Member postings for Mike E.

Here's a thought..... Why not make your own ?

I often see metal hip flasks for a couple of pounds in charity shops. Machining a simple drip nozzle replacement cap with an O-ring would make for a handy size oil can.

Although I have many fine quality tools, I never considered that they needed to be put on an Alter. To me there is nothing sacrilegious about using a fine quality item to make a fine quality tool, and yes, I would use a Rolls Royce for towing a plow if I needed to; but I don't, I have a Kubota. I take very good care of my tools and vehicles, but they are there to serve me in life, not me to serve them. Cobbling pipe fittings for a tapping machine would suffice if the need arises, but personally, I would prefer to make something a little more refined if possible.

True reciprocated Love.

Lock it within a couple of thousandths, then carefully stone the ends to fit the sample you wish to duplicate.

Google "riveting aircraft panels".

Not sure about your vertical head, the one on my mill has an MT-2 taper.

Hope you and Durhambuilder work out an equitable swap.

I had a difficult time finding a horizontal arbor for my Tom senior mill. After regularly surfing ebay I finally came across an add for several new ones available which would fit my machine. I took a punt, and am happy with what I received; however, I need to make a new carrier bushing to fit the outboard end of the shaft on my overarm support.

The arbor is INT-30 , has a one inch diameter shaft, and came with a dozen spacers of varying size. There were no manufacturer identification marks, and the price if I recall correctly was about sixty (£60.00) pounds. Here is a photo.

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If clearance is an issue, consider a low profile two piece vice ?

I've seen them available on the Chronos tools site.

I've noticed that many shoe repair shops have computer engraving machines and make plaques along with house number plates as a side line; a walk in service.

Search for Jeweler's files.

It all depends on the function of the parts being attached to one another, but greater thread bearing would lessen the likelihood of unscrewing over time where vibration might be an issue. With longer screws or bolts, one is more likely to notice a part becoming loose while still attached, rather than suddenly becoming loose and falling apart.

Not sure about the spare parts, but my school of thought is that if you have the room, box them up and store them away for awhile until you are sure that they won't be needed. When reselling any machine in the future, usually potential buyers will want all the original parts; I know I would.

Hi Niels,

An MT5 taper should be 37.465mm at the small end, so there should be adequate clearance for sporter and most target barrels.

Average rifle barrel lengths go up to 24", and target barrels as long as 26". Headstocks vary in size, so If you are going to set up an outboard chuck, then figure your measurement from the outside end of the jaws on the chuck, through the headstock, and to a point where your steady rest will support the longest barrel you think you might work on, and then add enough bed length for the tailstock to remain in place.

A 26-27mm headstock bore should be ok for most tapered sporter barrels.

Hope this helps.

Best regards, Mike

Posted by Niels Abildgaard on 18/06/2018 14:43:28:

Hello Mike

Thank You for idea of fore and aft chuck spindle.

What minimum spindle hole diameter for hand and hunting weapon work?

Kind regards

Niels

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 18/06/2018 14:44:18

It depends on what diameter of barrel blanks are available from suppliers. I would say a minimum 1 5/16" spindle hole, which should handle most smallbore target weight and also centerfire calibers you are likely to encounter. If possible, purchase pretapered barrels, as tapering takes hours of time and introduces unwanted stress points along the tube.

When chambering, it is very important to ream slowly, and then STOP when within several thousandths of finish depth, shut the machine off, and let things cool down for a couple of hours before taking the final cut; this will help immensely with getting the chamber depth and headspace correct the first time.

I was into the Benchrest dicipline back in the 1990s, but have been out of the shooting sports game for some time now. I'll post one of my old credentials here for awhile, for consideration of the the merit of my opinions.

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Have a look on the gandmtools.co.uk site. Currently there are several moderate size single phase milling machines which may be of interest , including a Myford VMB.

I would say that the block on top is for an airline to blow swarf away.

There is an attachment for an airline on one of the hold down arms of my Opus 120 filing machine, which can be seen in the photos. This machine uses a ball mount for positioning, whereas I would speculate yours would have used something like the arms from a surface gage to position the air nozzle.

Edited By Mike E. on 06/05/2018 16:41:56

Edited By Mike E. on 06/05/2018 16:43:31

Edited By Mike E. on 06/05/2018 16:44:13

I found this stainless steel rule at Poundland or Poundworld several months ago here in Wales. The edges were very sharp, but smoothed up nicely when stoned. One inch wide, thirty thousandths thick, and forty inches long. Its Imperial on one edge of the scale reading in 16 ths. and the other edge in 10 ths. of an inch. On the reverse side its Metric. Couldn't go wrong for a pound considering they were much more expensive else where. I believe, but not sure, I have seen them also in a chain store here in South Wales called....... " What ".

Edit: Sorry, for some reason I can't get photos to fall in sequence after my written post.

Edited By Mike E. on 14/03/2018 20:04:13