Member postings for not done it yet

As my daily commute is 92 miles round trip, only Teslas have a "workable" range for me to avoid "range anxiety"

It would only require a 13A mains connection, while at work, to completely avoid that? Maybe not possoble now... but in the future....

On top of the above, re keyed or not, the belts should be adjusted/capable of driving the full power of the motor. Slipping belts is not an ideal scenario.

My one horsepower Centec is provided with a twin V belt drive. Thrashing belts or potentially losing power is not the name of the game - one cannot rely on the chosen cutting speeds either - and the motor should be protected (from overload conditions) by thermal cut-outs.

Additionally, the arbor on my machine was never slotted, so deemed unnecessary for extra security (against cutter slippage). 1 1/4" arbors are definitely a considerable step up from the 1" on my machine (an increase of over 50% in cross section). I would not fancy a slitting saw blade disintegrating, particularly at high speed.

Not sure how wide cutters are, to be considered as 'slitting saws' but some of mine are less than a millimetre, so need care during use for both satisfactory life and prevention of jamming.

Theoretically you should sharpen to just past the old parallel bit. That way both the taper cut and the last little bit will be cutting with a keen edge. Ie the taper will be slightly extended each time the reamer is sharpened.

3" diameter, so 9 1/2" circumference, so at 100 surface feet per minute cutting speed, about 125rpm (assuming HSS). I would not go that fast so that the slitting saw will last longer. Coolant of some sort as well would be good. Speed might even be dependent on the width of the blade and how it is supported.

Feed will depend on the number of teeth, mostly.

Edit: too slow for RE! Excuse is that my lady arrived home before the last line was added.

Edited By not done it yet on 19/08/2017 15:44:13

I'll give it a bump. I might consider felts on a shaper to be better for adding lube, not removing (wiping) it as the ways usually seem to be well away from any flying debris.

Never a quick answer unless the detail is present in the question. Trying to cut full width? Arbor rpm? Feed rate? Diameter of cutter? How many teeth?  Condition of cutter?  Motor power? All relevant, I would suspect. Even the material will make a difference.

Why not try with something a little (no, a lot) narrower, as a starting point? A stalling motor will not be cured with different belts.

Edited By not done it yet on 18/08/2017 18:07:14

Have a caliper? If so, measure ten pitches of lead screw (or movement of saddle with ten turns of the screw). Easy to calculate from that.

Forgive me for pointing out that M5 is less than a 1/4" while 5/16 is more. M8 is more like equivalent.

I use Cromwell tools in Peterborough but just 50m down the road is Sterling Nut & Bolt. Sterling carry almost all you might need. Expense was not mentioned, only availability. Sterling have only failed me once in the last couple of years. They only had 1 1/4" x 3/16" grub screws and I needed 1 1/2".

All their products are of known origin and certificated, if required. More expensive - yes - but easily available. I can buy cheap, but if I want a guaranteed good product I go to the specialist.

I'm like Duncan. The Centec 2B with dro, riser blockand long travel power feed does all I need (I think). My previous round column mill has been supeceded by a definite improvement.

Power is handy but, as hobbyists, we don't necessarily need to remove metal at the same rate as the commercial operations. The cost was very favourable compared to a new equivalent far eastern machine. It will likely last another 70 years and also works well in both vertical and horizontal modes.

Built like the proverbial 'brick bog' is not a bad thing - apart from needing to be dismantled to move it in and out of its current position.

Redundant is different to 'worn out'. It should be recycled as a pillar drill, not just taken to 'the local recycling' as that will likely mean 'scrapped'.

If only 1/8" thick, they may well be nuts used in glass house construction where the nuts and bolts were rather smaller than the usual guttering/roofing articles.

How about simply painting the odd ones in a clearly recognisable colour? Visual checking only takes milliseconds, so no great hardship.

Two things.

One - A correction. Stats quoted by Robert Llewelyn on Fully Charged were incorrect. Apparently it is 42% ' with a plug'(so doesn't include non-plug in hybrids?), and 22% fully electric.

And two - I've certainly not held up Norway as a possible route for the UK to take. It is clear that after 2040, there will be fewer purely ICE cars (as a percentage) in the UK. All I wrote was that the UK government would be aware of the changes occurring in Norway.

Sure, there will be unintended hiccups along the way (a bit like the Germans producing more PV generation than their grid could cope with - leading to negative electricity pricing, on at least one occasion), but I daresay the Norwegians will overcome these small problems (like removing EVs from free travel on ferries?). Question might arise that new ferries will be electric as well?

I wonder if any forum members think the 'tipping point' for electric vehicles is just around the corner.

Interesting fact : 42% of new cars in Norway are now pure electric. Not hybrids, plug ins or range extenders - but pure electric. OK, the UK is not Norway, but I reckon Norway is well past the 'tipping point' and the UK is just a long way behind on the curve. I would expect the government is watching developments....

Neil,

I replied to GP 1's post just above mine. No relevance to bleach.

Chlorine based bleaches need to remain alkaline as chlorine gas will be produced in acid conditions. Ozone bleaches are often likely used as they are better, in some ways, than chlorine based products.

Chitinase will be an enzyme which breaks down chitin (the clue is the ending of 'ase'. That should mean that mould spores are destroyed. The spores are very difficult to kill off as they are resistant to many conditions found in nature - and a good few man-made ones, too.

Rather than using ordinary household vinegar (which contains caramel and other mould foodstuffs) - unless pickling (spirit) vinegar - if you must, buy in ethanoic acid and dilute it to the same strength. Saves one buying water.

Swiss? 1870? I would not have thought they were using Imperial measurements a great deal - although sock machines and other similar inventions did tend to comply to the UK/US sizes. Or maybe the movements were Swiss and the container made somewhere else?

Hi Trevor,

Thanks for the offer. I will be replying by PM as soon as I catch my fabrication man in his workshop - he is mostly out on jobs as he is generally in demand.

There are methyl methacrylate monomer adhesives out there. Have you tried those?

I think I have a new one somewhere - bought at a car boot sale for little money (most certainly less than a tenner). Not used and still in its box.

I use a couple (150 and 200mm) bought at farm sales - far better - and the decent rests came off the grinder bought at a farm sale about 30 years ago (expired eventually with a start winding problem but not worth the time to check it out).