Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Strange way of indexing on a taper though. If the dimples are not drilled perfectly, it could prevent the taper from seating. I'd agree it's well made and for a particular machine not a one-off item going by the black crinkle finish.

You can drill it with a masonry bit 4.5/5mm but without the hammer action. I did this to drill the holes in a power hacksaw blade to mount it in a normal hacksaw frame for cutting vee way relief slots.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 22/01/2022 18:44:29

Mine ran ok on iso32. HAve you looked at checking the oil pressure and perhaps adjusting it? Mine was an older model but it had a pressure regulator on the top of the pump.

Mike if you're anywhere near me in Kent I would gladly spare you a couple p of hours to set you on the road. I did this for a guy a couple of weeks ago he was trying to scrape in a small milling machine bed. After a few hours basic tuition he's now getting great results.

One thing though if you want to make a gauge to check your plate what are you going to use to make your gauge with? Again if you were near to me I could check your plate for you no problem.

The gearbox top on mine was stuck down solid with red gasket sealer.

However you clean them unless youuse emery they will be more usable than they are now. They may not wring but you won't be able to measure the difference even with a micrometer.

I'd be tempted to give them a couple of minutes dip in citric acid and rub with a coarse cloth. Wash and dry them thoroughly.

As far as the machine is concerned there's no difference between accellerating the spindle to x rpm and decellerating it from x to a stop in the same timeframe. The mechanical loads are the same.

I get it moving by slacking the bolts a coils of turns and giving them a crack with a small hammer and drift. Once the gap opens loosen another turn and go again.

One thing not to do is pry the halves apart with a hard edged prybar or screwdriver. If you bruise the edge you might cause the chuck fave to run out. Use aluminium shims if you have to pry the halves apart.

Ah, then no you won't get the same result doing it on his lathe as you will on yours regardless of how carefully he sets it up.

As for the register - well you have the front face and the shoulder register. I don't even use the inside register usually I just turn the face true, fit the chuck up and clock it in on the OD. If the time comes when I have no choice but to hold a part in the 3-jaw and that part has to be clocked in, I can loosen the chuck on the backplate and clock the part in then tighten it up, the only inconvenience being that I must re-set the body to run true again afterwards.

Put simply the job you're doing would be much better done on the lathe that it's working on. If you're nervous about doing it yourself why not ask yuor friend to pop round and do it, or eve ask here?

Pete

I would agree with Nick except to say that if your friend can turn the thread, spindle OD register and end register on the backplate on his lathe you can then screw it onto your lathe spindle and turn the chuck register in place which is the only bit that benefits from being turned on the lathe it's to be used on.

3 phase motors can plug reverse but it puts a lot of stress on the machine both mechanically and electrically if done at speed so only do it at faily low RPM and not if it's turning a large load.

My lathe has instant-reverse (It's DC) but it has an anti-plugging relay that won't allow it above 200rpm (I think). It brakes the motor and then reverses it when it gets slow enough.

A pic of your lathe and it's setup?

Having 6 speed steps suggests you have a countershaft setup. I wonder if all you need is a different pulley combination driving it.

I'm a R8 collet man, but my mill is limited in quill size and table clearance so I like to minimise the amount of overhang.

I think I wouldbe giving that 10 seconds with the blow torch then having a go, if you could do it without scorching nearby paint. A quick blast of heat works wonders with long-tight screws and bolts.

Your number will already be shared around google because of the other people that have it in their phones and use any of the caller ID apps. I was on site one day and the manager (who I had never met before and never clled either) said 'call me so I have your number'. I called the number he gave me and my name popped up on his phone.

It's something you cannot prevent and cannot un-do.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 02/01/2022 13:51:18

Are you sure it's a 6" chuck not a 160mm?

The set on ebay listed as "Hard Jaws American Style to suit Bison 160mm Chuck" should be direct fitment for your chuck. Try sending the seller a message I have dealt with him and he was good at responding. He might even take an offer since they have been listed quite some time.

France has plenty of nuclear the only problem is the 1GW interconnect that was damaged by an exploding transformer and subsequent fire last year. It's stil not back in service.

Stick it in your battery drill chuck and offer it up to your bench grinder at the point angle. A very light lick on the grinder will restore the point.

On the Optidrive it's either off or on. Parameter P-52 is the setting 0 for off and 1 for on. I don't know about later models.

As Rob says first check that it turns parallel by turning a part held only in the chuck. If that is acceptable, then it's time to look at the saddle's cross-slide way closest to the chuck.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 30/12/2021 17:13:21