Member postings for Brian H

Cannot see a makers name on the drill grinding jig but it looks similar the General or Draper or Picador ones and very useful if you have never been shown how to grind drills using the freehand method.

The other items are for making mortices in woodwork. The drill removes the bulk of the wood and the square part acts as a chisel to produce a square hole which can be elongated to produce a mortice.

Neither are worth a fortune but I'm sure that an entry in the classifieds on here will produce a small profit.

Brian

Most bending operations will require the metal to be overbent and allowed, or made, to spring back.

With aluminium in particular, the amount will depend on wether the material is pure aluminium or one of the heat treated alloys.

I would suggest removing the piece of angle iron and keeping a check on the angle with some sort of angle gauge until the correct angle is reached.

Brian

I have a new greenhouse that will be made using thin wall tubes that are pre painted on the outside.

Having had one of these previously, I know that they rot from the inside out. I have an unused can of expanding foam and wondered if this would be suitable to fill the tubes to prevent moisture, or would it be better to use some sort of oil?

Many thanks,

Brian

You will definitely need some thick insulation on the underside.

Brian

I'm beginning to feel guilty for starting this, which seems to have wandered a LONG way off track.

Brian

I know that a scraped finish is traditional but is it really necessary for what you are doing?

Many years ago I scrounged a surface plate that had gotten into the hands of sheet metal workers (never a good idea).

I took it to a small local company that has a Snow grinder. These are large grinders with segmented stones and grind horizonataly. so is perfect for this type of work and they are large so will do the work in one pass, meaning that it is a lot cheaper that normal surface grinding.

You can scrape them in if you have a master table to work from, or use the traditional method with 3 plates but I've never found it necessary as I'm not chasing tenths.

Brian

It would be a shame to spend time and money on the repair only to find more damage afterwards.

Brian

VERY clever, I like that one.

Brian

I used to work in the areospace industry and I doubt very much that subtitution would be allowed by CAA or Mod.

If the aircraft was certified as airworthy and had EasiFlo 2 on it's certificate then that is what must be used.

I came across quite a bit of this in my job e.g.:

A new throttlebox was ordered for a Canberra and it turned out that the plastic handles were made by Raleigh for a kiddies tricycle. It took months to find some and then a box full turned up in an almost forgotten toyshop in Grimsby that had closed years before.

We had an order to make a new pilots seat for an ME 109, fortunately, exactly the same specification aluminium alloy was still available.

It doesn't matter that a better, modern material to a different spec might be available, if it's not covered by the airworthiness cert. then it can't be used.

Brian

Edited By Brian H on 23/07/2021 16:49:34

There is a UK Gov site that advises on the suitability of E10 in your car. I've just checked mine and the site advises that E 10 is suitable for all Dacia petrol engines. I no longer own an Austin Seven so that's one less thing to worry about and I'm hopng that by the time my Dacia is in need of replacing then the battery technology and associated infrastucture will have been improved.

Brian

It looks to me that the threads could be opened up to the next suitable size and fittted with threaded bushes tapped to a convenient size or, fitted with stepped studs where one end is to the size of the opened up holes and the other end is the original size,

It would be interesting to read what others think.

Brian

That would depend on what size the stripped threads are and how close to any edges they are. If you have any pictures to show how close to the edges they are that would help.

As to size, they could be BA sizes but more probably Whitworth or BSF. Whit threads go down at least to 1/16" but taps may be difficult to find unless second hand.

If you could indicate where you are in general terms i.e. Not your full address, then someone on here may be able to identiy what sized threads and therefore suggest a repair method.

Brian

I wouln't mind one of those from Stuarts at £1 10 shillings!

Brian

I thought that Stuarts would be the obvous place to look but the MTB engine is not on their site.

Hopefully someone has one tucked away that you can get a copy from.

Brian

I have used Alum to remove a broken carbon steel tap. It doesn't need to disolve the whole tap, just the tips of the threads and then the rest of it falls out.

I wish you every success with removing it.

Brian

The top one is a knurling tool, the row of cylindrical items at the bottom right are centres, morse taper sleeves and a countersink.. The others are tool holders for small pieces of HSS tool steel except for the one that has a hole in it with a slot and this was for making a fine finish on items, very rarely seen these days.

They won't be worth very much but you could probably make a few pounds in the classified section on here.

Brian

Edited By Brian H on 18/07/2021 15:51:56

Can you indicate what thread and head type. I know that doesn't answer your question but it may help to locate some screws. (It also helps to push your query back to the top of the list!)

Brian

I've been cutting some Iroko wood to turn some pulleys for the 1896 Ford model that I am making.

Not for nothing is it known as ironwood. It's very hard.

I'don't use much wood but when I do I go to Nottingham Hardwood Timber who supply small pieces for pencil makers, model makers, furniture makers and even boat builders.

**LINK**

http://www.nottinghamhardwoodtimber.co.uk/wood-turning-self-select-timber-store/

I have absolutely no connection with this (largely one-man) business other than as a very satsfied customer.

Brian

Hello Ian and welcome.

You might find more info at;

**LINK**

https://groups.io/g/ElliottMachineToolOwnwersGroup

I'm not a subscriber but have used groups io to research other machine tools.

Quote; Won't reducing the bell size to 1/4, increase its pitch considerably? Or would that not matter? End quote.

Absolutely correct Nigel. That why I thought of the idea of using a model railway sound module but in the end I decided that I would prefer one that really worked, albeit with a rather high pitched sound, after all, It will only be used to prove that it really does work!

Brian