Member postings for Stuart Bridger

A muzzle brake has slots cut into it which redirect some of the combustion gases backwards. This reduces recoil and supposedly makes the gun steadier so that is easier to acquire the second target. Often you will also see holes drilled in the top of the brake which reduce muzzle flip. This occurs because the barrel centre line is above the line of the stock, so the recoil forces will tend to lift the muzzle up. So again the holes drilled in the top allow gases to escape upwards counteracting the flip.

As to whether they are a good idea, screwing a big lump of metal on the end of your barrel will mess up the critical balance of your gun, whcih I asume is why they look to shorten the barrel.

There is a less invasing technique which is fairly common. Most competition shotguns are multi-choked, with screw in tubes that can be used to vary the pattern. These are available in ported versions, which have thw same slot design, but on a much smaller scale than a brake. I have never seen an aftermarket muzzle break on a shotgun.

Finaly yes, the lump on the end of a tank gun is a muzzle brake.

Edited By Stuart Bridger on 09/10/2015 12:59:09

I can't determine the tooth form to see whether that is climb milling or not. Certainly you can install a slitting saw so it cuts clockwise or anti-clockwise. May not be best practice to run it the "other" way as Jason says. Not sure I am brave enough to climb cut with a slitting saw though.

I'm glad someone was brave enough to ask that question

I have a milling vice, boring head and two keyless drill chucks from Vertex. The quality is definitely a significant step up from the "entry level" tooling. It is more expensive, but worth it in my opinion.

Stops are retained on mine

I have a VMC with the scales pre-installed by Warco. The Y axis is fitted with a 150mm unit and the stops are set to about 150mm apart.

+1 on KWIL's post.

Some VFD's have a second set of parameters you can store, so you can have setups for two motors, just have to remember to switch the VFD parameters, when you change over.

Thanks for the suggestions

Friedn of mine is looking for a carbon fibre tube 1.6m long by 400mm dia. Astronomy application, any ideas of suppliers?

Thanks

Stuart

My trusted 30 year old digital fluke Fluke 77, I think has had one new battery (PP3) in all that time.. Doesn't get used that often though.

Frank, I have my 10V at the same stage minus valve gear, i can measure later, what units would you prefer?

And in the UK, make sure the power stays within legal limits or you will fall foul of firearms law.

My first suggestion would be to contact the vendor for wiring instructions. You presumption is most likely correct though, but if any doubt I would recommend contacting a qualified electrician to check it over. Given that there are six wires, I suspect that it is a 3 phase induction motor, with a motor run capacitor for the 3rd phase, but no guarantees.

.

I usually buy my stock from the suppliers who advertise here on in ME/MEW. I am lucky though, I have a small engineering shop in the village who let me have offcuts of ferrous stock for the price of a pint.

My experience with using bolts as stock is not so good. I have a bag of 8.8 grade M12 bolts under my bench, bought them from Screwfix for one job and loads left. Thought that they would be ideal as stock. But they machine awfully, very difficult to get a good finish.

Well perhaps the free delivery policy soaks up some of the ability to do a deal.
I agree with the professionalism and helpfulness of their delivery guy. Certainly didn't hang about moving my VMC into place. I paid the extra to get it across my gravel drive, the bane of anything on a pallet truck. Worth every penny.

Completely agree with John S. Having worked in customer facing roles for many years. Few remember when stuff goes right all the time. You can screw up royally but if you bend over backwards to sort it out, that will leave a positive impression.

No complaints either, bought a VMC mill from them a few years back. Went to their showroom and discussed my requirements, followed by a phone call and order. No issues at all. While still under warranty the electric box holding the on-off switch disintegrated (made of something that loosely resembled plastic with the strength of a mild cheese) Phone call to their service dept resulted in a new box being dispatched promptly.

Finally replaced the oil seals on the clutch shaft of my Chipmaster after getting fed up of most of the headstock oil. dripping on the garage floor. Learned quit a lot about how not fit an oil-seal, but got there in the end. A bit worrying was a nicely polished worn groove, where the inboard seal runs. Should have got a photo, but forgot. Hopefully it has done the job. Headstock now refilled and will be watching the level.

Hamish,

I would thoroughly recommend the website at http://www.homews.co.uk/page42.html
this gives a nice step by step guide to building the 10V (not V10, one cylinder is quite enough for a beginner...)
Like you the 10V is my first model and I also have the book you refer to. It assumes that all work is done on a Myford lathe. The website does give some different techniques in some areas.

Edit, Jason already beat me to it with the link, sorry for the duplication

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Bridger on 02/06/2015 10:54:23