Member postings for Martin King 2

Hi all,

Just sold my ML7 and have got a very nice Super 7 with Gearbox and VFD which is a joy to use.

For the first time I can get around to the many thread jobs that I have waiting. Have cut a few practice external threads using the gearbox with no problems.

Now I have to make several screw in filler caps for various oil cans that are missing them, most are 26tpi brass. My question is how do I calculate the diameter that I machine the bar to before cutting the thread? These are all different sizes, the first is 0.866" diameter for the internal female part as shown.

I presume there is a formula for this? Will it be the same formula for Whitworth Metric BA etc?

Cheers

Martin

Hi All,

Someone has kindly offered to take a look at the whole unit for meto see exactly how much damage I have caused.

Doubltless we will see the resuklts of the post mortem here later on.

My grateful thanks to all who have tried to help me with this, very much appreciated.

Regards,

Martin

Marti W - no lights at ll when powered up.

Have taken some more pics as requested, many thanks to all for helping me out here,

Paul L in Australia has kindly sent me some manuals and wiring diagrams, looks like Finnish to me

These show the small labels, I have turned them round the best I can.

Wider shot as requested, tried to move some of the wires to make it clearer.

ditto

back of board, no damage that I can see?

Martin

John R, PM sent

I will remove the board tomorrow and post pic of the back side

Hi Les,

"Martin does not seem to have respect for the dangers of mains electricity."

Not lack of respect but shear forgetfullness and stupidity, in a hurry to get on etc, hence in thread title Mea Culpa. My location is South Dorset

Mains plug fuse OK and replacement fuse all OK.

Russell: I do not have the skill to check this sort of thing and clearly a little knowledge is dangerous. Way out of my depth here!

Would anyone be interested in me sending them the board to look at and I would be happy to pay for any repairs and time and postage etc?

Regards,

Martin

Hi All,

I realy should not be allowed near anything electrical!

I have a power X axis feed on my Warco 18 Mill which I got in a clearance from Axminster a while ago, made the bracket etc and installed it. Worked just fine and tranformed the machine into something a pleasure to use.

I did not need and did not fit the Limit Switch unit and just coiled it out of the way.

After a while there was an intermittent fault where the feed would only work one way and not the other. This turned out to be a dry joint in the limit switch box which was fixed by giving it a 'wiggle'. Worked for ages after that.

I removed the small switch buttons to stop them accidentally getting knocked.

Yesterday I was using the mill all morning just fine, then dropped something and jarred the limit switch which brought the fault back so thought I would fix it once and for all and resolder the joint properly.

STUPIDLY I did this wihile the mill was still connected to the mains! Small puff of smoke from the joint , fuse in unit blown, me VERY angry.

Changed the fuse but now nothing works at all on the feed unit.

Have tried the limit switches in all possible positions but no go.

The board is marked SIEG MACHINE and does not appear to have any black or sooty spots on the front, have not looked at the back as noit easy to get to.

HELP NEEDED please!

I think the unit is now discontinued but I know SIEG is still around.

Regards,

Martin

Boot or shoe stretcher, nice one . Have had several of these and if by a bespoke good shoe firm can make up to £20 for a pair.

Martin

Hi All,

I have several Ni Cad DeWalt 14.4V & 18V batteries which are pretty much shot.

What is the (safe) procedure please for shorting them out to 'rejuvenate'? I have heard of this but not sure it is true?

Generally speaking electrics and I are not friends!

Regards,

Martin

I've had a couple of Arcoy dovetailers and they sold very well.

Martin

Hi All,

Redid this post as it might be lost on the other thread.

I recently bought a large lot of circular slide rules at auction and was just going through the few that remain and came acroos this 4 page FEARNS-MEAR technical leaflet about Worm Gears. Sadly the slide rule it goes with is missing.

Reading this thread it may be of use to someone, if so please PM me with your addressand I will send it on.

Regards,

Martin

Hi All,

I recently bought a large lot of circular slide rules at auction and was just going through the few that remain and came acroos this 4 page FEARNS-MEAR technical leaflet about Worm Gears. Sadly the slide rule it goes with is missing.

Reading this thread it may be of use to someone, if so please PM me with your addressand I will send it on.

Regards,

Martin

+1 for a DVD

Martin

Hi Andrew, FWIW the correct colour code for 'Myford Grey' is RAL 7100. I personally hate the hammered finish and have never thought it was original and have gone for plain grey which I get mixed at my local piant store for about £11 a litre as opposed to the 125ml tins from Myford at God knows how much! Looks great.

Regards,

Martin

Hi Russell.

I have a 6 litre heated unit from Allendale and use it on an almost daily basis for old lathe parts and anything that is greasy and dirty prior to refinishing.

I use water and a large dash of Fairy liquid. Results are excellent, particularly for getting old paint off, couple of hours on hot and it just scrapes off easily.

Periodically i empty out the 2" of crud in the bottom, wipe out with kitchen roll and run round the tank with a cloth soaked in acetone, comes up like new! Get the basket, really usefull. For small parts I use one of those tiny tea ketle like tea holders and just chuck it in.

If I need to use another solvent I put the in a jam jar with the parts and drop the jar in the water, has the same cleaning effect.

Great bit of kit, I am thinking of getting a bigger size one soon.

Cheers,

Martin

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies,

Yes it does already have a speed control but the slowest is still way to fast and causes burning.

As I thought the motor will be going too slow to be cooled.

Hand sanding is obviously an option but difficult access to the corners etc which the file reaches nicely.

Seems like my idea is a non starter! Never mind!

Regards,

Martin

Roger, thanks for that. As I am so out of my depth with electronics my concern is how safe these things are in use for the file and the user. The file needs to go really slowly.

Martin

Hi all,

I need to slow down a Powerfile by a lot to stop it burning the material being sanded. I have almost zero knowledge of electronics so cannot build anything. Is there an off the shelf unit that would do with damaging the file? The slowest speed on the unit is waaaay to fast.

Regards, Martin

Hi All,

Anyone got any thoughts on the VW Tiguan 2.0HD? A pal has the Toureg but too big for us so maybe the Tiguan looks a good bet. We normally run £2k cars then throw them away but now we are looking to spend £15k and have some comfort and be a little higher up in the air! Other contender is Honda CRV?

Regards,

martin

I found one at Axminster in their machinery sale each year for about £150 and an easy mod with help from here made my WM18 soooo much ncer to use.

Martin