Member postings for Nick Hughes

Reaming, i was taught that as a general rule/good starting point for steel is 3% of the Reamer diameter, for the Stock allowance (e.g. for a 3/8" reamer the hole should be 0.364" [0.375 x 3 / 100 ]). If the hole is only drilled and the 3% calculation results in an odd size then for softer materials use the nearest Smaller drill and for tougher materials, then use the nearest Larger.

As for using drill shanks to check hole sizes, be careful, HSS drill bits are tapered over their length, but Solid Carbide are generally parallel.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 17/10/2015 10:49:55

After fitting a Newall DRO to my Myford Power Cross Feed Super 7 earlier this year, I needed to re locate the Saddle Lock (as the mounting brackets for the DRO covered the original position). So made this last week and fitted this morning:-

Edited By Nick Hughes on 10/10/2015 11:21:23

The other thing you're up against is that the smaller bar ends are not individually painted (and 1" Dia is considered small), but the whole bundle of say 100 bars is done as if it was a large single bar. So for a two colour code e.g. Brown/Green, depending where the bar is taken from the bundle, it could have either a Brown, or a Green painted end. This of course means unless the bar is re-painted after removing from the bundle, then just checking the colour code charts would lead you to think that the bar was either EN24T (Brown) or EN1A Freecutting (Green) rather than EN24 Annealed.

Note:- the above colours are from the Parker Steel Colour Code Chart.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 22/08/2015 16:52:21

I have the Aa size on my Super7. (from Rotagrip)

Nick

Looks to me that you have the air feed crossed. Just move one side to its opposite port, (so that both sides are fed either in each top or each bottom port, but both sides must be the same).

The 90 deg crank is only for self starting (and you'll still need to alter the feed as above).

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 30/07/2015 16:55:14

Hi fizzy,

Polly Model Engineering have the drawings (50p each) and both the springs and balls for each variant of the Soft Pop safety valve design by Gordon Smith, in their current catalogue.

Nick.

When I was after some "slices" of steel tube, to make the tyres for my Castle, Steel Express:-

http://www.steelexpress.co.uk/non-ferrous/stainlesssteel-seamlesstube.html

came out the cheapest (link should take you directly to the stainless section).

Nick..

Edited By Nick Hughes on 05/07/2015 16:21:44

John W1,

Reading mick's earlier posts, I think he meant 0.040" deapth of cut.

Nick.

The adjustment is not at all difficult to get correct and because you seem to be going around in circles, I would suggest taking the spindle out again and double checking that everything is in it's correct place and orientation (i.e. a missing woodruff key that should be in the spindle by the taper).

It does seem to me that the drive you have now is only through friction and not a positive mechanical drive.

And just for the pedants on here, I know the belt drive relies on friction to work.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 22/06/2015 15:16:24

I too always bought Britool spanners and sockets, but not any more, as they are now made in the far east and sold under the "Britool Expert" banner.

The British made Britool can still be found as NOS, but it's getting harder to find.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 21/06/2015 14:09:48

Try it on here:- **LINK** (it's not just a welding forum as you'll see).

Nick.

Helen at **LINK** has a good reputation.

For a welded copper boiler, try these:- **LINK**

Nick.

To unblock the blower nozzle/jet I use one of these:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRIMUS-96-97-STOVE-PRICKERS-JET-PRICKERS-KEROSENE-STOVE-CAMPING-STOVE-/251847536883?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

(I would think that a similar item is available over there), used with the blower valve just SLIGHTLY open or open at low (15 psi) boiler pressure, so that the blockage tends to get pushed out of the nozzle/jet, rather than in.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 22/05/2015 17:11:54

Right,lets just dispel the myth that you'll get "Arc Eye" if the lens fails to Auto Darken, you won't!

For the same reason that you won't get a suntan when sunbathing behind glass, The UV rays are absorbed/blocked by the glass/lens in it's "Clear" mode

You can get the Dazzled blind spot from the arc brightness (that gives a good excuse for a brew while is passes), but not true UV (Sunburn) damage to the eye surface.

True "Arc Eye" when using an Auto helmet comes from the UV getting reflected back into the helmet from behind (passed your head), e.g.from light coloured workshop walls and low ceilings.

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 05/05/2015 14:54:04

I've had an R-Tec 201 AC/DC Tig set for around 8 months with no problems. R-Tec also have a fantastic reputation for their customer support.

There's also a lot of helpful people and information, for ALL types of welding processes on this site:-  http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ 

Nick.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 25/04/2015 10:17:51

Lots of helpful people (for all types of welding) on this site:- **LINK**

The "Other method" on smaller cutters is almost guaranteed to burst the center hole in the cutter shank when the collar is nipped up!

Did you get a copy of the assembly/tightening instructions with the chuck?

They are important and must be followed to get the best out of the chuck/ cutter assembly.

As a side note , I was taught the incorrect method during my apprenticeship at RR Shrewsbury in the late 70's and it was only about 15 years ago that I aquired a copy of the official instructions.

Here thay are (Just incase):-

Edited By Nick Hughes on 04/02/2015 19:47:50

Here you go:- **LINK**

But you'll need to build the airframe to 1/5 scale as well.

I seem to remember the construction was serialised in Model Engineer (During my youth).

As for the Oleos, I think you need to go down the Lost Wax Casting route

Nick.