Member postings for not done it yet

Ahh, likely need a line shaft overhead and steam engine outside to restore it properly.

Welcome to the forum and have some fun.

At least we can immediately get something back from you! Now, about my 'oover and old push lawn mower (II'll dig them out of the shed)...

I'll second the book suggestion from FF. I got a book from the library and it was carp, but this one seems much more useful. Question might be: Was it running when you got it? If so, a clean and oil would likely solve the problem. They can be touchy regarding levelling and possibly simply 'out of beat' - does it go tick-tock evenly while running?

The experts will be along,

given time. (Pun intended)

They can all work. The usual method is to use the mill or lathe to line up the tap accurately to the hole, not necessarily starting the thread by the machine power. Alternatively using a bush to line up the tap is recommended. Crooked threads easily cause broken taps which are a 'B' to remove. Do not buy cheap unless well experienced - they can easily be broken in the hole!

Flared as in musical instruments or brake pipes? Or flared as in expanded for a parallel overlap joint - as in vehicle exhaust sections? If the latter, the exhaust fitters are likely the easiest option. Or search out a plumbing fitting?

Any motor I can have a return valve if I find its overkill though.

Could be dangerous if a positive displacement pump. Correctly, you would need a pressure relief valve. PRVs likely don't take kindly to abrasive liquids at high velocity, either.

£375 to over a grand (for the last two bids) seems like someone might have got it dropped on their toes, to me. But the obviously wanted it. But I reckon he/she was miffed at being pushed to that price and didn't expect a zero feedback bidder to bid £999.

Black powder or nitro?

38 and 17 give the same centre distance, too. That is what mine are. One can easily count the teeth on the lathesdotco site.

Edited to add the thread link:

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=130432

Edited By not done it yet on 16/10/2017 10:23:59

The typical washing machine pump is about 90W. You would not want that gushing across your table at full bore! Output depends on lift height (flow is zero at maximum lift) for an impellor pump. Nozzle velocity might well depend on its size, too. So, more to think about than simple wattage. Oil pumps are likely positive displacement, so not the best idea with potential swarf contamination in the feed. 10^5 Pascals is one atmosphere, by the way!

On top of the above post, Myfords with a single lead screw (standing in in for a power feed drive) was a cost cutting compromise. Power feeds do not need to be so precise/accurate, but threading lead screws do. Wear on the threading lead screw, for power feeding, is not an ideal situation and will eventually lead to some inaccuracy along the length of the screw.

the only way to get accurate dimensions off the machine settings only is with DRO

Andy,

Not necessarily true. They would, of course, like you to purchase one! The accuracy is in the consistency of the lead screw threads, once you take up the backlash. DROs come in various flavours.

Those that highlight readings to 0.01mm may well have a much poorer accuracy (+ or - 0.04mm?), once you read the smaller print. Those that read to 0.001mm should be at least better than 0.01mm absolute - but they are rather more costly than the basic 0.01mm type.

Glad you enjoyed your course. Being safer is a good plus point on its own.

As NW, surface preparation is very important. A rough surface 'key' and cleanliness are both requisites for successful painting. Both are important factors, as well as flatting for aethsetic reasons.

Ferrous metals need painting before oxidation, too, unless using an appropriate primer (but not necessarily an etching primer as per this posting) or paint (the old type Hunter's smooth- or hammer-rites). Knowing your actual metal surface is the key. Aluminium metal is very reactive in air and rapidly produces an oxide surface layer which is not conducive to good surface coating. Other metals may be the same, or keyless simply due to smoothness.

The one thing you do not do, normally is to use one top coat. This is because top coats do not usually combine with, neutralise, or penetrate, the surface layer on the substrate.

Following the instructions is therefore important when surface coating.

I think it may be a controlled cushing device, such as using a couple plates,with grain between, for preparation of samples for early moisture testers, or for compacting those ground samples into a standard sized pellet for use in the testing instrument. Early machines were far better than the farmer collecting a few grains and biting them between his/teeth as a test for readiness for combine harvesting.

Nah, it's just an ordinary Centec 2 with that wheel changed for the usual rise and fall ratchet handle. Awkward for that, compared to the side operated handle of the 2A - which is just a bit awkward - and the later front operated knee of the 2B. I've never encountered a 2 but it will be OK, I'm sure. Slower and more fiddly than the later models but the same result. Most of us are not in any great hurry.

I made a pair of wedges and they have worked well, but I like the way Brian does it.

Pipe can hang up beside/behind the mill, with the alternative drawbars, so not so easily "misplaced" as wedges (even though the wedges have holes, for hanging on a nail).

Wedges, on balance, are a better solution in most cases - thinking here Clarkson or ER collet holders), and my home made arbor is shorter than the one that came with the mill...

Also remember never to put a cold arbor into a warm socket... after you get it out. My home made arbor was shrunk fitted together (MT blank + round bar) and that has not come loose ... yet.

You were still locking gears. Ne este par? Only consolation was you were meshing on several teeth, but with minimal useful width and the ally teeth would have sheared before the gear teeth. Remember those cut teeth would likely only be bearing on the single t

ooth that was actually meshing at the time! It does seem that the chuck was not really very tight, after all.

Do make sure the registering surfaces are meticulously clean, as well as the threads, and fit parts while at, or close to, the same temperature.

If I were doing that, I think I would soften a wide thermoplastic bar and make moulded teeth full width in a few minutes. Smacking the adjustable with a soft faced mallet is far better than cracking the chuck key drive casting in the chuck, mind (chuck jaws are stronger than the key operating parts).

Going back to origins - are these instruments turning off ( losing power feed) or going into sleep mode or just losing a signal? Subtle differences when looking for a fault. Signal loss can be poor screening, parallel power cables with signal wires, or even heavy current on crossing wires, producing either magnetic fields or capacitive effects. The average multimeter is no good for this type of fault.

Nor do you give any history - a recent fault, after running OK for some time, or a new installation not working from commissioning. All very relevant information before one even starts poking around the system.

An experienced electrical engineer would be askiing lots of pertinent questions, to narrow down the random nature of the suggestions above, before even stsrting to investigate physically. - (s)he would try to sort out whether a signal tester or multimeter was relevant for the investigation. Maplin quality parts might be a good starting point for checking out!

Internet? Or local belt/bearing supplier? I went to my local ABC for mine, but most are larger rather than smaller. I also have a feeling that my wife got me some small sized selection from Li*l, but I may be mistaken.

Andrew,

Any chuck (whether posilock(?), Clarkson or ER) use up some of your head space.

The compromise may also be a drawbar, limiting feedstock length when used in the lathe. I was compromised when changing to mostly 2MT from 3MT - none of my morse taper collets fitted!

I think there is a law which says that whatever you get will be wrong for the job, sooner or later.

Apart from the post from Clive, even if it was aligned perfectly it would still likely cut a sliver on the way back - unless a travelling steady prevented any deformation. We call it a spring cut when we want to take off a sliver, so cutting again on the same setting.

Likely a slightly different outcome if the cutter was fitted on the other side of the tool post (but impractical, as we could not cut so very close to the chuck!). There are compromises in most designs.