has a good level of knowledge on one subjet at least that they could share in a model engineering magazine article. Our hobby is dwindling, so the pool of authors is getting smaller. We can all do our bit by offering our skills for a few quid.

I've lost a few really interesting model engineer friends over the past few years. I wish I could chat with them again and enjoy the benefit of their experience. If anyone wishes their legacy to be helping out other model engineers with their expertise, this is a win/win opportunity to do so and support the magazines which, if the posts above are to be believed, are starting to struggle for content.

One last suggestion from me, if you have the width you could use two belts half the width of the original, then place the spliced joints 180 degrees from each other. When the glued part is under the most tension it would be next to a section of unjoined belt.

I wonder if a long diagonal splice might work? It means the split section might actually be split over a length which partially wraps around the toothed pulley, and you will have more area to apply the rubber adhesive. You could then apply a patch over the back of the belt covering the whole thing.

To be honest I'm not over confident but you don't have much to lose by trying it.

I work on flight simulators myself (for another three weeks at least before I change jobs), but for the Navy/FAA. Is that one of the old FlyBe sims? We took some of their staff when that all collapsed.

Let's not turn this thread into a mirror of the other one. I can choose to stop reading one where people are arguing away, but if it overspills into others it gets tedious for all, whichever side of the fence you sit.