Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Here in the Midlands I use NRS Laser in Tamworth.

The BSA on my Avatar was very incomplete and in worse condition than the Sunbeam when I started to rebuild it.

Lots of happy hours in the workshop have a value to me, sure I would lose money if I sold it but that misses the point.Rebuild for mechanical reliability and safety that will keep its value up and not consume thousands on cosmetics. Do you know if the engine turns ?

Plus one for "The Nipple Shop"

When I was still working I used to buy them under the "Taptite" brand name.

I have an American "Cutwell" (sold by Brierly (sp?) ) 90 psi is required.

I will concur re E93A 8 or 10 hp. I still have a rear hub puller somewhere deep in the workshop. I built a sporting trials car based on an E93A and also used one as a daily driver. Fitted with an Aquaplane hear and a Judson blower and SU carb set up things could get a bit hairy.

I have a spare three jaw chuck mounted on a rectangular plate. I can clamp to mill table or put it into the machine vise. A useful bit of kit.

Welcome along Stuart, I am also in the West Midlands a few miles north of Lichfield. Vintage motorcycles for me I don't make models but find them interesting. Enjoy the hobby and your retirement.

Re vertically mounted pump, on the Eberspacher the pump has to be at an angle to work. Mine is around 60 degrees and works with heating oil and diesel piped up from a floor mounted beer barrel.

For the last 9 years I have used an Eberspacher D5 heater in my garage (double garage full height of the house).

A heath robinson installation done for me by a friend as payment for some machining work. Very good heater enough to take the chill off and be comfortable to work. The heater was second hand and runs from a 240 to 24 volt transformer. Air inlet and exhaust go through the 9" wall to outside and very frugal to run, I use regular diesel, red diesel or heating oil depending on what I can get hold of. Just payed £0,78 litre for heating oil, 50 litres will do two or three winters depending on weather and workshop activity. I believe the exhaust length is critticle for these heaters but that is only what I was told so not sure if true.

When I was managing a mould and die shop we bought a couple of Stanko milling machines. Real big beefy things that replaced Adcock Shipley 2S which was worn out in under two years. The Stanko mills could really shift metal, came well equipped and had a feature to mill a square or rectangular pocket using the traverse switches, Apart from 1950s style electrics that could be troublesome they where good machines. Imported by a company in Warwick (MTA) Maybe Michael's suggestion will show a similar machine to your lathe ?

Welcome along John.

I have a 1920s and a 1930s BSA Sloper and do not think it is one. Genny addition looks home made and the front mudguard looks wrong for a BSA.

Very nice and you do look happy. I doubt you will keep the oil cans on that nice toolbox for long, if they are like mine they will leak and be messy. Enjoy the mill.

Sam, I can no longer post pictures due to complexity of getting my phone and computer to link up.

PM me your email and I will try and send a picture to you.

Chris.

I made my tweezers from a hacksaw blade with a nut and bolt through the holes and a nut as a spacer. This was to remove a splinter from my finger. 40 years on they are still the best I have.

I seem to remember drawing colours/shading in my copy of "Fowlers Machinists Handbook" from 1933.

Next time I am in the workshop I will have a look to see if there is anything to add to the thread.

Looks very much like a shop/home build. certainly not a commercial built job.

Welcome along John, enjoy the forum.