Member postings for Peter Krogh

Looks to me like the top cap goes on/in then the sides are staked into the recesses in top to hold it all together.

Pete

That's a beautiful model and it looks to have been run a fair bit. Nice.

Pete

I suspect that this is how it was done. Adding a lever would be easy though.

Pete

Jason,

Got it! I couldn't get an enlargement like you have. I agree with your assessment, especially since it puts the roller back in line with the trunions on the cylinder. That bothered me also.

I'm adding this engine to my build list (which is too long!). While castings would be really nice, bar stock will do a good job also.

Neil, I'm pretty sure how i would do the crank. A bit fiddly but.....

Fascinating engine!!

Pete

I'm a bit confused by the illustration as it shows the 'roller' not engaged in the 'slot'. I don't see any mechanism for moving the 'slot' over to the 'roller' either. ??????

Pete

That looks very like a Hackworth type set-up. The roller in the end of the valve lever would engage the channel located above the bearing/trunion.

It would make a great model!!

Pete

Just about all you want to know is on the Henkel web site:

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/loctite-industrial-assembly-repair-13281.htm

Pete

I believe the first one is used, with a dial indicator that is not shown, for adjusting the cutting tool in a boring bar. The thumb screw with the ball end is used to push the back of the tool bit while the movement is measured by the indicator mounted in the opposite hole.

Pete

Sam, yer killin' me!!

That's so funny 'cause it sounds soooo familiar...

Pete

Very good looking engine. Clean and sweet!

Pete

Those product cards that come in magazines? Approx. 3" x 5"? Gather up a stack and staple 'em together. Perfect for mixing small amounts of epoxy... tear off and toss to get a new surface.

Pete

Pumps don't care which way they are pointed.

Pete

That collar with the hole is the end clearance adjustment for the spindle!! Don't use it to wrench on.

Pete

Thank you for your understanding, Murry. As I get older (I'm only 68!) I have a tendency to react too quickly and write without proper cogitation.

When I was last involved in commercial electronics (board assy and mfg) the change from solders with lead to lead free was just beginning. And I haven't been near it since, so a lot has changed as Andrew pointed out.

You mention valves. What we called tubes.... I left active electronics back when the transistor was taking over. I can still build you stuff out of my head using tubes, but this modern stuff doesn't 'compute' in my brain.

Back then we didn't call our hobby 'electronics', we called it 'radio'.

I remember when the 'horsepower' and 'peak amps' crap started with power tools and appliances. Oh what a bunch of crap!! Still goes on.

I'd much rather have an old motor with a large diameter armature than a new one with a small armature with big wires spinning fast!

Take care,

Pete

Nomenclature between industries is a mess. And when you have many industries/trades/professions represented as we do here......

Sorry to have been so rough Muzzer.

Pete

Many auto parts stores sell air tanks to transport air to locations without compressors. Anywhere from about 2 gallons to 5 gallons size.

Air brushes are very nice to have when painting models.

Pete

I'm kind of chuckling here Simon as that question is the most open ended in the hobby. Sort of like "What's the best, cheapest car for the school run?".

New? Used? Foreign? Domestic? Capacity? Space available? How large is the loco?........

For your second question, it's my opinion that any mill decent enough to do the milling required will also handle any drilling required.

Many others here are much more qualified to answer the first question.

Pete

Aquarium pumps may not do the job; not enough pressure. Air brush compressors will run most small engines but may cycle frequently depending upon the size of the engine and the size of the air receiver. I know guys who use the mini to fill an air tank of some sort so they can run quite a while....

Pete

I don't think I'm reading your post wrong, Muzzer. So I've got to say that you can't read.

The Stay-Bright made by Harris is a 95% tin and 5% silver, lead free solder. It's not a garden variety solder. The lead free crap sold at the plumbing store is tin/antimony and is crap to work with. Tin/Silver is properly known as a 'silver bearing solder', not 'lead free' or 'silver solder'.

The tin/silver was developed decades ago for soldering stainless steel food equipment and is a color match for sstl. It also has a tensile strength of about 20kpsi

I works well on most anything except frog hair, elephant snot and aluminum. Flows at 430*F.

It's a legit engineering material and should not be dismissed. There's no trade secrets and the composition is made by quite a few companies. Probably even a British one.

Rant over.

Pete

Edited By Peter Krogh on 17/06/2016 21:18:01

I've always known them as ball detent screws. I have no idea where to get them in the UK but there are a couple of big tooling houses here that have them in all sizes.

Pete