Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Since it doesn't have a flat face you can't simply put a DTI against the side and travel the carriage.

You might simply turn a part with it and measure the diameters both ends.

I have one of those too, they are not at all common.

Looks like you have a bit of wear in the long ways and they would benefit from a light scrape. Luckily these machines were very evenly but looking at the smear marks on your ways just a go-over with a scraper will improve your oil retention and limit stick-slip in the table.

It;s a shame about the busted infeed handwheel but at least it's not the table traverse one. If you have the bits it should be a fairly easy repair.

Do you have any other bits apart from what's in the photos? Mine came with internal grinding head and a small steady rest.

GearDXF is free software Jason.

https://www.forestmoon.com/Software/GearDXF/

I note that the newest version now outputs .STL files.

Probably GearDXF. Will produce a cad drawing of any supported gear you specify which you can then open and print out.

There was a fairly well done comparison video some while back that found the opposite to be true.

I second Peak4's advice ditch the HP and get a Brother. I have a MFC-6940DW at home and another at work. Both of them work flawlessly (and wirelessly). Can print and scan both sides at A3 you can also print direct from Android and Iphone to the printer.

A guy at work has the model above or one very close to it and I hear him cursing having to swap paper sizes. The one I have has separate drawers to hold different size paper.

Well it will and to be honest if a bit of regular maintenance/adjustment gives you results that you're satisfied with then that's all that matters.

The only reason I mention it is because the cure doesn't fit the symptoms, so if another person comes along (as it seems is likely to happen) it would be wrong for them to get the impression that such a fault is likely to be caused by a poorly fitted gib, and certainly not any by lash in the cross slide screw and nut.

Hard to figure how either of those two things would produce that regular pattern along the length. Personally I think that the root cause of the markings must still be there, but the symptoms were exacerbated by the poor fitting gib or it's need for adjustment.

You're not getting a timesert onto that there's not enough meat. If it were mine I would make a hardened drill bushing and put a 6mm slot drill down it until all of the bolt was drilled out, then I would simply use a longer bolt to pick up the remaining thread.

First one is 2BA

Second is probably 6-36

Last one is 6BA

Best to avoid brass for gib strips. It's generally a poor choice, it wears fast and gets very grabby when the oil is squeezed out. Bronze is good, steel also, cast iron very good.

I've been thinking about Lathejack's solution and it seems to me that there may be a simpler (but much less eloquent) solution if you don't perhaps have the facility to do the work that he has done to cure his own lathe's issue.

You could blue up the tops of the teeth on both the worm and the worm wheel then run the lathe up and down under power feed allowing the feed shaft to turn at least 22 times in each direction (so that the wormwheel does 1 full turn). Then inspect the blued-up tops to see if any blue is rubbed off and determine if any eccentricity in the worm or bend in the feed shaft is causing the teeth to bottom out (which will tend to try to lift the saddle). If you find that the blue has rubbed off on both or either, just chuck them up and skim 10 thou off the tops. The worm will still run eccentric but it won't affect the operation and the ridges in the work should disappear.

Rather more difficult to remedy would be if it's not bearing on the tips but on the pitch line (which is where gear contact should be). That would require re-cutting of the worm or wheel.

Good info from Lathejack, and it ties in with the issue only occuring with power feed.

Do you have a mag mount and dial gauge? If so, set the mag mount on the top of the saddle near the front and left and put the dial gauge to read off the front flat way (the tailstock flat way). Make the saddle move under power feed and watch to see if the dial gauge moves up and down regularly as the saddle moves along. If it does, you've found your problem.

No, not really, unless someone could check it's flatness for you. What is flat for a granite work surface could be way off flat for a piece of metrology.

What you could do is put your cross slide on your work surface and see if it clacks on any corner when struck, then turn it 90 degrees and see if the clacking moves with the corner. That would tell you that you definitely have an issue with the part but isn't much use beyond that, and even then it might give you a false reading.

The last piece looks like ally but the first one looks ike steel. Ally is usually much more forgiving of such things because the cutting forces are usually lower. That said, the lines are still there.

Try bumping up the speed and putting a decent cut in on ally. You'll probably get a beautiful finish.

Do you have a surface plate handy? If you do, remove the cross slide and put it flat on the plate. Hinge it around by pushing one corner and see whare it turns. I think you might have a warped or poorly made slide.

Where are you? If it's North Kent I'll take a look at it for you.

As hopper says above the lash in the screw is inconsequential. You should always make sure you're taking the cut with the screw turned to bring the slide towards the part, so cutting the OD your last turn should be clockwise, cutting the ID anti-clockwise (unless you're doing something like internal threading on the back edge of course).

If locking the cross-slide cures the problem then the issue is in the cross slide ways. You could try snugging the gib up a tiny bit but I think that probably it needs a bit of scraping. You might try removing the cross slide and setting it flat on a surface plate then go round tapping down on the four corners and ses if any of them have a gap.

If it's not rack and not screw there's not much else it can be.

I have seen a couple of machines of this class (not warco specifically, but same grade of machine) where the tpaer bearings were too tight on the spindle. You coud not get proper adjustment because the bearing would stick then jump with a loud crack when adjusted. They would go from too loose to too tight in one moment. I had to ease the fit of one of them to let the bearing move with a lot less sticktion then they would adjust up just nice.

Get a spring/firm hold caliper and set it to span across 5 or 10 of those ridges. Now take the caliper and offer it up to the rack teeth and then the leadscrew teeth. See if the grooves match either of them.

If that was a gear with an eccentric bore you would likely have more pronounced grooves on the half-turn where the gear is binding and less/no grooves on the half-turn where it loses engagement. You grooves look evenly spaced and even depths.