Member postings for pgk pgk

Retirement and the big 60 has made me meaner when it comes to spending on stuff I can create. My sheds whole run of kitchen type units and worktops were DIY from MDF sheet. It can end up as strong as you want especially when held with brown glue.

Half the hobby shed run visible below

On a small span like that that you can create a cheap and rigid open 'cabinet' with concrete blocks and scrap kitchen worktop and a few wall fixings to bolt it all together.

I'd be bribing one of your workplace machinists with a bottle of hooch to come round and find the problem or you own a shed ornament.....

Just the other day i was thinking of making up some U-channel to hold thinner section HSS but support it since it's only the cutting edge that does the work and it'll save some grinding time...?

taper gauges?

I believe it's possible to get combination drill and taps - save even more time?

I've not tried it on metal but I wanted a durable smart finish for outdoor use recently and used a can of modern gloss applied with a gloss roller rather than brush (2 coats over primer) and then followed with three coats of yacht varnish. It's a pain waiting for each layer to be fully dry and hard but the end result means that any ingrained dirt or scuffs just mean sanding off the top varnish layer(s) and refinishing....and the UV protectants should keep the gloss colour bright for longer?

I'm not sure what you mean by revolving shaper except perhaps low speed scrape cutting?

The problem with using the 4-jaw (apart from potential issues replacing the gap) is that I'd need a back filler plate for the 4-jaw that's adjustable for different plate thicknesses (which means pratting about adjusting it) or setting the plate up on temporary parallels in the chuck..and I find that it's gripped just by one tooth of each chuck jaw and I've had a plate loosen like that with a dig-in on the inevitable intermittent cuts of a rectangular plate.. neither method would give as regular a plate thickness as holding it down to a freshly skimmed faceplate?

I have an abundance of hot-roll plate curtesy of local scrappy but facing/thicknessing it in my mill without powerfeed is tedious and either messy with a flycutter or lots of toolmarks with the endmill sizes i have.

I get a much better finish on the lathe on smaller pieces but thinner and larger pieces in the 4-jaw I'd have to remove the gap to clear the jaws.

So I wondered about cutting some shallow slots into the edges of the plate and making up some low profile grips with countersunk heads to hold the plate to the faceplate.

say 150mm x 150mm 8mm plate with a 2mm wide 2mm deep slot in each edge with a 6mm thick holddown clamped through the faceplate so that i could skim as much as 1mm off each face and end up parallel?

The question is would that hold securely enough on cuts heavy enough to get through the millscale without the plate leavng the lathe and brown trousering me? Or is there a better way? Direct bolt-holes through the plate would lead to lots of waste to cut away.

I've been working away at this for some weeks. (i'm sure you guys would have knocked it out in a weekend )

I have just the dial ring to engrave - when I've figured how to do it.. And the tool holder to make. And polish everything.

Does anyone have a recommendation for the indexable tips to use here. I read that as triangular with a 16mm edge length but any advice as to tip radius etc for steel and for ally before I drill the wrong fixing hole?

Two problems I've met building this: The length of 6mm thread that holds the adjusting screw and dial ring as given isn't long enough to allow for a locknut. I solved that the lazy way by rebating a 12mm hole in the top of the adjuster to sink the locknut.

Second issue is my reading of the plans and I've ended up with the gib strip opposite to the adjusting screws.. fixable by redrilling the end plate holes to the other end but annoying.

This is quite a heavy item. I elected to make the main block out of ally with cast iron bushings to save some weight and i guess one could have shaved some more weigth by drilling out the shaft and making an end cap - or tube and two end caps?

http://home.scarlet.be/mini-draaien-frezen/engels/project-13.html

pgk

When the penny finally dropped in my brain and I realised that i could shove my mills ER32 MT3 collet holder into the 5-3MT adapter and shove that in my crusader lathe I've been using it quite a bit.

The only downside to the MT holder system is limited insertion distance.

I didn't know ER40 went as big as 1 and 1/2 inches? Can i also ask which collet chuck you sourced to fit the crusader?

Just call it Eric..

Perhaps something from radio control hobby stuff? Modern transmitters are sending digits which should give better security against interference and a receiver with servo is efefctively a potentiometer? Perhaps even at the really cheap end of short range infra red controllers?

That is the elder son of Sir Jeffery Ffactoryowner demonstrating the capabilities a t'South Lancashire Agricultural Exposition after two or three 'stiffeners' in t'beer tent to calm his nerves.

it;s about 5/6yrs ago that i set up a joomla site.. so if I can figure it out I;m sure a bright bloke like you will ('cos my memory of how i did has faded). The problem at the time was joomla turned out not to be secure enough and it got hacked, blocked by google as a result and the whole thing turned into a nightmare.. probably why now they've improved the update system. As I recall it was very permissions based and heirarchical - forever having to manually change the priority order...

pgk

Sorry, didn't make myself clear - with a view to identifying it , not scrapping it.

far from it.. seriosuly would be dangerous to try. Local scrappy mate popped round today to take a look.. since he's seen most farm and cottage machinery around here but the Welsh heavens re-opened beyond any desire to plod 1/4 mile in it. If I ever find an answer I'll post.

(at the moment he has an ancient myford wood lathe.. with no tailstock, head plate or tool post but with an interesting planer attachment on the back of the headstock end. I think he said he listed on ebay)

According to **LINK**

A craftsman's daily wage 1929 was 75p.. so a week's wages for that set of taps/dies.

...should have outsourced them to china...

No tarp and no roof for the last couple of years. Rescue would be dangerous. Access through the stone doorway.. not enough room to manoeuver a tractor outside to tug it out and stay clear of the walls and the ground drops off at the front. it'd have to be seriously prized and justify demolishing the wall behind it - or loft it out with a tracked cherry-picker..

..or take a chance and pull the end wall off and hope the rest don't collapse onto it.

I suspect it's a special size only known to the mystical order of diabolic plumbers and fishplate polishers.. Grr

I suppose a few shreds of ally drink can stuck inside a socket might work or epoxy one on overnight???