Member postings for not done it yet

I’ll keep out of this thread, except to say that one solar panel will be about as useful as a chocolate teapot in the winter period. Better posted on s renewable energy forum.

Too much twaddle about how good chinese diesel heaters are and kerosene purchases. Also some misunderstandings re solar panels? Natural gas is as cheap, or cheaper than oil at the present time, btw.

Nope. Dimmers effectively reduce the voltage applied to the lighting (or any other - even things like 3kW immersion heaters, for instance). The frequency is not altered and an induction motor is frequency controlled for its rotational speed.

Was that engine fitted with plain bearings? Many Honda engines have/had roller bearings.

With all due respect, Clive, can you quote examples?

The old Fordson Standard provided maximum power @1200rpm (a non-pressurised oiling arrangement). I know of some engines with pumped ‘splash’ crank bearings running up to 2200rpm with aluminium pistons (1600rpm was generally regarded as enough with cast iron pistons). All higher speed engines I have come across have had pressure-fed crankshaft bearings.

All the engines with dippers for crank lubrication were much lower-speed designs (800rpm and below?).

It all comes down to getting it at the right price!

You’ve only just noticed?😆😆😆

Some give fave reviews for cheap chinese junk tools and some even appear to get free toys if they put up loads of advertising reviews and ‘sort-of’ questions. Anything to get the free advertising out to the viewers. The good reviews are few and far between, IMO

I’ve honestly only come across one tool review that was completely honest (highlighted the failures and not just emphasised the supposed positives. She only reviewed once, as her honesty obviously got her crossed off the ‘’reviews for favours’ list.

They are like politicians - only give good news and don’t address the real issues at all. What car reviewer would get free junket trips to far-away places if they did not give a good review (from the manufacturer’s POV).

It’s all to do with misleading the general gullible public!

I mildly disagree with the above post. Lots of very good pieces have been made just using a lathe. Milling machines were either rather too expensive or not really available as one looks back to the middle of the last century snd earlier that (respectively) - but most lathes were of myford size or larger.

The limitations are as above - rigidity, space, power.

Machining very steadily is required for best results. I suspect many items were machined on a faceplate, or mounted on the cross slide, rather than in a vertical slide , back then.

Edited By not done it yet on 19/09/2023 22:37:51

Tired breaker?

First, I would be removing everything I could, to reduce the weight and height.

My next move would be to raise it sufficiently to get it on a large, sturdy, fully-boarded pallet. Secured properly, the pallet truck should be able to move it to the trailer - no real problem as the pallet only needs to be raised by a few mm.

Loading /unloading on/from the trailer depends.

I might expect the pallet could be pulled up some scaffold planks with suitable support beneath. The length and number would be longest and widest arrangement practical. If lift is adequate, the crane might be used, as you say, by moving the trailer under the machine, but safe slinging might be a problem?

I’ve shifted all manner of agri machinery, but never a bridgeport. Good luck, but be safe!

It should not be in circuit for long as a ‘starting’ capacitor?

FH,

You have a PM. Please reply.

The Raglan may be a good buy. I am presently watching it - just to see if it gets any bids. If it were not to get any bids (snd I had any space left🙁 ) I would have considered making an offer It is also encouraging offers - so might well settle for less. Again, condition is everything. That it is equipped withva QCGB would be an added attraction for any would-be Raglan user.

I bought a lathe - much like that - to replace what I considered to be a previous poor-choice chinese lathe. I was quite content with the Raglan but eventually upgraded to the 5” Raglan. The 5” will be my last lathe - it has several improved attributed but I enjoyed my Mkll, all the same. Streets ahead of a fymord, IMO.

Incoming supply is nominally 230 volts RMS, so peak instantaneous supply voltage as experienced by the capacitor is 1.414 times 230 volts = 325 volts as near as the model needs.

There we go again, not everyone who gives advice presents the full picture. It may be them trying to keep it simple or not actually knowing. The grid voltage is not fixed at 230V. As stated, that is the nominal voltage. It can legally be as high as 253V - which at peak voltage is close to 360V, not 325V.

Indeed, mains voltage in the UK can fall as low as 216V and still be classed as acceptable. Your real, practical supply must, by law, remain within the range of 216.2-253V. Your local transformer (particularly if you are near the end of the transmission line) supplying your grid power will have several tappings for the output voltage expected from the potential loads on that line.

Capacitors from some sources are doubtless close to the minimum specification. Just calling the the capacitor ‘230VAC’, like Dave suggests, is not necessarily the whole story. A far better metric is the maximum DC voltage that can be applied across the given capacitor - and unless the user knows that actual value, they could be purchasing an item with little or no safety factor.

Buy a non-polarity-conscious capacitor with a 450VDC rating. Buy from a reliable source. Buy cheap, buy twice.

As far as I am aware, the “start” capacitor does not make any contribution to the motor beyond that first few milliseconds at initial starting (until the switch in the motor disconnects the winding from the circuit).

I’m not an electrician, but know enough about mains voltages to be reasonably safe. Anyone who is not, would be well advised to take their issues to a specialist in the field - in this case a motor rewind business would be a good port of call.

Agreed. A 400V capacitor is only ~10% above the peak mains voltage from the 230V mains. Better to go minimum 450V.

Edited By not done it yet on 10/09/2023 20:56:07

Can you shim under the tool-post until it lines up exactly with the threads for the grub screw when fitted tightly in the threads? Then fix the grub screw in position to retain the post?

Here is a typical non-engineer youtuber showing how to test a receiver using a pressure washer. Fairly good but I would use a Tee, with a valve, to be sure that most of the pressure washer volume could bypass the receiver.

A simple risk assessment is all that is needed. He didn’t consider how to limit the pressure if a pressure washer fault occurred. Very unlikely, but for the cost of a Tee-piece and a valve, is it worth taking that risk?

**LINK**

Only if the tester is so dumb that they do not Tee-in a bypass, so the pressure at the receiver is carefully adjusted. I did write the word ‘carefully’ in my reply, but I do know that many don’t take notice of what is actually written.🙂

I expect a diesel fuel injector ‘pop-tester’ could be used to raise the pressure - but with such a small volume per stroke and hand operated it would take a while.🙂

Doubtless some pressure washers will attenuate to a quite low pressure delivery - but, yes, any dim-wit supplying full pressure directly from a pressure washer (100Bar upwards) could end up with a scrap receiver.

Unfortunately the term ‘engineer’ (in the forum title) does not run true to the term when used to describe a proper engineer.

Fed from the 5A lighting circuit at 240V, power is 1.2kW - although fuses may carry quite a bit more current before (immediate) failure. 240V was the standard grid supply, along with wired fuses in their era.

I daresay I have a version of those, somewhere. They were handy for 500W IR heaters, for newly born/hatched offspring - back well into the 1950s. Three way square pin adapters and extension leads gradually displaced them.

Washing machine pump motors tend to be shaded pole synchonous motors

That’s the type of motor I was thinking of. Yes, pretty well synchronous, so I wad fairly accurate in my previous posts?

None of my pumps, fans, etc have run in ‘effluent’. The rotors are all in fresh air. The chinese bearings in the Meaco dehumidifiers are the worst, IMO.

I simply drilled and threaded a hole in the end of the existing feed screw on my Raglan, then added a drive for the power feed I roughly made to the youtube video by Phil Vandelay.

He used a wiper motor, but I used a 24V (I think) alternative.