Member postings for Neil A

I notice that a "Cuttermaster cutter grinder" has just appeared in the "For Sale" ads on this site. Would this be of any interest to you?

Might be worth a look.

Neil

I have had the same experience with the plastic Hozelok fittings, they last for a while then they don't really work very well at all and leak.

I had replaced some of my fittings with one from Gardena, their premium hose connector, which has outlasted the Hozelok without any problems. Unfortunately they don't make that particular one anymore, only the plastic version, the good one must have lasted too long for sales.

So I shall be looking to get the brass fittings when the others need replacing. Perhaps putting a sleeve inside the hose pipe like the plastic plumbing pipes use for compression fittings would work as well. I must try it when I change the fittings.

Neil

The largest cutter I have ever used on my SX2P is 50mm diameter with 4 APKT1604 inserts, but never at more than 2/3rds of its diameter and then only with modest depths of cut. I use this just to initially clean up the surface, I machine mostly aluminium.

I know that the column on my machine has a slight lean in the Y axis, so if I want a flat surface I use an 8mm diameter cutter and step across between 2 and 4 mm, depending on how flat I want the surface to be. You have to feed in the right direction so that the trailing edge of the cutter does no dig in and cause a more rippled surface.

You just need to not try not to force the machine too much, usually you can tell by the sound it's making if it's happy or not.

Neil

For my SX2P I made the digital speed display that Andrew Whale showed on his website. (Learning Turning Metal MT16) This connects to the socket on the machine. I have found it to be very good and have had no problems with it.

He has the link to the information in the text part of that video, well worth having a look at even if you decide not to go down that path.

Neil

Perhaps I am mistaken, but isn't the old Skefko Ball Bearing Company Ltd our modern day SKF ?

They still manufacture these bearing sizes.

I'm not sure how far maintaining authenticity compares to safe functionality.

Neil

My Machinery's Handbook is an 11th edition, I don't use it very often, perhaps for searching for odd threads, not much else. Would I buy a newer edition? No, it would not get enough use to warrant the expense.

The Zeus charts get used all the time, I had to buy a new one as I manage to lose my original one. I also use an SKF cutting tool handbook quite often.

Neil

I think that you will find that the high tin content will make it a difficult material to machine, certainly carbide would be my choice if I had to machine bell metal.

It is not a material I would consider for making bearings, it is much too hard and brittle. It would have no confirmability to the journal surface.

Most bearing alloys have between 4 and 11% tin, not the 22% of bell metal. it is approaching the composition of Speculum Metal used for telescope mirrors up to the mid 1800's.

Best use for bell metal is probably bells.

Neil

When using Loctite for retaining parts I have always tried to machine the parts to have a very light slip fit and so keep the clearance to a minimum without it having any interference. The adhesive needs to have some thickness to work effectively. The surface finish does not need to be superfine so as to provide a key in both parts.

Depending on the particular grade that you are using cleaning is important. I always use one of the brake and clutch cleaning sprays to remove any oil from the parts regardless of what the TDS says, just to be sure. Any cleaning fluid must be allowed to evaporate completely otherwise the Loctite will not cure properly, usually ends up as a sticky mess if you don't.

I tend to favour 648 for my permanent fits, mainly because this is what I have. I notice that 638 has a higher strength rating, but cures more slowly. Both have a high temperature rating. It will depend on what is available to you and what your particular application requires.

Neil

That is unlucky.

For me, I would choose option 2, leave it as is. The flaw in the bore will not affect the operation of the part. On the side it might be visible. This might niggle at you after a while.

If I were to try a reclamation, I would clean up the surfaces, mask off with one of the proprietary products, then silver solder as Bernard Towers has said.

You will have to see how much it annoys you and take it from there.

Neil

This question was asked a few years ago in 2019, search the forum for Flexispeed and you will find it.

I can only answer for my Flexispeed 2 lathe that was bought from the Norfolk Lathe and Tool Co in the mid 1970's, as this lathe has been made by a number of manufacturers there may be variation in the threads that were used.

On my machine the thread in the three step pulley is 1/4 x 20 UNC. The grub screw is a dog point 3/8" long.

On my machine the gib threads for the saddle, cross slide and top slide are all the same, they are:

For the adjusting screws (outer two screws) 6 - 32 UNC (nominal OD 0.138". The grub screw is a cone point 5/8" long. 1/4" AF hex lock nut.

For the locking screw (centre screw) 4 - 40 UNC (nominal OD 0.110". This is a cap head screw 3/8" long under the head.

