Member postings for not done it yet

Clearly not many Morris Minor rear axles involved with agri-machinery. Lots get it wrong when changing bearings on these old cars.

I suspect it is not only the item used to ‘tap-down’ for seating on parallels that causes issues. Many expect the parts to be already parallel between the vise jaws and that the vise jaws are perfectly parallel, too. Often neither one nor both may conform.

Omitting a soft insert between the movable jaw and the work may well cause a problem, particularly if the tapping merely lowers the movable jaw - which then moves up again on tightening.🙂

I use what is at hand. I did buy a couple of dead-blow hammers a couple years ago - by one of the really cheap chinese suppliers - and often use one of them- but not always. The Thor leather/white metal mallets likely get most use.

Searching images for jerk injection pumps is likely to show at least a similar pump.

Re Howards comment on cleanliness - it is recommended to rebuild while immersed in clean fuel, to minimise any risk of introducing ‘scratchy’ particles during this process.

I expect fuel delivery is varied by shimming, to alter the pump stroke? Or was that timing? It’s ten years, or more since I took a Bryce pump apart. The usual problem, with these pumps, is the non-return valve on the delivery outlet to the pump.

My advice: Stop worrying about a bit of swarf on that shaft. As above, easily cleaned. It will collect swarf whenever swarf is being spread around by metal cutting operations. However much you clean it, it will re-occur. A clean screw, virtually clear of oil is the best way to help stop material sticking to it.

One can install telescopic covers to protect the screw from swarf impinging on the screw.

But, basically, that screw is only used when threading, not with general cutting duties, so it will not be worn unduly - like many hobby lathes - as it will (doubtless?) be stationary at all other times? The main risk might be that of swarf being carried into the half nuts within the apron. Without knowing the actual arrangement on that machine, I will just say it is not an issue worth worrying about with my 50 year old lathe.

I have (like many others, I suppose) a range of what we call ’blacksmith’s drills’. One does not need an extra piece of equipment in the chain - so more rigid - to take up more space and create more possible overhang. Most hobby lathes don’t need a larger drill chuck than 13mm, or 16mm at most. With a small hobby lathe, one does need to step up in size more carefully, to avoid overloading the drive. My largest is probably a 1 1/4” example.

Re dents in the ceiling - I remember a rather deep imprint in the high ceiling from a peroxide calorimeter which exploded (any dampness within the reactants was the cause) when attempting a coal analysis. I only used an adiabatic bomb calorimeter for that job!

One can buy (or make) a tang, if you ever needed one, and screw it into a threaded taper.

My advice is to buy a chuck. Changing jobbing drills, centre drills, spotting drills, etc for second operations will soon become a drag. I actually have a couple of chucks, fitted with centre drills, and use a keyless chuck for other purposes.

Not usual. Check the expiry date? Your description is a little vague. Was this a thin ribbon from a usual cartridge type of dispenser, as usually fitted to a caulking gun? Or was it about 25% of the contents?

Silicone sealants give off ethanoic acid as they cure. Was this an excess of acid in this product. If it has separated, it may be important….

As above, if cheap, buy better.

That 20l referred to the daily water collection (at standard conditions - likely warm and high humidy). The collection tank, therefore, may need emptying four times each day.🙂

Piping to a drain is very handy if one does not wish to keep emptying the tank - or are away for a period of time. There is only so much collected water that can be used up. Most of mine goes in a 200l water butt or for watering plants.

My desiccant type helps to keep the workshop warm as well as keeping the humidity down. A compressor dehumidifier would be more energy efficient for hot, humid conditions.

Hammering anything into the grub screw head is only going to tighten the grip of the thread, so likely not a good idea.

As a last resort, the blade, which is held precisely in position by those grub screws (I’ve changed and set blades many times in a much larger planer than this one) would be to grind/mill away the (likely HSS) blade(s) and remove the grub screw(s) afterwards. These rotors turn at very high speed (maybe 5000rpm?), so drilling new holes is likely to upset the balance, which may even end up with an imperfect finish on any decent hardwood timber.

The screws are possibly not on a chord (most certainly not a tangent🙂 ), because they need to trap the blade securely at right angles to the blade to avoid any movement when finally securing the blade, after setting it level across the rotor. I can’t remember, after 30 years, if the blades were fitted radially, but suspect they were.

Unless it is for aesthetic reasons, I would use a flanged pulley with a flat surface. More contact area, tracked belt and OK for anything on old iron which is out of sight. That was what was fitted to our early 1950s Massey Harris 701 baler.🙂

I changed that pulley for a multi-grooved pulley which easily transmitted all 22HP without any slip with a twenty-odd grooved belt.

