Member postings for MW

I would admit to having used the 2" sherline chucks in the outside jaws of a 5" 3 jaw chuck, and to be honest I expected to see a runout error of some sort but didn't notice anything unusual, it appeared to turn true by eye atleast.

It's very handy to use for very small work pieces where the bigger chuck would crush the material. You just have to be careful not to damage the chuck you are holding.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 07/04/2017 10:58:21

I think that would be the cost of a solid gold tap follower.

Edited By Michael-w on 04/04/2017 23:03:50

For the stick they get on this forum, Clarke do pretty robust things at low prices, there's no way I could afford to splash 1k on a bandsaw for eg..

If this was years ago I'd have no choice but to hacksaw it.

Michael W

it may be too late for that. I don't think they'd refund it.

Michael W

I've looked at the size again and realized you can't do it without an interrupted cut simply due to the size of the plate, in this case you're better off hacking the edges off and turning the o.d with a turning tool.

Michael W

Well given the large amount of iron that make up steels, it stands to reason that it would maintain some magnetic property even after the inclusion of non-ferrous elements.

Michael W

I'd go for trepanning, less waste involved and can use the corners for bits and pieces.

The only thing you have to be careful of when trepanning large diameters is one can get a bit carried away with the speed and burn the tool.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 03/04/2017 17:45:01

I think you've got it right, the original pound was; eventually the coin makers started to introduce lead and tin into the silver and it devalued the currency to such an extent in the medieval ages, that they were summoned to Winchester and some 60-90 men were severely punished.

Ok, there has been a lot of responses to this, in one case i'm glad but in another sense, my apologies to the OP for diverting the topic of conversation to this, I just didn't think it would generate this much talk at the time.

I'm thankful to all the sensible posters who have come up with what needs to be considered with regards to the inverter, I feel i'm left with a couple of options.

1. Provide an emergency stop directly to the source of the power, namedly an emergency "type" stop to bridge the single phase live wire from the wall socket to the inverter,

providing it does what is intended, it shall provide an almost guaranteed cut-off of power, that much we can be sure of, However, what is not certain, is if the inverter will actually shut off instantly, it actually takes 3-4 seconds to respond to the wall socket being switched off, this would not suffice as an emergency stop if that is the case.

2. Use either the existing connections between GND/24V on the controls, OR to use the free ports to program/remap a new function that interrupts the motor with no coasting time, I have used this inverter control before to setup new frequency from 50hz to 60hz parameters so I am fairly familiar with the jargon and how it's laid out.

I am aware that if I am successful it may not come under the technical definition of an "emergency" stop, but i'm not perfect, the worlds not perfect, and no matter how stupid anyone thinks I am, I did at least try to pre-empt some kind of risk here, as well as an opportunity to learn more about the system, this might lead me to knowing how to rig some L.E.D's in parallel to the system to have functioning lights.

For the ambiguity that I still have in my mind with regards to what route I shall take, I have made sure that the red button twist switch I have chosen, will be able to sustain a thermal current load (I-th) of 10A and 660V, well within the remit of a 7A maximum 2.2KW inverter.

I can't really do much until then but I will trawl through the manual to see what I can gather as to whether a programmable function is doable.

Thankyou,

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 02/04/2017 18:37:04

Before! we drift into the world of pendantry may I remind you this isn't my image, this is transwave converters or power capacitors' image, not mine, yes mine are similar to this, no, nothing has gone wrong because of it.

They manufacture these units commercially, and have done so for a very long time, if they can't competently do it, then maybe you should tell them, because it isn't bothering me or my inverter(s).

In fact, I don't think any of those connections are clamped in the holder, they are simply presenting them to show you where they go.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 02/04/2017 14:53:40

Thanks les, you have pointed me on the right track at least, i'm sure I could try making a diagram of it but maybe I already know now which two connections(brown/white) concern the running of the motor, and logically placing a normally closed switch between it would provide a means of interrupting it. I'm going to stake a bet on that a switch between +24V and the fwd/rvs switch would do exactly that, it isn't a large burden to repair the connection should it prove unsuccessful and the GND could be tried.

The relay has complicated the situation by scrambling the connections between the START, STOP and jog/run toggle switch, I believe this is because when you switch from running to jog mode the pendant is designed to change how the stop function works. In fact the only thing with straightforward connections is the rheostat!

I'm definitely in agreement that the most straight forward option would be between the live wire of the input and the inverter, which would mean the inverter would switch off. However, we would probably need more than a garden variety emergency stop(like a heavy duty, metal clad switch) to handle a large current passing through it and the housing/switch construction would also need to be ground.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 01/04/2017 14:11:29

Cheers, it's good to know you haven't forgotten me yet

Michael W

So Blue, Yellow, Green (10V, AI, GND) All go to the potentiometer which is obscured by the main cable,

White and Grey (S1, S2) are the toggle Switch for FWD/RVS. A third common cable connects this to the stop switch

Pink (GND) connect to terminal on the STOP switch.

This is where it gets messy. Brown (24+) goes to one side of the JOG/RUN, however the second terminal for the toggle has a relay, this connects to both start and stop, through white wires, one going to stop and two white ones going to both terminals for the START switch.

Michael W

And just for good measure i'll show the inverter view again so you don't have to keep going back to look at what it connects to...

Okay,

This is the machine..

This is the pendant front view..

Here is the Inside of the pendant..

I will show you all a picture shortly as I dismantled the pendant so I could show you, it has toggle switches for FWD/RVS and JOG/RUN, the start and stop switches are buttons and theres a vario for speed.

The inverter can reduce it's coasting for start/stop to literally nothing so it just goes dead as soon as you hit stop, (although this can send a backwards current through the inverter due to the fact the machine will still be spinning after the power is dead) The manufacturer recommends that you use a mechanical break, as it does not have the capacity to do that electronically on this model.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 31/03/2017 22:26:49

I would agree, I've definitely heard people talking about using crimps or connector blocks for AC power, although those wires in particular are simply part of the wiring for the pendant and therefore have no direct connection to the power line, i'm not sure i've heard anything about vibration before but this is a stock photo from transwave converters, and that's the way they supply it.

Michael W

Believe me, I wish it was as easy as that sounds.

Michael W