Member postings for John Reese

They were sturdy and well constructed. If not badly abused it should be a good machine. I am not certain this has a quill. The absence of quill feed (either manual or mechanical) can make some operations difficult or impossible, like drilling a hole at an angle. The tooling offered with it is truly impressive. 40 taper tooling is relatively inexpensive and widely available.

https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/rakerelief.php

My preference would be a bush with a shoulder on the OD to set depth and squareness.

Please don't try to extend the spindle. At the 20000 or so rpms there is not much tolerance for imbalance in the extended cutter. I chucked a fairly long mounted stone in my Makita die grinder (20000 to 24000 rpm) Dur to the overall length of the stone and the imbalance as soon as I hit the switch the shank of the stone made a sudden right angle bend just outside the collet. It became really exciting. I needed both hands to control the grinder and could not reach the toggle switch on the back of the grinder. All I could do was kick at the cord to knock the plug out of the socket. Eliminate the dust shoe and use standard tool stickout. Tolerate the extra cleanup to prevent the potential damage and injury if the extended becomes unstable.

Recently I bought 3 gears to replace the missing change gears on my Nardini lathe. I searched on eBay to find the best prices. The 40 and 100 tooth gears came from Chinese vendors. The 127 tooth gear came from the Netherlands. I was amazed at how inexpensive the gears were.

It is for an OD grinder.

There a lot of similar collet chucks on the market. They are definitely not ER type collet. They resemble Acura grip or TG collets but my not be compatible with either system.

That model chuck is probably the worst Jacobs ever designed. It was used primarily on "home utility" drills. Replace it with a real chuck, either keyed or keyless. Your chuck appears o have a male thread for mounting. Most chuks have a female thread in the back. I think it is a 3/8-24 thread. A short piese of threaded rod is all that is needed to adapt the newer chucks to your drill.

It should not be a difficult job to make a replacement. If in doubt about the thread form, use the leadscrew as a template for grinding your threading tool. The flat at the end of the tool should be a little narrower than the flat at the root of the screw thread. That allows a little clearance at the root of the thread,

Several years ago on my first day in the machine shop the compound leadscrew stripped out of the nut. I had to find a piece of bronze big enough to make the nut then machine a new nut.

I believe the SAE callout was abandoned many years ago and replaced by UNF.

It looks that way. I have a small 4-jaw on a 5C collet body. It lets me adjust work dead true when using an indexer.

My uncle, an engraver hardened his gravers at the kitchen range. I believe he used an alcohol lamp when drawing back the temper.

I grip my drills on the OD of the flutes using either 5C or ER32 collets depending on the size. I grind a 4 facet point. The greatest need in any drill grinding setup id that it can index exactly 180 deg. to get the flutes equal. I am thinking of getting a 4" 6-jaw chuck so I can expand the range of drills I can sharpen.

The set with tapered sliding bars was made by Brown & Sharpe. I have set. Great for checking cylindrical bores. Useless if there is taper.

Buying cheap telescoping gauges is a mistake. Buy the best quality you can find. M&W, Mitu, NSK,...

The set with tapered sliding bars was made by Brown & Sharpe. I have set. Great for checking cylindrical bores. Useless if there is taper.

I cut my "blotters" from the cardboard back of a writing tablet.

The Dickson tool post is quality item. For it to locate accurately the distance between the Vs has to be spot on. Most of the Dickson style toolposts seem to be clones of the originals. I question if the makers of these clones adhere to the C-C dimension of the original Dickson.

The wedge type of Aloris clone is pretty forgiving about tool holder geometry. The only critical surfaces for accurate locating are the face of the tool holder and the face of the front dovetail.

I suspect at some time you will want to make some form tools. You will want HSS for that so get a grinder with proper wheels. Learn to grind your own tools. You will also want a Dremel or similar tool form inside radii on some tools.

I think most of us under-tension the collet nut. I believe the iseal tightening torque for the ER32 size is around 100 ft.lb. A young strong man in his prime might be able to achieve that torque with the wrenches provided. For those of us that are old and decrepit there is no way to tighten the collet sufficiently without putting a cheater pipe on the spanner.