Member postings for David George 1

Last night I got my go to rust prevention aerosol out to look at it for more information. This morning it was all over my bench spraying my next prodject and drawings etc. I found that the can had leaked about halfway down like a pin hole in the metal. I presume rusted from the outside from a scratch as the can is at least 20 years old. The spray forms a plastic like coating when dried and prevents rusting etc. Still hsve one more can left. I also have a can of dewatering fluid which you can spray on to anything to get rid of moisture.

David

Hi mouse welcome to the forum. Where are you based as local supliers and groups with knowledge can help also I have been known to help from time to time to show technical skills and lend tools occasionally. The other thing you must have is a tool grinder if you don't have already but make sure it has the correct grinding wheels etc for your use.

David

I have a fly cutter I made when I was an apprentice. It has a 1 inch body with a 1/2" shank with a 1/4" round solid carbide cutter. I use it regularly and now it is roughly 55 years old and still going strong.

David

Being an ink monitor was an inspired elevated position at school only surpassed by the milk monitor position. I was looking forward to that position when our class was moved to a comprehensive establishment and we had to provide our own fountain pen and ink.

David

Aluminium is suitable for one of these. Many are made of aluminium from new.

David

Hi Jason welcome to the forum. Just ask away on here there are not many questions that can't be answered.

David

I use a original ground Morse taper sleeve which I set up true between centers or in the chuck running true. I then mount a finger dial indicator on center height. I run this along the Morse taper sleeve till I get no movement with the clamp bolts slightly loose. I then tighten the bolts and check taper again. Adjust till you get a zero reading. The dial indicator MUST be on center height.

Three wire thread measure.

You can check the flanks of the thread with three wires and a micromiter. I use the shanks of three drills as they are hard and ground usually. You can then check the part you are making against the original or new screw. If using a worn part use a piece which has least or no wear.

David

I have never heard of a LM lathe have you a picture or other information.

David

Hi Wayne welcome to the forum. What are your interests and a rough idea of where you are based helps with local suppliers etc.

David

A selection of my parallels.

I have some round sets of 4 all of the same height about 8mm tall and 20mm tall usefull when holding castings etc. A pair of 1"x1/2" x 9" long a pair of 12mm x 25mm x 150mm long which do most of my heavy work. I have a set of adjustable Starrett parrallel which are useful to measure steps and slots as well as adjusting to support a job. I also have two pair of thin parallels so i can drill a job without hitting the parallels, these are 1mm x 20mm x 75mm long and 1.5mm x 25mm x 75mm long. I also hsve a few other general purpose pairs of parallels of various thicknesses that I have collected over the years. These are all hardened and ground whilst at work for various jobs. The thin pairs of parallels have a tendency to tip so I put a light 12mm diamiter spring between them when in use. You can't have to many parallels.

David

I have been involved in a few large workshops and they were screeded in 40Nm concrete with fibres mixed in for extra strength. These were 40 to 50 mm thick on top of a double mesh concrete base about 300 mm thick. This was left at least a month go cure before the screed was applied. We finnished the surface with an epoxy resin surface paint after another month of setting. The working areas had a rubber mat go stand on about 10mm thick.

David

Hi David when drawing a thread for spiral extrusion  I often find it difficult to draw the thread shape so that there is no overlap and when putting on the radius on the root and crest of the form is there an easy way of doing that without getting a closed loop fault as well.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 09/05/2023 07:54:51

Thanks Neil for putting my efforts out there. I have just used it to make a new Morse 2 spindle for my M Type Myford lathe and with the correct thread full form insert it was so simple to use on all three threads. I hope my projects help and inspire others to make things on there lathes.

David

Thanks Neil for bringing this to my notice. Nice job this is a very useful idea which could be used with modifications on many lathes.

David

Hi Danny welcome to the forum. Ask away we are very helpful on here. Perhaps you may be helpful to others as well on certain subjects. Just ask.

David

You can use the material used for lorry trailor curtains. It is tough flexible and oil proof. When at work there was a HGV service garage nearby and they just gave me off cuts they would throw away.

David

Hi Dalboy you can also remove the anvil and screw and use it to measure step size from a face to diamiter or flat face.

David

I have my go to sets of drills.

The Dormer are split point tin coated tapping size drills. Taping drill size, drill size , and clearance drill for M3 to M6 screws. The second set are Presto 1mm to 10mm size by 0.5 increments and both sets are good lasting quality drill. Sets.

David

Why don't you use phosphor bronze for a bearing which will outlast brass and can be cast if nessesary.

David