Member postings for Nick_G

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One again Dean you have stunned us all into silence through sheer awe with your vision and skill.

Nick

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Hi Martin,

Can you please take a photo and post it of the area that has this 1mm ish gap.

Nick

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OK so I presume you know what you are doing and 'over engineering' ain't a bad thing.

I am certainly far from being knowledgeable on heat treatment but I would think that a case could be argued that making it too hard could cause it to become brittle and liable to fracture especially if not of equal over the whole length as I imagine that could cause stress points. - But someone with far, far more knowledge than I have will be able to inform more.

Nick

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OK it was your choice and your money to do with what you wish.

I presume that you have hardened the threads after being cut with heat treatment though.?

Nick

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A friend of mine has 5 capstans in his workshop. They are a mixture of Herberts and Wards. I will see if any are a 2C and if he has a manual for it as I know he has a filing cabinet full of manuals for different machines.

Nick

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IMHO silver steel is overkill. EN8 should be more than enough for the job.

Nick

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You will get nothing like that from a hobby sized lathes that most of us here use.

I have a Boxford and in normal use it makes less noise than a dishwasher and certainly does not vibrate to that degree even on interrupted cuts.

I recently have also been using a Colchester Triumph which is a reasonable sized lathe and far bigger than any hobbyist would normally use (it's not mine) and that is also very quiet and smooth running.

I would think that the noise and vibration was coming from some other machinery than one of the lathes that was next door to you.

Oh and if machining a lot of Delrin inside your house make sure you have a good hoover handy or your other half will wait until you are sleeping and drive a long bladed knife between your shoulder blades.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 28/07/2017 20:33:18

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Hi Mark,

For my first build I made a Stuart 'James Coombes' engine.

There is lots of different techniques required to make the engine but nothing too demanding so I found it a good project to practice initial skills upon. - IMHO it's also an interesting engine to look at with quite a few visible moving parts and will run nice and slowly.

There is basic turning, milling, taper turning etc, etc which is all good practice.

I just wish they also made a 1/6th scale one also in addition to the 1/12th scale that is produced. (I can hear Jason's voice telling me to fabricate one. . )

I made a build log here :- **LINK** if you are interested.

Whatever you choose enjoy yourself.

Nick

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Bit confused here. (or a grumpy git)

But I totally fail to see how an item having to be refunded twice then eventually arriving three months later warrants the title of good service.? - The only good thing about it is 'seemingly' you now get it free.!

Please scratch the above remarks if your OP was posted tongue in cheek.

Nick

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'Knowing what I know now' in relation to a few years ago I would say one of the most important specs on a milling machine is the distance from 'Spindle to bed'

This being due to once say an ER type collet holder and a decent vice has been added the available working space can be reduced considerably from what you thought you had available. - Start adding a rotary table with a chuck mounted on it and the distance is reduced even more.

This may or may not be an issue depending upon what you intend to machine upon the mill. But I would say one always needs more capacity than one 'initially thinks' they do.

Nick

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Made a 1" mandrel so that I could remount the wheels and get a full pass on the outside. A 16mm thread was cut to hold the wheels secure.

All 4 wheels were turned to 5" diameter.

Edited By Nick_G on 26/07/2017 16:51:15

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Do you actually need the gearing.? (for torque reasons)

What I am trying to say is how about a 6 speed with a 3 phase motor fitted and driven via a VFD to slot into speeds between gears.

Nick

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Great video of using what appears to be a section of old railway line. (looks very nice quality stuff to machine)

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Why not use a fly cutter in the mill you have.? - That way it's done on one sweep of the tool.

I have had very nice results on cast iron doing such on both cylinder port faces and bed castings.

I have also found using this type of tool works very well in a fly cutter upon cast iron.

Nick

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They will be useful for 2 things.

1) Strapping together and using as a boat anchor
2) For using as counter weights in sash windows

There is however a 3rd use and that is for whacking people over the head with. But I think society takes a dim view on things like that.

Nick

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Hi Derek,

I was replying to Andrew.  [ edit :- just seen original post date]

But having said that anyone is welcome to some if they have no handy source of their own. - It's only going to end up in the bin.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 22/07/2017 13:16:38

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I am working with cast iron ATM. By the time I am finished there will be a bucket full.

Send me your address via PM and I will post you a handful.

Nick

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Golly. That is nearly as long ago as the original thread was started.

Nick

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Yes it is nice stuff.

I like machining cast iron while others hate it as it can be such a dirty material to work with.

Others will know far more than me but I have found that a good sharp tool and getting stuck into it with a decent depth cut so that it makes chips and not dust gets rid of the mess issue considerably.

Nick

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OK this is not strictly model engineering but it's still quite small scale and the principles are the same so may be of interest to some here.

My machines are presently installed in my mate Denis's workshop as I had to move out of mine. - Quite a few people offered storage for me until I get a new place sorted in garages, steel containers etc. but I figured they would be kept in best condition in an oily working environment rather than a damp garage or a container full of condensation. ........... Plus I can still use them and have access to all his other machines. (90% of which I have no idea how to use)

Anyway. He has half a dozen static engines that he bought years ago and never done anything with. One of them is a Wolseley that a previous owner had put plastic wheels onto the trolley of. He had bought 4 cast iron billets years ago to make 4 new wheels with but never got around to making them. ........ I said I would.

On strip down it became evident that new axles would also be needed.

The cast iron stock. - Amazing that although they have been dumped on the floor or the workshop for years they show no signs of rust. I don't know where he got the stock from but they must have a very good saw as they were incredibly square and only varied in length 3 thou between the 4 of them.!

Into my little Boxford.

Faced off 8 sides.

Machined a recess into them - Well I have actually only done one so far.!

Drilled and reamed to 1"

The bored I will make a bearing for to take a 3/4" axle. Probably no bearing on the original but using one will not do any harm and is good practice for me to make. The originals would also probably have had a deeper recess and even possibly also have had holes. But these ones ain't going to do.!

Nick

to be continued ............