I have always oiled the gibs on my machine. It can be difficult to get a consistent tightness on the gibs on the Flexispeed, they were not an absolutely precision lathe. The assembly instructions did give advice on easing any tight spots by carefully using a smooth cut file on the gib side of the dovetail. But I would only do that if you are confident you know what you are doing and then only as a last resort. I still have a tight spot on my Flexispeed so obviously I did not attempt it, too long ago to remember now.

I hope that this helps with your machine, there can be variations, particularly on a second hand machine where you do not know its history. Someone might have modified things to suit their own equipment. Just go carefully.

Neil

I can only think that the cut-outs in the die are some sort of fine adjustment to top surface either to correct for distortion caused by hardening the part or maybe slightly modify the thickness of the part being pressed.

I could be completely wrong, but I can't think of any other purpose as the recess in the mating part seems to be flat bottomed.

It's an interesting question.

Neil

Just out of interest, the pulleys that were supplied with my Flexispeed lathe gave spindle speeds of approximately 1420, 815, 460, 355, 203, 115.

I really only used the top speed for drilling holes, all the turning was done at the lower speeds.

With regard to the power, I found sharp tools were more significant than the actual power available. My safety limiter was using a sightly loose belt from the motor which would slip if I overdid a cut or had a dig in, might be frowned on by some, but it always worked for me.

Neil

My Flexispeed lathe was supplied with 1/4HP 1425 rpm motor when I bought it from the Norfolk Lathe & Tool Company in the mid 1970's. It has been more than adequate for everything I required.

Recently, as a backup, I bought a 1/6HP 1380 rpm motor. At sometime in the future I may swap them over to make the lathe and motor setup a little smaller and less heavy to move around.

Remember, the Cowell lathe, which is a similar size, only has a 90watt (approximately 1/8HP) 1425 rpm continuously rated motor.

It depends what you can find at a reasonable price.

Neil

Thanks for your reply, I thought that I might have missed your write up.

I find honing a tool without altering its geometry can be a little tricky at times, your honing machine looked to the answer to my some what poor efforts.

I shall look forward to seeing the article when it appears.

Neil

Sorry to resurrect an old posting, but did an article on this ever get published?

Neil

Just noticed that the comment I referred to should have been the one from "Not Done It Yet' not "SOD". Obviously my brain was not fully engaged at the time I wrote it.

Neil

Margaret

Just thinking about the tool post stud, ARC do a replacement stud for the Myford lathe which is the sort of thing you are looking for. They don't give any detailed dimensions, but imply that it fits in a 7/16" hole in the top slide. The chances are that it will not be exactly what you need, but something similar could be easily produced.

With regard to the sheared off screws, I have always found that easy-outs have caused me more trouble than just carefully drilling drilling down the centre of the screw with progressively larger drills until I can collapse what is left into the hole using a scriber.

If you do make a mistake, then a Heli-coil type thread insert is a good reclamation. We used them as a standard feature of our original designs in aluminium castings at work.

As the others have said, sit down, take a breath and have a think about it. It's all fixable, just needs a little modification. It has happened to all of us at one time or another, it can be very frustrating.

Hopefully you can get some help from someone or a club close by.

Neil

I have found this thread to be quite interesting as I have been toying with the idea of getting a quick change tool post. After seeing all the comments, particularly the first one from SOD, I think that I will go back to my original scheme of making extra tool posts. Just 2 way rather than 4 way and set each one up with the tools that I will be using. It does not take long to change a complete tool post,

I have already made one for my boring bars. They don't take long to make and they don't cost very much. I'll spend the money on something that is more difficult for me to make, like a collet chuck!

On my little lathe I put the shims under the 4 way tool post rather than the tool, the bigger square shims are easier to handle than little strips.

Neil

I'm glad to hear that it came apart OK in the end.

One thing that I have noticed on my machine is that the modern Z size vee belt is slightly deeper than the old imperial M size, for me this makes it a bit difficult to move the belt onto the biggest groove on the spindle pulley. I keep thinking about changing it to a three groove poly vee belt, but I've not got around to it yet, one day perhaps!

Anyway, enjoy your new machine. I still use mine for small parts.

Neil

It's possible that the grub screw for the large gear has not been tightened on the flat on the spindle but on the round part of the spindle and has raised a burr. Normally it should just slide through.

If all the grub screws have been removed rather than trying to tap it out, hold the large gear and then try rotating the spindle back and forth gently, if it is a burr the steel small gear may smooth it down enough to slide out. I would do this by hand rather than with a mallet, it does not want to be forced unduly. A little oil down the threaded holes might help.

Take your time and be gentle.

Neil