Member postings for thaiguzzi

MY serial no. = 1969 manufacture.

A pin/peg spanner is a helluva nicer way of doing things than a hammer...

"Like" button pressed.

+1.

Wot he said.

Many years ago, i had to adjust the pre load on my headstock spindle bearings on the Boxford VSL.

Adjusted they were, with a pin punch and hammer, and on that day, an adjusting / tighten / loosen peg type spanner was added to my to-do-list.

Fast forward many years, and i finally got round to making it.... works a treat.

As Hollywood movies go, that was up there with the best of them, even the shed scenes were great.

It's all in the wrist action...

Had the Hemingway Kits sensitive knurler (Marlco copy) kit under the bench for 3 odd years. Thought i'd better make a start.

I've got two knurlers, both are swivel head 3 pairs of knurls type, one a J&S, the other Pratt & Whitney, worked great on Students back in my Blighty workshop days, shanks ground down, and are a bit "beefy" (3/8" wide knurls) for my Boxford and i get inconsistent results.

So, the HK knurler needs narrower knurls, 3/16" according to the drawings. I thought 1/4"will do.

Made a fixture/mandrel for the Stent T&CG workhead.

Spent about 4 hours over 2 afternoons grinding 6 knurls down from 3/8" to 1/4" wide.

That's 0.0625" per side. At about 3-4 passes per thou......

Just read he's broken a record. Unfortunately the motor is one of the new liquid cooled DOHC Scouts. They go fast straight out of the box.

Unlike Bert's 180 odd mph record on a SIDE VALVE based m/c....

Edited By thaiguzzi on 23/07/2017 05:25:08

Thanx for that, interesting, i will check it out. Hopefully a vintage SV Indian motor, rather than one of the new (OHV, DOHC) ones.

Were they powder coated by then?

I'm sure my 79 T140E was either stove enameled or 2 pack. Either way it was'nt great paint.

Good.

Now take the bar out, slacken the jaws, and do it again.

And again.

After an hour or so, everything will become 2nd nature, and you will be dialling in round bar to less than a thou within a couple of minutes.

Poor prep work and/or crappy powder coaters.

Good quality powder coating is about as good as it gets for stuff like m/c frames or custom car chassis. Certainly tougher, and more corrosion resistent than stove enamel. Should be able to hit it with a hammer, spanner, ratchet and nothing happens. The bike in my avatar was powder coated about 16 years ago. Everything, and i mean EVERYTHING on that bike is powdercoat. Frame, s/arm, wheels, forks, mudguards, all tinware INC the tank!! Scratches, patina, bruises sure. But no coating has fallen off or even started to.

Back to the topic, no i would not recommend powder coating on a lathe hand wheel....

Just seen the photo, if that is a one piece handle with the graduated lines and numbers and does not come apart, the polishing and plating process will make a mess of those lines and numbers. Unavoidable.

Very nice. Right up my street. Sort of stuff i used to have in the house back in Blighty days.

Hard chrome plating = think hydraulic rams, m/c fork stanchions. Ground to size post plating

Decorative chrome plating = shiny things, think m/c headlamp shells, car door handles, even... lathe hand wheels.

Me, if the component to be chromed is a part of an original, valuable item i'd re-chrome it. If not, and good quality replica items are available cheap, i would'nt......

1. Chemically strip.

2. Polish.

3. Replate.

A high quality job needs all 3 processes above to be top notch.

No 3 will be crap to look at if No. 2 has'nt done a good job, regardless of the quality of the plating.

High quality triple chrome plating is never cheap because of the 3 processes above, the chemicals, the H&S, and the experience of the workers.

A lot of people still think "give it a quick dip and it'll come out like new" is what is involved. Could not be further from the truth...

Full access here in TH via Mozilla.

This site needs saving!

Look at it EVERY day.

Bought a bunch of stuff off it over the years inc my Boxford shaper.

For what it is, it's the most useful buy and sell machine tools, workshop stuff, measuring equipment et al etc etc in the UK IMHO.

Very clean. Hope you got the vice with it.

Also leave enough access to the door for stroke adjustment. Unlike others posted above, mine is stroke adjustment door side against the wall, just enough space to get at it.

Agreed.

That dovetail damage must have been a good crash.

And boy, when shapers crash, do they C R A S H...

Tell me about it!

My Ford 4000 used to take 30 odd litres in the gearbox and another 20 in the rear axle/diff for hydraulics. That's 50 litres of ISO32 per oil change. Currently have a little Kubota and that takes 18 litres per fill.

+1.

EXACTLY wot he said. Just buy a gallon (5 liter) can of hydraulic ISO32 w oil. Cheap as chips at a large commercial auto parts handler. You will go through the stuff if you lube everything with it inc ways etc.

Do NOT waste money on small bottles of the above, nor buy any engine or transmission oils.