Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Fizzy, you can most likely use automotive gearbox oil. If you do choose GL4 spec not GL5 which is known to degrade bronze in gearboxes. Lots of threads re these oils on old Land Rover forums, (one of my passions after vintage bikes).

Any "DIN" 68 oil will do. Usually sold as a slide oil with brand names like "Slidex" It is used on Bridgeport and Hurco CNC mills and I use it on the one shot oiling of my Bridgeport turret mill. I scrounge a couple of litres when I call to the place I worked at until retirement. Avoid the model suppliers selling in little bottles, there are cheaper ways to buy it.

I tend to beg offcuts of metal plate from a flame cutting lumsden grinding outfit I bought steel off prior to retirement.There is a fabrication place recently opened not far from me so I will give them a couple of months then knock on the door and ask if I can buy the scrap stuff. Most places will then give you small quantities.

Just checked the places I bookmarked. Auto motion in stock and Kingston engineering. Bothe list screws plus nuts in various materials.

Have you googled lead screws ? Several UK companies list lead screws and nuts at very reasonable prices. I will soon be stripping my lathe to replace the cross slide screw and nuts. A length of acme or trapezoidal threaded bar a pair of nuts and some machining should see the job done. Mine will take a little longer as I intend to make a new Cross slide at the same time.

That is a kind offer Mark. I am far away near Lichfield. Chris.

If you have R8 on your mill, mount the bar say 20 mm in a collet and a lathe type tool in the machine vice on the mill.. You can now turn the outer diameter to 19 mm for the desired length. Cut and face off, bore your pulley fit the bush and bore to 14 mm slot as required. I would just look at the cost of a new pulley first as it may be a cheap option.

I make motorcycle parts on a 14x40 lathe and Bridgeport turret mill. I am sure you will cope with most parts on your chosen machinery. You will struggle however with daylight (table to quill) on the mill if say boring crankcases where the height of set up and tooling are restricted. A friend of mine does use a major for the same work and very rarely does he need to borrow my mill ( I do have a spacer to give increased height). The other frustration you will get on occasion is the spindle bore size on your lathe to pass fork legs etc. through. I did cope for 45 years with an old South Bend lathe similar to your Boxford. Have fun it is a great way to pass the time.

You are right the base is steel. They are "Satin Chromed" to give the nice non glare and long lasting finish.

Where is the location ? I may be able to scrounge the use of a mates cutter grinder.

Take the clamp nut off to ensure the penetrating oil gets in there. It is very simple to dismantle, remember it is only an accurate nut and bolt. I give my micrometers a puff of WD40 + PTFE type spray about once a year, even the little used ones remain free.

Well, I only registered for the forum less than a week ago. My reasons for joining where influenced by the variety of home workshop topics and I really enjoyed reading about Clive's trials and tribulations making his little engine. Even after 50 years in engineering we all have something still to learn. As you say Neil, we only need to read what holds our interest. I will stick around and may be able to pass on some of my experience .

I do not build models, my workshop is for motorcycle related stuff. I get to see a lot of old British stuff and think most oil leaks stem from incompetent people. Witness marks from pry bars/screwdrivers where parts have been disassembled. Fitting a BMW breather valve in the return oil line really helps with crankcase pressure related problems. Chris.

When I worked as a toolmaker making injection moulds for plastic parts many mouldings where drilled after moulding.

The drills used where "Slow Helix" not regular jobber drills and run at around 1500 RPM to suit the ancient machinery in the finishing shop. For production use the drills where flash plated with hard chrome to prolong life, modern coatings will eliminate the plating need. Chris.

Hi Mike, I have been lurking on here a while and noticed some of Bobs posts. Iv'e found my way around the board now that I have registered.

Sadly I will not make the NEC as I am due to visit youngest daughter in London so regards to all there.

Chris.

Hello from a new member.

My main interests are old motorcycles and Land Rovers as well as a passing interest in model making.

I spent my working life as a toolmaker in the Injection mould industry and now my home workshop consists of a Bridgeport turret mill and an Excel 14x40 lathe.

I regularly get castings made for friends and machine sometimes parts for them. The cross over for home workshop is very much as the model engineer.

I have read some of the posts on the site and seem to start reading part way through the banter. Where should I be looking for the start of a thread ?

Chris.