Member postings for Nick_G

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Youtube will give the easiest ways to understand the principles in a diagramatic form. (lots of videos there)

Here is one of a very simple 'Double acting' engine.

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Michael. If you are reading this I am going to set my alarm and phone you up at 3:30am every day until you return.

Nick

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I would say that Michael is one of the key members of this site.

I remember when I first started model engineering about 3 years ago he was very helpful both via the communication systems on this site and also via telephone calls on countless occasions.

Nick

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I agree.

Very helpful chap and easy to talk to on the phone also.

Michael is the Messiah

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Are the pully's tight.?

You also want a bit of play in the belt. - I think there is about 3/8" in mine.

I see that the change gears as you say are not revolving. I presume this is because the selector is in neutral.

The selector lever (the one in the middle) needs to be over to the right for normal feeding. I am presuming that yours is set on 0.?

If it is on Zero make sure the clutch lever or the 1/2 nuts on the saddle are not engaged or when you start the rascal it will automatically run into the chuck if a high feedrate is selected.

This should then turn the changegears. But as the changegears are not turning ATM that cannot be where the vibration / rumble noise is coming from.

Has the lathe been stood for a long time.? - Possible the belt has formed the shape of the pully's in 2 places.

Nick

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I will embed in the youtube video you sent me a link to :-

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I did not mean the motor noise. It was something additional.

But I do know on mine that the change gears incorrectly set can make noises of varying types depending on if there is too little or excessive clearance between them. Can also effect surface finish on the part being turned.

Easy to adjust and lube though. - Get yourself a can of motorbike chain lube as its a none fling lubricant and is ideal for those open gears.

Nick

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Now don't get jumpy or panicky. ................................ Yet.

But on that video it was not the motor noise. It just on the whole sounded a bit 'rumbly' somewhere than the one I have.

Maybe the video audio or something as simple as the change gears having the incorrect spacing and want a tad of adjustment.

Nick

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What will they want a picture for.? ...................... If as usual they will have had all the plans before the shipyard did.!

Nick

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If the OP so strongly about it presumably he will not mind putting his hand deep into his pocket to purchase 'Satisfactory' ones made by Mitutoyo then.?

Nick

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What that man said.

Nick

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My X10 has a bearing also. - I presume that this may be an undocumented modification by Boxford.

My advice would be clean it, relube it and pop it back leaving well alone.

Nick

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Oh.!

Nick

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I may be wrong but I 'think' I have a recollection of the OP asking or being involved in the same question this time last year.??

Nick

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2 'spy glasses'

Is one for the headstock and the other for the gearbox.?

Nick

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I have an as new condition Burnerd Multisize in a D1-3 mount that I may be persuaded to part with.

Nick

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Any reason Bison is not listed.?

I have both Pratt and Bison chucks bought as new items. It pains me to say it as a 'Brit' but I personally prefer the Bison over the Pratt.

Also I thought that a 125mm chuck was the standard size on X10 series machines. - Depending upon what you are making bigger isn't always better.

Nick

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You don't.!

It's part of the main spindle and made as one piece. Unless there is a very, very good reason leave it alone.

Nick

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Presumably the 'N' terminal has 3 wires connected to it. Yes / No.? (bit misleading as N normally denotes neutral. but in this case they have probably used a universal connection plate)

If so you need to disconnect and separate those three wires on the N terminal. You will then ideally need a Megger / insulation tester. If you have not got one a continuity tester of some form will do. - Just to be on the safe side of caution don't use a high voltage insulation tester with the inverter connected. Probably be OK but some electronics don't like voltage shoved the wrong way up their chuffer.!

What you need then to do with the tester is identify the other end of the windings for A, B & C ( given depending on maker any designation but usually U, V, W, or X, Y, Z. with a 1 or 2 after the letter. Does't matter really it's just a way of ID-ing them.)

Once you have the winding pairs connect as follows. :-

What you have ATM is the star connection with the N being the common bond of W2, U2, V2

Nick

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Hi Lee,

I don't think I made a post about fitting the inverter to my X10 series lathe.

But I can tell you it's a Mitsubishi one purchased from Newton Tesla in Warrington.

There are several ways that are popular to control the inverter.

1) By the butons on the unit it's self. - This is far from ideal as the unit will get covered in grubby oil and crud from your fingers.
2) Most suppliers will provide an option of a remote pendant type control. - This is the easiest option and a good one that is taken by many people. You could of course make your own as one pays a premium for the supplied ones.
3) I stripped out the existing control circuit wiring and reconfigured it so that it latched relays / contactors interlinked with the forward and reverse controls. The advantage of doing this is that one uses the existing original switches, buttons and kick bars that the lathe was supplied with. No advantage electrically but IMHO it looks far neater.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 20/06/2017 14:00:44