I have had four of those. All purchased as basket cases or not working.

Easy fixes, but still unreliable. I have made three working machines from the four and always keep at least two operational. While on holidays I set two running (for less time than the usual single unit) for two reasons - firstly both are unlikely to fail during that period and secondly to allow collection of 4 litres of water before they stop.

These are obviously older second hand units and cost me peanuts. That said, the one I am currently using has not failed in more than the a year, only runs for an hour each night (on low setting) and will have collected less than four litres of condensate this month.

That the humidity is maintained adequately low and the workshop has not needed much other heat - only some use of a chinese diesel air heater (mostly while I am in situ, on colder days) - makes the outlay very much worthwhile.

Current nightly running cost is just over 7.5p, since shell increased their unit charges at the beginning of the year.

Now what do I use 2 feet of 5/8" Al Bronze for ?

A couple of hefty yellow metal drifts?

Probably need more information on exactly what you wish to achieve.

Is it important how near to the edge the bolts are? How permanent is this? Hex bolts or cap screws?

Personally I would likely screw them together and then weld them, if I wanted a permanent 50mm thick lump.

So more info?

Edit: ask the mods to change it - but I expect they would need more info, as well.

Edited By not done it yet on 25/02/2023 12:41:41

Mill/drill off the ‘heads’, as above. Then drill a pilot hole in the remaining shank, followed by larger left-handed drills which will most likely easily remove the remaining threads as the drill size approaches the core size. Careful not to damage the planer blade(s) ax you drill deeper, if it/they is/are otherwise in good condition

Left-handed drills are one of my ‘go to’ options with broken screws/bolts. I never use the common (as in ‘cheap&rsquo ‘easy-outs’ and would certainly not recommend those as an option.

They might be odd sized imperial hex? If so maybe a torx drive might fit? Depends really on how much the grub screws are damaged.

The material turned nicely, but was tough to drill and very tough to put a 1/4" BSP tap through the bush. I just thought my ancient tap was blunt, but by comparison, when I re-made the bushes in some stock brass, they passed through quite easily.

That smacks as a description of typical aluminium bronze. I have a project with a large(ish) chunk on the lathe. Turns nicely, but is b****r to tap.

‘Hardened’ could mean surface- or through- hardened.

Carbide would suffice - little doubt of that.

Your choice obviously but removing 4 mm from the shank may be a fair percentage of the holder or not much, dependent on its present dimensions.

While a useful-looking cutter holder, I might wonder if it is really of appropriate size for a “baby” lathe.

Did you really need two lathes? I suspect the myford will soon be out of favour.

I manage easily with one lathe. If I have more than one job going, at the same time, I change the chuck - a chuck is the far cheaper option than buying another lathe.🙂

A colchester would have been on my initial list of machines - except for the expense and size, at the time.

I’ve yet to move a Raglan 5” centre lathe with help other than lifting it down from its position (and carrying one bed down a flight of stairs.. The stand is not included here.

I’ve shifted them in a peugeot 205 and citroen saxo without needing extra help - some with carriage removed and all with motor chuck and tailstock removed.

An inclined plane and suitable pivot made loading/unloading easy enough.

If adequate space, using an inclined plane and ratchet straps is a good way to raise heavy machinery from ground level to bench/stand/cabinet.

In my case I have used an aldi 250kg electric hoist to raise the Raglans to a stand. I strapped the lathes to a sturdy sack barrow to shift the machine from car to workshop.

Up until recently, 50kg would be carried/lifted short distances, but anno domini is catching up on me, now my 75th birthday anniversary is rapidly approaching.

Moving a small lathe is trivial - as long ac you plan/prepare carefully and work ultra-safely. ‘Belt and braces’ is far better than ru-ing the failure afterwards.

Looks like cutting and rubbing alternately?

Even blunt cutter, extended cutter from holder, too fine a cut (both depth and long travel), a QCTP extended too far from the cross slide centre, using carbide cutters at settings far too fine feeds /depth of cut, plus all the other suggestions.

Again, as Andrew - helix or concentric grooves? I’m guessing they are concentric.

300V Would be my guess. These are to suppress sperks - and you don’g get sparks like these at low voltage, as it is the induced back-emf from the coil windings.

The name of the supplier and the price tells me they are not worth the investment. A decent pair of driving bars would likely cost more! They may be good for running through damaged threads, otherwise they won’t last long before needing to be replaced.

The only redeeming thing about the dies is that they are all the same OD! I’ve bought different sizes of drivers, as and when they have popped up second hand . Metric and imperial die holders are not really inter-changeable.