Member postings for Alan Waddington 2

What a shame, I'm after exactly that size motor to beef up my rotary converter i doubt the water will have killed the motor itself, probably just rusted the shaft/bearings. worth stripping and cleaning up if you have a use for it. just make sure its thoroughly dried out before powering up.

Someone had a good weigh in.....

World's gone mad....

**LINK**

Dunno if this helps Carl. It's off my Student 1800, so 1.5 MOD

Shaft measures .998" over the splines, and the bore of the gear is .898" Each spline is .250" wide and the gear is .500" thick.

If you were to knock any of these out i would be interested in a 56T gear.

Alan.

Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 22/10/2016 18:44:57

Thats great info Paul, thanks for your time, much appreciated.

AFAIK the splined 1.5 mod gears fit all the Colchesters from that era. Student 1800, Triumph 2000, Master 2500. Don't know about the Mascot however, as it's a bigger and more heavy duty lathe.

I've got a Student 1800, can measure the spline for you, but probably Saturday before I get chance.

Pretty sure Later Colchesters such as the Student 1800 (which are equivalent to the M series Harrisons) are 1.5 mod with a multi spline centre bore.

Hi Andrew

Welcome to the forum, it's a great place to learn with plenty of very knowledgable contributors. Unfortunately I can't offer any constructive advice regarding your Colchester. However I would suggest you price up the headstock bearings before deciding if it's worth repairing. If they are indeed shot, the Gamet bearings are notoriously expensive. Pretty sure they come as a matched pair and are in the 'hundreds of pounds' bracket.

Good luck with it, hopefully someone will be along to offer advice.

Alan

It would have been the late 70's when mum ordered her first microwave, it was the six week holiday, and yours truly took the delivery....always an inquisitive type i eagerly unpacked this shiny piece of space age technology, tossed the unread instruction book to one side and looked around the kitchen for something to cook......

My eyes fell on the egg rack......as you can probably predict, this didn't end well at all

Glad to help Dan, that's what these forums are all about........goodness knows how we all managed before the internet

Here you go Dan, hope it helps

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ca744p3lbrnrpey/img018.pdf?dl=0

Dan

By some mad coincidence I've just picked up a complete and (hopefully) working Lenz LPA1 as a replacement for the defunct Kuroda, it came with a full instruction and parts manual complete with drawings. Have got a pretty full on week coming up, but if I get the chance I'll scan it for you, if not, then will do it at the weekend. Bad news is you should definitely have two small planetary gears present.

Al.

Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 10/10/2016 22:51:54

I think there might be two small gears missing from the two posts stuck up from the underbelly

I'm not familiar with that particular head, but have recently stripped a poorly Kuroda head which looked very similar in design, and it had the two small gears.

have a look in my photo archive, there are some pictures which might explain better.

That's really useful Paul, and looks like i would have expected the gear to, with the concave tooth form. I wonder if you could find time to measure the diameter for me ?

Had a closer look at mine today and did some measuring up, had the gear stood on end and it suddenly struck me that even ignoring the tooth form etc....the bloody gear is cut the wrong hand !

This picture shows how it would sit when in situ.....

The only thing i had to try and measure the angle of the worm and gear teeth was a 2 ft rule with a line of chords on it........not exactly precision, but after measuring both parts a few times i was getting consistent results, worm is 3 degrees and gear is 4 degreesI just need to try and work out what form the worm is, and either have a go myself or get a new gear made.

Did have some more progress today, moved lots of stuff around in my little corner, to try and make the area more workable, and also drilled and tapped the side of the mill to hold a nut and clamp set that i bought ages ago on ebay.

I never thought to question the size, and when it arrived realised the studs and T nuts were about 3 sizes too big for my old mill Fits this one perfectly though, so must have been fate

Also discovered my rotary phase converter has dropped a phase, so currently poking about inside to find the problem..

Funnily enough I looked at that website last night, but bamboozled myself, will have another read. Am pleased you think it's the gear that is incorrect. I've never had cause to make any gears, but after looking at countless youtube videos I think I'd rather tackle the gear than the shaft/worm.

Thanks for your help BTW, as I'm in uncharted territory here.

I'm no expert either Russ, but something's not right, trouble is I'm unsure if it's the gear or the worm (or both) that are wrong.

I was going to start a new thread about my newly acquired Beaver, I'm not contemplating a full restoration, more a clean up and repair job, but is seems sensible to just add to this thread and keep all the Beaver info in one place........hope thats ok?

Rewind a few days, and i saw a Beaver VBRP advertised on Gumtree, it was cheap and local.......Tempting ! The only problem being space, my workshop is crammed in the corner of an oversize domestic garage, with a door that limits headroom when open.

Out with the tape measure and after some 'Man' measuring i convinced myself it was a goer, so me and a mate hooked up the trailer and set off to collect.

This is my unsuspecting universal mill before it was ousted to make room.....

The seller had a forklift and agree to load the mill onto my trailer, we decided to swivel the head down on to the table to lower the COG, there are 4 bolts to loosen, and then the head should rotate on a worm and gear, unfortunately it wouldn't budge more than a few degrees either way. after much faffing about we decided to undo the bolts completely and withdraw the head enough to clear the ring gear, this allowed the head to spin. we had a strap around the forklift tines to support the weight of the head.

After some initial forklift wheelie shenanigans, (heavy old thing) we eventually got her loaded up....do you think we had enough ratchet straps on

The journey home was uneventful, apart from it raining heavily and the mill spewing loads of oil everywhere, pity anyone following us. As it was late we stuck the trailer in my mates workshop overnight.

Today we brought her home, luckily my aforementioned mate has a bloody big tractor, with a home brewed crane on the back, which made short work of unloading, he dropped it right in front of the garage, and in ten minutes we had it shoved in place on steel rollers.

First job was to work out why the head wouldn't rotate, so i wound the table up to support the head and unbolted it completely to gain access to the worm and gear.

Once inside it was obvious what the problem had been.

Strange thing is, i can't see how this gear and worm could have ever worked together, think someone has had a fiddle before......

I decided that would have to be a job for later, so boiled the head back on minus the gears and set to manually rotating it back vertical.......bugger me its heavy! in the end i used a small trolley jack and loads of wooden packers to get me most of the way vertical, with the last 30 degrees done by brute strength.

Result.....it fits....and the garage door opens.....just !

Decided to have a few hours of peace, cleaning off all the swarf, oil and shite....first impressions are good, minimal backlash, and no visible wear to the ways....The table has a few battle scars, but nothing that's going to affect anything i do in the future. Interestingly it has piping for a one shot oil system, although no resevoir or pump are present, this may account for the good condition of the ways.

More updates to follow

Thanks Russ! that's very kind of you, much appreciated. PM sent

Bit of a thread resurrection, but have spent the afternoon dragging a VBRP home, and would love to get my hands on some technical literature. All the Dropbox links earlier in the thread are now dead.

There seems to be loads of variations with these machines, so any info is welcome. I convinced myself it wasn't that big, but now it's home......... it's bloody huge, was surprised when the 1 tonne forklift used to lift it onto my trailer did a nose dive with the back wheels in fresh air......

Pictures to follow.......

Slightly O/T but my first lathe was a Grayson, cracking little lathe, had powered cross feed, which was a nice feature for a 3.5" lathe. Accurate enough for my needs at the time (car building) if a touch small, and a great starter machine to learn on.

Hope you manage to get it within acceptable tolerances.