Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Welcome along Jake.

Welcome along Jake.

Welcome along, enjoy the forum. Ask away with any questions there is a wealth of knowledge on here.

Welcome along, enjoy the forum. Ask away with any questions there is a wealth of knowledge on here.

When I ran a Southbend lathe leather belts and the joiners where still available from agricultural merchants and the industrial power transmission suppliers. Try "Fenners" which I believe is now branded as "Erik's"

Castings are still not fettled as yet only the machining is done so they still look rough. I will try and get a picture if I can remember how to post it.

Like Oldiron mine are on a shelf bolted to the splashback. Trouble is the shelf is also handy for lots of odds n sods like boring bars and threading tools. All equals an untidy mess due to lack of personal discipline.

Very nice and a lot easier to machine than the aluminium bronze I have just done a batch of Matchless G15 CSR brake peddles in. The reason I had aluminium bronze castings is that they will bend rather than snap if the bike is dropped. Ali/Brz is not nice to machine.

I suppose it helps running a Bridgeport and a choice of 10" and 14" rotary tables. The big rotary only gets used about once a year but I could not part with it.

I would cheat and profile the diameter very close on the mill/rotary table.

That has roused my memory. It is the James Walker charts I have in the workshop somewhere...…..

No need for a snug fit. The "O" ring needs somewhere to expand into, charts are available showing all the dimensions to use. From memory a 0.070" section seal needs a groove width of around 0.090" and depth of 0.051"

Check the above sizes before committing, it's been several years since I used "O" seals.

I think your problem may be with the "Truncating" of the thread form due to the insert not being full form.

When I screwcut I always end up going a few thou deeper than the book size. Usually get to fit and function rather than measure over wires. Internal threading really requires a gauge that I do not possess.

I once made a bunch of special tools for old series Land Rovers and started to lend them out to folk on a Land Rover forum.

I asked for a £20 deposit to ensure things came back to me but some folk just kept the tools and never answered e-mail chasing. A pity because it was a good service to the forum.

Plus another one for SG cast iron. For one offs I tend to make a pattern from polystyrene and get a foundry about 25 miles away to cast for me. Not the cheapest approach but you are in control of the amount of machining stock left on.

I have seen a "Gates" catalogue giving information on useage. Maybe worth a look online.

I doubt if adjustable reamers go down that small. You will need the 0.05 to make it run easily, the oil/grease will use up some of the clearance.

An interesting subject, I have managed to make a rear carrier for a vintage motorcycle from 12mm diameter x 1.5 mm wall section tube using a cheap DIY plumbers bending kit. I just used the formers for 15mm copper pipe and the results where good with very little if any "Necking".

For bigger diameter tubes maybe one of the motorcycle exhaust pipe makers could help ?

This brings up the old advise not to buy sets but buy individual items as needed.

Andrew, to what purpose do you want the lathe ? Model making/general repairs/car restoration/motorcycle work, clock making or just nice to have. Myfords are very popular and seem to punch well above their weight. To suit the work I do I have a 14"x40" 3HP lathe, overkill for a lot of people.