Member postings for HOWARDT

Oil and Scotchbrite or wire wool, don’t use anything that will remove metal as you risk changing taper shape. Old machine shops often have rusty looking tapers around, at least they did in my days.

There are numerous videos on YouTube about the right to repair in the USA. Some videos are taken during actual local hearings, as I suppose they have to get it through local consent as well as government. Interesting one about one of the major tractor manufacturers getting shot down by the local repair shop that has to hack the software installed so he can get a tractor running again. Its a lot like the cost of printer ink for a twenty quid printer and you can only use the manufacturers chipped cartridge.

Assuming the cutter is held in the correct size collet, it is held with more than 2/3 length of collet gripping shank you need to look at your tightening torques. According to Regofiix depending on nut size and type you could need up to 105Nm on the nut, and for R8 according to Tormach 25 to 35Nm.

Don't rely on gauges being standard sizes, in production environment gauges are made to suit the process. Gauges are made to suit pre finish sizes, say for a drilled hole prior to finishing where the hole is a non rounded size.

Dependant on age but the colour may be caused by the casing material. I would think an EP90 oil would be acceptable.

Mount cutters can be had with a guide rail, stops and slotted base board, as per John’s photo. The slots in the base allow the blade to fully pass through the material being cut. The stops limit the horizontal travel along the guide, usually used for cutting windows in photo mounts. Cuts can be made vertical or angled, about 45deg depending on the blade holder used.

I placed an order about four weeks ago for some stainless sheet and bar. Ordered Sunday received Thursday all as ordered. So not all negative or was I just lucky.

First check the tapers mate fully, no burrs or dirt. To fit I always separate the adaptor, place it in the female part and strike it on the wood bench so that the mass of the chuck travels down onto the taper.

What cutter depends on material thickness and hardness. I use all three for card, scalpel, rotary cutter (Rotatrim) and mount cutter. A mount cutter will cut vertical or angled through thick card used for mounting things to without any further framing, so probably 2mm +. Rotary trimmer will cut through mount board but is better for 1.4mm than 2mm as well as paper etc. A scalpel will cut through most card thicknesses (including fingers), but difficult to control to get a good edge without repeated low pressure cuts and guidance.

Talking of carrying out Probate, I did my fathers back in 2009 and it was completed within six weeks for just the fee. My sister in-law died the same year, she was single and had HSBC as her executor total cost £12,000 and it took them six months with less to do than I had done as there was only a house, cash in HSBC accounts and a will with two recipients.

I think the request for information depends on the route taken for the person going into a home. When my father went into one he went in from hospital and I sourced the home and signed documents for his care. No financial information was passed either for him or me, he only lived just over a week after going in. When a friend of mine’s mother had to be taken into care due to dementia her husband refused all attempts to reveal his financial position only gave his wife’s. He never paid anything out of his pocket and she lived for some years in care. Read the rules and you follow them, even get legal help, the alternative employ people to give her the care. Our local care system charges £18per hour for in home assistance.

Just remembered I have the original instructions filed with other instruction booklets, WM225/325, single or dual height, along with the jig sheet.

Bernard, things have changed since we used them, original UK sourced were good as were Gurhing. The problem these days is getting tools with known provenance, I suspect a lot of so called named tools come from questionable sources.

I have mine from 1974/5, just missing one of the push in plastic feet but still on the original vice jaws.

Standard twist drill is supposed to produce an H12 tolerance hole, but there are a whole lot of caveats with that. A brand new drill, at least from producers like Dormer, will have an accurately ground profile concentric with the shank. Hole size is assisted with the use of a guide bush held close to the material being cut, and flood coolant to keep the swarf away. This also supposes the drill depth is within the diameter/ depth ratio for the selected drill, and speeds and feed are correct. In an industrial setting correctly setup drills can drill thousands of holes within tolerance. Once we move to the model workshop with drills of unknown provenance who knows what the best bet is for the hole size.

You could try recovery software. Lexar used to supply it free on their cards and you could download it from their site. I think Lexar is now owned by someone else, not checked recently. Recovery software works well and I have used it in the past for other people.

As said previously a certificate of material conformity is a specified requirement for parts in some industries where non conformance can affect the performance of the final part. This is important in parts used in nuclear and flight, not so much in most others. The certificate gives traceability to the initial material melt or whatever creation method so all the materials used are listed. All this checking costs money and in some cases the cost outweighs the part cost so material with certification is kept aside for just a particular customer. As model engineers we just accept material is as stated as so long as it is stainless, or plain steel it doesn’t matter unless another process such as hardening requires it, then all you can expect is the end of the material to be paint coded at best.

As I said previously I use a colour A4 for general text and in addition I have a A3+ inkjet for colour photo use. The inkjet is an Epson fitted with refillable cartridges which after the initial purchase works out reasonable per print. Inkjets aimed at photographic use have more cartridges most have eight or nine to give better tonal range when used with photo papers. I wouldn’t recommend a laser for anything more than document printing and the occasional no critical photo picture. In the past I have had an A2 Canon photo printer but when these go wrong it’s cheaper to buy another than repair and they only work with Canon cartridges at £70 per cartridge x8. Printing is a minefield take the cheapest option that you will use and get larger prints done commercially, you can get an A3 high quality photo print for nt much more than a £1 from specialist printers.

If you an get one buy a second tap, a little less taper lead than a taper tap.

As all said the speed is one factor, but 1 inch steel and 5 inch diameter aluminium you would need some serious holding fixture that slides easily supporting the work both sides of the blade. If you don’t there could be some snatch as the part gets close to cut off. Also the time taken to stand there feeding the material through. Better to get the steel plate flame cut.