Member postings for Martin Cargill

I'm just back from Turkey (currently self isolating) The Jet2 flight on the way out was full with not a spare seat on the plane........

Dave,

If your anywhere near Fife I have an engine crane and lifting gear. I also have a lathe if you want to make a new handle.

Martin

I have a set of step drills that came from Aldi, I bought them thinking that they would be "disposable" but to my surprise they have lasted well, considering that I use them in the course of my employment. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

I also used to use a tinmans reamer when I worked with a mate repairing Land-Rovers. It was a great tool for making bolt holes line up in bodywork. To make life easier on the hands we used to use it mounted in an old style joiners brace.

Martin

It looks like a dry pump, As Ian Parkin mentioned the oil pumps tend to have steel vanes. The vanes you have should be free to move in their slots. The Felt pad etc is probably a filter to remove worn vane debris from being blown out by the pump. The slotted screw is probably a vacuum valve (the reverse of a pressure valve) to stop it drawing too much vacuum .

Martin

I found one of these at work a week ago. It was lurking under a storage shelf in our store and has probably been under there for 20+ years. We pulled it out today and started to clean it up. To assist us with putting it back to use can anyone help with a copy of the manual for the machine?

Thanks

Martin

We used to install Altendorf saws. Each one used to arrive with a bottle of Schnapps packed inside the saw. Beats Haribo. The trick was trying to find out if the customer knew about it, if they didn't it quietly made it's way into the back of the van.

I recently gained a single axis DRO from a machine that was being modified at work and fitted it to the saddle of my lathe. It reads down to 0.1mm. I find it a great piece of kit when machining any part to length (where your not working to the nearest thou), simply touch the tool on the end of the part, zero the display and then work away until you reach the required length - no stopping for remeasuring etc.

Martin

I lifted one recently using an 2T engine hoist in the 500 kg position (to give it more lift). It lifted high enough to get the lathe onto the bed of my trailer that is 24" high. The lifting straps did have to be very short to help it achieve the lift height required.

Martin

Thank you for all of your thoughts and information gentlemen.

I've been out in the workshop tonight giving the gears a clean up to see what was there. There are four new ( still in bags) 3/4" wide gears that are marked L5 so I assume these are Harrison. There are twelve gears with the double pin holes that I assume are Drummond and two gears without pin holes that I'm guessing are Raglan these are all 1/2" wide. All have the same 14 DP.

Martin

Cross drill the head of the cap screws and drive a small roll pin through it to make a handle. You can put a larger roll pin over either end of the original roll pin in order to make the handle a little larger.

Martin

Just measured one of them, all measurements are imperial

3.36 diameter

45 teeth

0.625 bore

two pin holes 0.18 and 0.2 diameter

inside to inside pin holes 0.77

outside to outside pin holes 1.15

didn't measure the thickness but I would guess at 0.5

Martin

I recently bought a couple of boxes of machine "junk". In amongst all of the bits and pieces appear to be two sets of lathe gear wheels. They are of a strange design and have two pins that provide drive. Anyone have any idea of what machine they might belong to?

Martin

You have answered your own question correctly. A Double pole Double throw toggle switch with a centre off will do what you require. All you have to do is to wire a crossover at the switch (feed the Z1,Z2 to the two centre contacts and wire cross over links between the two pairs of outer contacts and then wire the start winding  to one end of the switch. I assume that the switch shown in your diagram is a centrifugal one to cut out the start winding once the motor has spun up, if so then you don't need to worry about the switch being changed over when the motor is running as the start circuit is already switched out at this point. The motor will only start in the opposite direction once the motor has stopped and has been re started.

Suitable switches can be found on Ebay

A NVR on the incoming supply is a good idea as it protects against an inadvertent restart if the power supply is interrupted.

Martin

Edited By Martin Cargill on 14/06/2020 20:50:06

Been waiting two weeks for a tool that was being delivered by Hermes. Despatched to an industrial estate address Hermes first tried to deliver it on a Saturday !!!. Then the next tracking message was that I had asked for it to be returned to sender ???, I don't know who they asked but it wasn't me. A week later and it has arrived, at the senders address. Not impressed with Hermes as the tool was for a specific job, that I have now had to do by an alternative (much less professional) means.

Assuming its a single phase motor, with a single capacitor start winding, the reversing can be done with a double pole "on/off/on" toggle switch (this assumes that the wiring for the start winding is accessible and not buried inside the motor). This could be combined with a simple NVR contactor/overload for starting/stopping the motor.

Martin

Bore the pulley, push and glue (loctite or araldite) a bush into the enlarged bore and then rebore to suit the new motor shaft. I bushed a pulley on my new (to me) mechanical hacksaw in this manner to allow me to use a single phase motor with a smaller shaft than the original three phase motor.

Martin

I don't know if this would help but one trick we use at work for situations like this is to use valve grinding paste. We use it when we have large threads that stick (because of minor thread damage) and are beyond the realms of the taps/dies or other solutions that we have available. In fact I used this just the other day on the cap of a hydraulic cylinder with a 100 mm dia x 2mm pitch thread.

I tend to use the fine paste and apply it to the threads and then work it gently back and forth until the obstruction clears. Just make sure that you clean all of the paste out of the threads once you have finished.

Martin

Edited By Martin Cargill on 06/05/2020 20:44:22

If your compressor does not have a tank then it will always be playing catch up if your air consumption exceeds the capacity of the compressor. The answer would be to add a tank and set the regulator you have to, say, 100 psi so that the tank gets filled to is "maximum" and then add another regulator on the outlet from your tank set to your 30 psi spraying pressure. You will have to set your compressor running 5 minutes before you start a job to enable the tank to fill. If you don't like the idea of playing with a tank then a suitably rated large bore hose may suffice as a store, some small garage sized compressors use a mounting frame that doubles as an air storage chamber.

Having said all of that it may be easier to investigate the cost of a small garage size unit - it may prove cheaper than the modification of your existing system

The countersunk screws that hold mains electrical sockets and switches together are M3.5. I don't advise removing them from electrical fittings that are in use though.....

Where is the regulator on your setup? If you are using a reservoir at 30 psi it can't contain much air, if the reservoir is storing air at say 100 psi then its holding more than 3 times the capacity.