Member postings for Steve Crow

This might sound a simple question I've not been able to find an answer to it on the 'net.

When collet manufacturers etc. quote a runout figure, are the talking about the total deviation (the span of a DTI needle swing) or the deviation from the median.

I suspect the latter - it sounds better.

Cheers

Steve

Thank you for all the suggestions and offers of help. I called Macc Models this morning and they kindly offered to help me out.

Steve

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have neither angle grinder or jigsaw and my lathe and mill are Sherline benchtop machines with a 10mm bore.

As I don't usually need to cut stuff of this size, I've not even got a suitable vice!

My workshop is geared to the horological side of things but I want to make some ER collet chucks.

I moved to Margate from London a few months back and have spent most of the time getting my workshop ready.

Steve

I need 3 or 4 lengths of 1" EN1A round bar, each about 40mm long.

Due to a strain injury, I'm temporary unable to hacksaw steel of that thickness.

Does anyone know of a supplier who will cut to length?

I used to have a mate with a power saw but I've recently moved away.

Cheers

Steve

I don't need a taper or a tang. I need a 5/8" straight shank for my tool holder.

Here is Sherline's 8mm watchmakers adaptor.

I'm going to be using mini nuts as well - an even finer thread, M19x1.

I think I'll get my hacksaw out and use mild steel.

Thank you Howard for a sensible answer.

I asked about the cast iron just because I had a suitable size lump.

I intend to buy the nuts as well. I do have some EN1A but I wanted to avoid getting the hacksaw out!

Steve

Thank you for one of the most unhelpful posts I've seen.

Maybe you think it was a stupid question but it was a genuine query.

I'm not making a commercial collet chuck. It's for a Sherline bench top lathe.

If you can't answer informatively and politely, don't bother.

Steve

I need to make one to fit the adjustable tailstock tool holder on my Sherline lathe.

I want to make a ER16 collet holder for my tailstock.

I have a piece of meehanite bar just the right size for it.

Is this a wise choice of material? Would I be better of saving it for a better application and use mild steel instead?

Cheers,

Steve

Had the very same problem this morning.

As Bo'sun said, I called Ian and everything is sorted.

Has anyone tried using dial silvering powder on nickel silver?

If so, did the result differ from brass?

Cheers, Steve

I have made and hardened around 80 M1.6 screws which I intend to black polish (or as near as I can get).

My question is, what temper to take them to?

G. Daniels recommends dark blue before polishing but a lot of components he refers too need a bit of "springiness" so that makes sense.

I would have thought that the harder the steel, the better its ability to take on a polish. I'm wondering if I might get better results with a light-straw temper or even none at all.

As my screws are for clock components and have no lateral load, it shouldn't matter if they are on the brittle side.

Cheers, Steve

I just looked at the pivot files. Wow. I recently bought some fine escapement files for crossing out and that was painful but these are on another level!

I've been buying Swiss files for 10 years from Cousins and the prices have increased alarmingly. Saying that, Cousins is still the cheapest for Vallorbe etc.

If you ordered the "refreshingly rusty" steel, please let me know your views on it.

Cheers, Steve

Thanks all. I might go for the German MS58 sheet as I need 1mm gauge for wheels.

I'm going to bear the other stuff in mind for other non-horological projects (maybe a sundial) as the price seems quite good.

Also, this carbon steel could be useful. Ok, it's not going to be as flat as gauge plate but look at the price! Could be good for making tools or springs. The carbon content looks ok.

Cheers, Steve

I've been using Cousins for many years. I'm sure, if I got in touch, they would tell me it was suitable.

What I was looking for was if anyone had used the stuff and comparisons to CZ120.

Has anyone used this as an alternative to CZ120 brass sheet? My usual supplier is out of stock of the thickness I want.

They offer 5 different gauges with only the 1mm being German.

From the website - German manufacture (MS58 brass) or made in China (H62 brass).

It seems that MS58 is the same as CU3 which looks promising.

H62 doesn't seem to have a British equivalent.

Also, they are significantly cheaper than CZ120.

Any thoughts welcome,

Steve

Edited By Steve Crow on 01/04/2023 18:33:38

I want to cut a couple of irregular holes around 2 inch diameter in 3mm ply.

I really don't want to buy any tools for this. I have a selection of piercing saws and I don't mind splashing out on some blades that could do the job.

Has any one any suggestions for something suitable?

Cheers, Steve

Just stumbled on this thread and it prompted me to check out paper thickness using my comparator.

I use black OC papers for smoking and workshop use as they seem the thinnest and don't burn down as quick.

These appear to be just over 25 microns, handy if you're working in Imperial.

The most common rolling paper, the green Rizla, is slightly thicker at 32 microns.

I knew I'd find a use for the comparator one day!

Edited By Steve Crow on 12/02/2023 17:29:25

Edited By Steve Crow on 12/02/2023 17:29:51

The 12BA cheesehead steel screws I've used from Macc Models seem really well made. A light dressing and polishing on the lathe, a slight chamfer on the slot with a stone and they blue up beautifully. British made too, I believe.

Does anyone know of an equivalent in M1.6 and M2.0? I can only find stainless and quite crude ones at that.

I can make my own but the Macc Models ones are so good and I need about 60 or 70 of them.

Also, if anyone has any 10BA cheeseheads, could they measure the head diameter for me as I've been unable to find out?

Cheers

Steve

Edited By Steve Crow on 06/02/2023 18:28:12