Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Thanks for all your efforts on the board Neil. All enjoy Christmas, I hope to get some shop time in on Boxing day !

I to lust after a Panther ("Big Pussie" One would go well with my BSA Sloper.

I have an "Excalibur" donkey saw and tend to put SAE 40 in it. It is so old it does need the heavy oil.

Yes the smell of EP 90 gearbox oil pervades my workshop. Old Land Rovers tend to use rather a lot of the stuff.

I have not used a Myford lathe but your 0.18mm seems excessive. I would think 0.04/0.05mm to be about right.

Someone with Myford experience will be along to advise. It is normal to lose the centering after undoing the chuck, plus remember the chuck could be over 60 years old as well as the lathe.

Only downside that springs to mind is water contamination. The ethanol content seems to attract water but it would take an awful long time to pit and leak.

Because of limited shelf life I buy little tubes from Halfords. I use it as thread lock and bearing lock/seal, red in colour and can be undone with a bit of effort. From memory around £3.50 I shall be buying some more in the next day or so as I have just run out.

The yellow Starrett and blue Eclipse blades have both been poor over the last few months. I tend to buy 10 at a time so stuck with them if poor quality. My "Donkey" power hacksaw uses Eclipse blades that last well.

The same question from me. I prefer "All hard" blades finding they cut better/straighter and last longer than the flexible ones. Like old school my last few batches have been poor.

Hi Bob, best give a general location for advice on metal purchase. Good luck in finding the right mill, you will enjoy using it. Chris.

If you are close enough to me I will make you one. No charge.

Your biggest trouble drilling Delrin is the drill snatching, keep the tailstock lock on a bit to prevent the drill pulling in.

Good luck with getting it to size, I find that I can measure the stuff correctly and hours later the sizes are all over the place.

Welcome LC. I am a newbie only recently joined after lurking for a while. Bikes are what I do; Pre war stuff for myself and lots of stuff for old bikes and café racers for others.

Thanks Clive, I will wait until my auto electrician mate is over to check it for me. These things go over my head !

Clive, I have wired the Bridgeport traverse to the 0/220 tapping on the transformer and it briefly worked. After a very short time the motor started smoking and stopped. Removing the brushes revealed oil contamination so I have stripped and cleaned the motor, it will still not run but we are on the right track. Time to get my mate over with his AVO and see what is going on. Chris.

As suggested I have done similar on a rotary table but only for grease grooves. The maths get a bit involved but in my case for grease to travel it was not fussy.

In my short time on the board I have never failed to understand any postings. My youngest Daughter edits and writes books; that is what she does well. Just do not ask here to do maths..... What I am saying is we all have different strengths and should not be critical of others. If you can't read it don't bother.

I have operated J&S 540 and 1400 machines for 50 years and never found the need to balance wheels even in a high precision tool room. We set the three weights at 120 degrees mounted the wheel to the arbour and fully dressed the wheel all over. We did have the balancing kit but after dressing never had to alter anything, we had 11 1400 machines and 4 540s each had 10 or more wheel arbours to leave wheels mounted up as much as possible. We used optidress wheel forming and work was checked by shadograph at up to 100 to 1. All in one of the top tool rooms in the UK.

My 2 pennorth, and I profess to no nothing about the workings of electricity. I have a 3HP lathe with a motor that was not 240/440 and a 2HP Bridgeport that is 220/420 (voltages from memory) For cost reasons I bought a Transwave static inverter/converter and had Transwave come out to connect up for me. The lathe was and still is happy running from the set up but the mill would stop after a short time. Transwaves answer was to change to a rotary converter. To costly for me as the static job had cost £400. A friend suggested a cheap Chinese VFD for around £90 wired it up for me and the mill runs perfectly. Recent information from this board and I have the traverse working from 220 volts as well. I would buy the cheap inverter again when I add more machines to the workshop. I would need help in setting them up due to the "Chinglish" instructions.

Kit, I would buy the new centre. There is no way of knowing what work or abuse a used one has had until you use it. I doubt if you will do enough work to wear the new one out.