Member postings for not done it yet

The screw need not be a BA thread.

You need to measure the female screw thread diameter - easy enough if it is not damaged - and the pitch of the thread. Refer to engineering tables for the likely real size of the screw (yours is likely undersized because it is worn?).

Otherwise, as Matthew above.

Apparently copper is one of those metals which remain soft after heating however it is cooled. Only work hardens. I have always cooled slowly, thinking it needed to be done that way, so as it works and it cools fairly quickly anyway, I have no burning desire to change. But nice to know it does not really matter.

For starters, why try to measure only half when you could be measuring twice as much difference?

In addition to Neil's comment, the studs can be waisted slightly. Not an easy solution if they are already permanently affixed. Just depends on the strength of the material and the designed working forces. The threads are likely the limiting factor, rather than the cross sectional area?

Here is a simple solution to your problem.

All you need is a ring which already fits her finger. Use it as a comparator. You can then make a short guage at any angle you desire, marking it at the point where her current ring fits.

If things did not deflect, they may well break or deform permanently - eventually. A fact of life, noted by Hooke, when he postulated his law on spring extension. Resonance is yet another detail - of which the Romans clearly knew (they broke marching step while crossing bridges) but the designers of the infamous tacoma bridge did not expect (it fell down).

Try climbing to the top of a 300' chimney and noting the 'sway'. I can tell you that it is considerable! Again they need to or they would fall down. Flower stalks are often good examples on a breezy day, too.

While Harold has some very interesting and effective solutions to many problems, I might ask of any comments on another sharpening system Eccentic's Acute system? Any good? I know it might look expensive, and challenging to make, to some .... but does it work?

Might country of origin (manufacture) and a lack of quality control (both by manufacturer and vendor) have a lot to do with shoddy goods? I do notice that many items produced in China are imported in bulk, then simply sold on at a well elevated price....

I once worked for a well known company that sourced many electonic parts from China. Any 'out of spec' goods were simply returned - the whole lot, not just the faulty ones!. The suppliers were then much more careful, and did not send shoddy products. They were still tested for conformity on arrival. Testing was cheaper than unit failures later (most likely after installation).

One thought - are the stud ends at the same dimensions as at the root

ie, exact same pattern.

Another is to make the gasket as a larger sheet and trim to size after fixing.

Edited By not done it yet on 18/09/2016 18:10:59

Lay gasket on face and then fit the studs? Standard A4 paper is about 0.1mm, so about the thickness of 5 sheets of paper?

I've no suggestions for an alternative. Try another internet source might be a possibility - epay quality is not always good quality.

What size are we talking here? Small, for me, is less than 50mm

Most problems with removing collet chucks are because the drawbar has been overtightened.

And another common problem is fitting a cold tapered tool tight into a warm machine taper.

The wedge removal should not damage a good quality morse taper with thread - the MT should be hard but tough. Also, the thread should be in a recessed pocket, so out of the way, and the outer rim of the threaded hole should be relieved so any 'spreading' will not affect the internal taper.

Tanged MTs do not grip on the tang, but do not turn in normal usage for axial thrust, but radial forces generally require a drawnbar - not so much to 'tighten' the grip, but sufficient to prevent loosening under those intermittent cutting forces and the rotating radial forces.

Headstock to bed(?) deflection does not seem promising, but the rest need qualifying. How long was this bar, its diameter, and material? All bars will deflect given sufficient force.

Add a thicker washer or washers, so avoiding those threads?

Make a pinch collar for the section of plain shaft and hold the shaft still with an appropriate spanner, wrench, etc?

Is it the nut, or the shaft threads that are galled/stretched/otherwise damaged? No point in holding one, if the other is at fault.

Not what we taught at tech college,

Quite right, but I very much doubt you were using the set up as described in the opening post to this thread.

Horses for courses, or make appropriate concessions to the ideal. The cutter, the machine and the actual process methodology need to to be considered in context. Cutters will only cut to their actual size in a good tool holder in a perfectly rigid set up. And, yes, not all cutters are perfect. There will always be a tolerance, no matter what combination of machine, cutter and operator.

Do check its content. It may contain Cadmium, which is outlawed these days. It would not stop you using it, but be aware that Cd is particularly toxic.

I just checked mine. One cell was dead (a reader) but the main readout is still operating OK. Probably the readout was physically turned off, but not the reader (on the scale). Not checked to see if the readout works with good cells in the scales, but Rik is likely on the money.

I bought mine on the back of a local model eng who only used the scales with separate readouts (cheaper option for him, but a little less sensitive). They do seem to be bomb proof, generally. Have you contacted Warco? They are very helpful, I have found.

My 2'' clack not works reasonably on my water pump.

On a more serious note, have you tried lapping the seat of any of these? The job should only take about 5 minutes after making the tool, either with one of the balls or a new (possibly more superior) one.

No mention of lathe bed size? I might just use a fixed steady, with tailstock at the end of the bed, and that would mean not a lot hanging out the back end For a 'one off'. I might tap in some aluminium strip at the rear of the spindle for extra security, proceed steadily and see how it goes. How long is your lathe?

Perhaps getting a mini vertical slide for your mini lathe might be a good idea for getting into projects? Depends on how one interprets the 'little' in your post, I suppose.

It's not another 'separate' purchase, only an 'addition' to the lathe, so may not 'need' executive approval. Look on it as 'another lathe tool'?

Ooh-er! I'm in trouble, my 2 axis dro for my lathe only has x and y axes.

Anyone seen a 2 axis dro with z axis plus one other?