Member postings for not done it yet

3-D printed, presumably?

Have you quoted metric measurements as gospel, or might they be Imperial (more likely 3/4, 3/8, 1/8 and 24DP)?

I hope the 3 MT is better than the 2MT I got from them. It rattled in the machine socket.

After blueing it up with lines of marker and giving it a twist, it only fitted the socket at the innermost end. Nowhere near MT2!

Portland cement is not a good choice for durability. Concrete cracks and spalls and portland cement loses all strength on heating to about 900 Celsius. We did that to concrete samples when analysing the make-up.

Portland cement strength comes from hyrated silicates. Dehydration occurs anything above about 600 Celsius IIRC.

Calcium carbonate loses CO2 around 900 and Portland cement will melt at about 1500, dependent on composition (ignoring the gypsum content).

Most certainly, some form of insulating layer in any furnace is good for energy conservation and so speed of melting the bit, that is needed to be heated, is accelerated. Rotary cement kilns used to have two layers of refractory in some regions of the tube - one for abrasion and chemical resistance and the outer layer as insulation.

Now, melting Rhodium/Platinum mixtures is another matter. We used an induction furnace and carbon crucibles for really high temperatures. But that was thirty years ago.... so doubtless things have changed a bit, since then.

We used a reference book by ‘The Refigerateted Steam Company’ back in the 1970s. It was a superb little book. I can’t remember if that was the title, part of it, or if there was another actual title. It was a hard back about A4-ish and about 20mm thick.

I would love to find a copy, but am unable to unearth any referece to it on the net. It was obviously printed some time before I came across it. I can’t remember which specific information we used it for - possibly flue gas temperature and measurement for sampling gases from large ducts for dust testing.

Anyone help?

I think that is a bit of a ‘stretch of the imagination’

Question might be: Are my wife’s broken arm bones welding themselves back together? I don’t think of it as such.

Is it fuelled by metanol in order to run cooler? I note there is no forced air cooling.

I think the advantages of a shorter, stiffer crank is better in the V formation, rather than a 360 degree crank in an in-line configuration.

Nice work and runs well.

Tunnel vision here, I reckon. If liquid nitrogen is available, it is obviously the best way to install interference fitting parts. Warming the housing would likewise increase the clearance for fitting.

But, without being provided with all the details it is not clear of the loading on the bush in use, etc. How long is the bush? What is the ID? Axial or radial loading? Plain bush or lipped? Through bore or blind? Will the bore be machined after installation?

Quite likely a slip fit with a suitable grade of loctite, or similar, would suffice. Quite likely a couple of grubscrews, on the joint line, would add further security.

Personally, I don’t see any particular problem given the scanty information provided.

I understand, from your thread on another forum, that the gear is DP5. The diameter and number of teeth on the pinion would determine if this is the case.

It is then simply a matter of cutting the teeth using some form of angle division and ideally using the relevant involute cutter. Plenty of u-toob videos on the subject. As Tim said, a flycutter can be made to do the job.

If you were to make a new rack you could choose any PD, or use the metric MOD system, if the gear centres are not important and you do not mind deviating from the original drawings.

Vehicles have had bodywork filled, after accidents or corrosion, for decafes. Doesn’t fall out when properly applied.

A suitable key, for adhesion, is what is required.

Bill,

The Drummond has a spring loaded friction device which bears against the lead screw. An O-ring looped around a screw might be sufficient friction. Likely other solutions....

SOD,

TBH, I had no idea whether the OP’s mill was not exactly as the Warco item, whether there was exra cost for longer scales, etc. As usual, JB got there before me, but I did know Brian stated that his table travel was differentto the stated clone.

I was only questioning if there was a miskake (note the ? at the end of the sentence, not a full stop).

Personally, I don’t particularly like ‘spare’ unused scale as it can be a hindrance at awkward times. Some can be shortened, some cannot.

I’ve yet to come across a scale that would not read its listed length. Most have a few mm to spare at those sort of lengths.

Finally, guessing may not be the best method. Measuring (twice?) is far better!

Too busy, at times, to waste time typing - as my dear wife needs dressing, showering and getting to the clinic on time. (I’ve now got about three hours, or so, to wait before taking her home - we were here for 10 1/2 h two weeks ago).

Possibly. Def needs new brushes and the comm cutting back. Depends where the smoke came from...

Sure you can (Arc do them), but angs are only really needed where extraction is by wedge? Simple bolts are far cheaper for this problem?

Edited By not done it yet on 26/03/2018 11:10:48

Mistake number one? Warco blurb says table is 840 and travel is 565?

Suggest you check carefully.

As Journeyman - or drill, thread and insert a suitable bolt/screw/threaded bar to eject them earlier. Hardness might be deciding factor...

Edited By not done it yet on 25/03/2018 20:09:13

The only really important imperial part of it will be the draw bar threads. The downside of this type of holder is mainly that a specific collet for each size of cutter is required.

ER collets work over a prescribed range of sizes, so within that range any one collet it will accommodate any diameter you choose - whether metric or imperial.

Don’t buy a holder from a cheap chinese supplier, is my advice. One from banggood was most certainly not a fit in a 2MT socket. It rattled! I still have the evidence! Unadulterated carp - and their customer service is on the same scalein my experience.

+1 here, Chris. Wrong (even if the poster claims it was not running at the time - as is the usual excuse). Apart from personal safety, it does not give good guidance to others who may know no better.

If one looks long enough and hard enough, most things can be found on one sale site or another, eventually (as long as the sites are appropriate ones). Patience is often required, mind.

Made to avoid any possible litigation?

It also reads ‘golden’ flash. Possibly another carefully worded ‘error’?