Member postings for Dave Halford

Ahh! I'll get me coat

Yes but it needs to blow air over the cylinders. fitted back to front it sucks air over the cyliners and nowhere as efficient at cooling

Firstly get a regulator and stop messing with the electrical stop start switch to vary the pressure they are meant to be set just under max pressure at the factory and then left alone. you have been cycling the motor twice as often than it should. These motors are not normally rated for constant running and can cook.

The check the fan is on the right way round some times they go on backwards and errrr suck!

Bit of balance needed.

Anyone remember Datsun as was? The one that rusted so badly the engine and box could fall out as you drove it . Rebrand as Nissan and a coat of paint worked wonders

Or Lancia still not sold in this country after getting the appalling reputation that resulted in a buy back scheme.

Or Japanese bikes, great electrics with dire tyres and a shiny disc brake that never rusted but very unhappy when wet.

And yes everything comes down to money

my neighbour has a black Toyota with some lovely pressure washer marks.

I really wouldn't

Mind you my old man never washed his van and the paint went matt so you pays your money etc

It's sometimes worth washing a suspected bearing in petrol, allow to dry, then spin it with your finger through the shaft hole. a shot bearing will catch or 'trip up' a good one will keep going.

How about the work piece moving?

I have two big lenzkes edge clamps and on only one tee nut each even they work loose and the work can get lifted up.

Or you are re-milling chips already milled off which grinds them into the surface.

I believe Dore Westbury are home built, so accurate? Maybe.

The modern chinese electrics can be affected by damp workshops.

Old british bench mills can be worn and a lot wont plunge due to a lack of quill, but will take a big cut if that's your thing.

The most info on the web seems to be about the Chinese.

Go after which ever bothers you the least.

I went Centec, I've not regretted it.

To go back to original posters question.

You may find interchangeable lenses a bit of a pain after a while.

Watch the shutter reaction times some DSLR's are a bit sleepy like 50 quid compacts are.

Back in the day (80's) I bought some rust inhibit paper.

it still works

No gunge to clean off

I had a Peco once, the perforated tube came loose, and let the wool out and stopped the motor.

You forgot the clip on head rest and Hoddy Patkirk pointy door mirrors.

Oh and the furry dash and headlining.

Those with more sense welded a big windup key to the boot of a Moggy 100 mind you he did only have 2 wheel nuts on each wheel.

The noisy 'cans' still fail the construction and use for aftermarket exhaust and the MOT should weed them out.

assuming they ever get tested of course

Round column mill / drills are a bit wobbly and more drill than mill.

Just get something with a knee.

Benchmaster looks a bit small

Please do some research on Chinese mills before you commit - some don't like the damp .

Ian

It's already been burnt once.

The rock wool worked for my mini boiler with above small burners - noticeable difference.

Que 1970s Skoda jokes

If you can find some rock wool insulation it will help a lot being as it doesn't melt at 700C. Or you can try vermiculite or perlite from a garden center. Any of will beat a barrel of coke.

Edited By Dave Halford on 31/03/2016 20:14:12

To right it does, any grease in that is likely to be halfway to solid if it's 30 years old or more. Take an old Centec apart and you'll see. Two days soaking in petrol and you still need to scrape lumps of it out.

Mind you I have an old B&D 7" metal angle grinder that shrieks like a banshee and has done for the last 18 years of occasional use. Still I don't care if it does seize as it only cost me a fiver.

Check that cross vice for square under drill pressure, it might be going out

which is pretty much what Phil P said above.

Edited By Dave Halford on 28/03/2016 20:46:29

This wouldn't be a drill with an unusually high set of speeds would it?

The only drill without slots I've ever seen was a high speed one meant to use very small drill bits. Sometimes known as a sensitive drill.