Member postings for Simon Robinson 4

Hi

I've been reading about the LNER W1 Gresley water tube fire box boiler. Can anyone explain in simple terms how this worked? 

Also has this design ever been used in small scale coal fired live steam locomotives such as 5" gauge? Is it a complicated boiler to construct compared to traditional boilers? 

thanks

Edited By Simon Robinson 4 on 05/01/2018 17:21:13

Really enjoyed James May reassebler on BBC4. What do you think his next reassembly projects could be? My ideas are.

1) An old manual 'One arm bandit' slot machine, such as a Jennings.

2) A coal fired live steam locomotive such as 3" gauge.

3) An old video recorder such as a Grundig 2000 or ferguson Videostar

4) The logic cabinet of a passenger lift or dumb waiter, relays floor selector etc.

Edited By Simon Robinson 4 on 07/10/2017 23:59:18

Might seem a bit of a dim question but I've looked at loads of pictures and cutaways of the external firebox on Rocket and can't figure where the steam from the water jacket around the firebox goes to. There is a pipe on either side towards the bottom of the firebox water jacket and if it fed up into the main boiler, how would it get into the boiler against much greater boiler pressure? I assume both the firebox water jacket and the boiler would be at different pressures.

Secondly with the pipe exiting the firebox water jacket below the steam line, how does steam get into the main boiler?

Lidl refused to refund me or replace it as they are now a discontinued item

I thought of fixing the bearings but not sure if its worth it for the sake of £16.99 especially if something else goes wrong, motors on these have been known to burn out even on light hobby use like I used it for.

I only had it for less than a few months when it started playing up during a mamod restoration project which has been on freeze until I get a replacement Dremel.

Hi

I was very disappointed after buying a Parkside cordless Dremel like tool from lidl for £16.99. Yes I know you get what what you pay for but this was not good. I only used it on light hobby work and after not long the spindle bearings went meaning the collet and bit wobbled all over the place. I found it very clumsy and not at all precise. My neighbour had exactly the same problem with his, in that the main shaft came loose. Has anyone else bought this tool and had similar experience?

My main point is what is the best make of Dremel like tool to get borsch, draper etc, there are several makes, is Dremel the best of all? I'm even prepared to get a used one as its bound to be better than the parkside on I once got.

Also what common things if any can go wrong with such tools?

(My main use is light grinding, carving and some polishing)

thanks

Hi

This is purely experimental, but would it be possible to convert a Briggs Stratton petrol mower engine into a hot bulb Diesel engine?

My idea would be to make a new cylinder head containing a hot bulb, But what kind of injection system were used in the original hot bulb engines? Is making an injector very difficult in terms of machining etc?

Hi

Please forgive me as I'm a total beginner.

Im in the pre-design stages of constructing a 3.5" gauge coal fired live steam loco. I have not yet decided on the size/ volume of my boiler, but is there any relationship (or ratio) between the volume of the boiler, it's working pressure and the total (combined) volume of the cylinders?

Thanks.

Hi

Ive been looking at a micro lathe to buy and I'm taking a lot of interest in the Sieg C0. (Also known as Axminster C0) I intend to use it for making coal fired steam locomotives up to 3.5" gauge.

Is this lathe suitable for working in steel or iron? Also can a milling attachment be added to it?

Has anyone experience of using this make of lathe?

thanks

UPDATE.

Ive dismissed the £145 lathe and the choice is between a Sieg C0 mini lathe for £280 or an Axminster lathe for £333

any advice on what's the best I'm tempted to get the latter for the extra £53 is it worth paying the extra?

As a beginner in model live steam engineering I'm building up my power tool collection.

What is the cheapest but reliable mini milling machine? (Not CNC) Can such a machine be purchased for less than £300 but be sufficiently robust and accurate for engineering steam loco components?

Also can a milling machine be a substitute for a pillar drill to save me getting one of these too?

thanks

Edited By Simon Robinson 4 on 17/06/2016 22:47:41

Hi

I'm looking to get a lathe for my workshop. I am a beginner to model steam engineering and intend to machine brass, copper, aluminium to the tolerances for making valve chests, pistons cylinders etc.

I saw this lathe on amazon at the bargain price of £145. It's not suitable for iron or steel and operates at 2000rpm.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Miniature-Multifunction-Machine-machine-20000rev/dp/B0135PYM6Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_201_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=5129AgaEdFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=MPKXNCP0BAV0CR0VKRPG

has anyone used this lathe? What are your opinions on it?

thanks

Edited By Simon Robinson 4 on 16/06/2016 22:42:29

Hi

Im a complete beginner to model engineering and have always wanted to build a small 3.5" gauge steam loco.

What are the essential machine tools I need? I know a lathe and milling machine is essential but what else do I need? and what are the cheapest metal working lathes and milling machines for model engineering?

Btw I already have an arc welder.

thanks

Thanks

Thanks

The 2" dia 10g (3.25) is kind of what I'm looking for I'd be looking at 8" in length for the boiler. Would that be a suitable boiler tube for coal firing?

thanks

Hi

forgive me as I'm a beginner.

I want to build a coal fired steam engine boiler of less than 5" in diameter. I've calculated the thickness of the walls to hold in the pressure. I'd prefer to use steel as I'm good at welding, but steel rusts and if its too thick the heat won't get across.

A lot of people suggest copper, but copper is astronomically expensive for a tube of suitable diameter and thickness to make a coal fired boiler.

What other materials would be suitable, can brass be used? I guess that would be cheaper?

What is the cheapest way of building a workable coal fired loco boiler that's long lasting and capable of holding pressure? 

Also where is the best place for materials, I've tried Macc models but they don't give much of a description on the thickness of tubes etc.

thanks

Edited By Simon Robinson 4 on 19/11/2015 15:32:09

Hi

I've worked out that I need 2mm thick copper tube of 4" diameter to make a steam locomotive boiler of 9" in length, for 60psi

How much can I expect to pay for such tube?

Have you any links to places that sell such copper tube?

thanks

Here is a rough sketch diagram of the fire box cross section.

Hi

Im a beginner. I'd really like to build a coal fired steam locomotive. I'm presently at the design stage. I will be working with steel and will be stick welding. I have a few queries.

1) What is the smallest diameter of boiler that can be coal fired? Is 45mm dia too small?

2) With such a small boiler is it still crucial that the fire box is totally surrounded with water as in larger locomotives and that stays are used even if the steel is of substantial thickness?

3) Is 3mm sufficient thickness for the walls of such a small boiler?

My initial designs involve cutting a third of the way into the bottom rear of the steel boiler tube and welding in a square fire box which will extend at least 30mm up into the boiler tube and be 35mm wide and 70mm long. The rest of the box will extend below the boiler but at that point it won't be in contact with water. This bit will include the grate and ash pan.