Member postings for John Reese

NOOO I hate trying to pick up the end of paper from the blind side of the roll. That damned standard must have been written by women.

The camera lens was eccentric as was its owner.

Gave me vertigo.

Go for the Arc provided its dimensions (dovetail is most important) are close to those of Aloris. They are quite forgiving of the dimensions of the dovetailed tool holders while still giving excellent repeatability. Extra tool holders are very inexpensive. The Warco style requires the Vs be precisely spaced and parallel for repeatability. I doubt the Asian manufacturers will maintain the level of precision to allow you to buy replacement tool holders that fit properly.

Can you find a face mill adapter with a big enough flange? You may have to run the bolts into tapped holes if there is no space for a groove for the thin nuts.

I do my broaching on a 3 ton arbor press. Before I had the arbor press I used the spindle of a 21" Royersford camelback drill press. Your frirnd's hydraulic press should work beautifully. Be sure to back off thr ram periodically to allow the broach to re-seat itself in the but. That will prevent the broach leaning outward and resulting in a tapered keyway.

If the gib had only one screw it was common practice to have a slot in the head of the gib that surrounded the head of the screw. That prevented the gib from moving inward and locking the slide. It id possible the head of the gib was broken, losing the slot.

In all probability the screws are Whitworth. If built in England it would not likely have UNC threads. If you want to use UNC the proper designation would be 10-24. The 3/16-24 was a stove bolt thread that went obsolete many years ago, about when coal stoves in kitchens fell out of favor.

It would be a fairly simple job to make a straight shank adapter so it could be held in a 30 taper rnd mill holder.

Careful! Some Iowegians get testy over stuff tile that. If it came from Iowa it was probably made by Collis. They were called Use EM Up sleeves. When the tang twisted off a drill or the taper got too messed up to hold in its socket you could grind a flat on the side of the drill shank until it fit in the Use EM UP socket. I am 82 and have only seen maybe 6. Not common anymore.

I think carving the knight using the band saw has a lot more potential for injury than scraping with a knife blade.

Those die cast pulleys are pretty cheap. You might consider buying one with the correct bore. How much is your or your soon to be friend's time worth?

I would use oxy-acy using cast iron rod and ferro flux. Normalize after weldinf.

I have two lathes fitted with Aloris clone tool posts. An advantage to Aloris is the availability of extra tool holders at relatively low cost. The Aloris design is quite tolerant of variations in tool holder dimensions. The Dickson tool holders are more expensive to make than Aloros clones. The Dickson tool holders require the C-C distance of the Vs to be exact for it to fit the tool post.

My vote is for Aloris or its clones.

I have a Dickson tool post and 3 tool holders. It sits on the shelf and will remain there until I need a tool holder of larger capacity than the Aloris provides.

They are all crazy except you and me. Sometimes I wonder about you.

It could be either a planer gauge or a shaper gauge, depending on the size. Some were furnished with a scriber that fit the moveable part so it could be used for marking out. Occasionally I use mine with a sine bar. I set it to dimension with a mike, then use it under the sine bar instead of a stack og gauge blocks.

The standard taper for 1" reamers is 3MT. Instead of turning down a 3MT to 2MT consider buying a straight shank reamer and turn the end of the shank to a diameter that fits your chuck.

It looks like a clone of the US made Burgmaster.

Case hardening is a time sensitive process. The longer you hold the part at temperature during case hardening the deeper the case will be. The compounds like Kasenit or Cherry Red will give a very shallow case due the short time the metal is exposed to the compound.

As a 17 year old I chucked a tube too tight and deformed the end. It had a 40 tpi internal thread. I needed to pick up the existing threads and re-cut them.

If I could do that as a 17 year old with almost no shop experience, you can surely do it on an external thread. Good lighting and a magnifier help. Eliminate backlash in the half nuts by using the feed handwheel to preload the carriage against the direction of travel. Adjust the cross slide and compound until the tool is centered in the existing thread. Then back out the compound to the major diameter. I assume you will be flank feeding using the compound. Then go at it.