Member postings for Pero

Tom

It is possible you may find what you are looking for on the J. E. Howell Model Engine Plans website (model-engine-plans.com). Propane valve plans and some key components are listed under Plans and Parts - Attachments and Tools.

Plans are available for download (there is a cost for this) and key parts can be purchased online.

No connection other than I have purchased from them on several occasions and have been very happy with the online plans service and purchase of parts.

Cheers

Pero

Certainly standard practice on my Myford which it retains its original fibre washers from new. (It's a late model ML7). I admit to not doing any thread cutting which probably explains why they have not worn!

I agree with Hopper's reasoning behind the mode of adjustment adopted by Myford (and others? ).

Pero

Hi John

I wasn't really suggesting anyone rush out and buy one of these, unless you have a specific need. The comment was really around the rapid increase in the weight of accessories as lathes (and mills) increase in size. It's something that is easy to overlook if going down the oft suggested route of 'get the biggest lathe you can afford/will fit in your shed'.

I can still lift reasonably heavy objects, although I have noticed that things are getting heavier over time. In my case the problem is old injuries to both wrists that make some twisting movements difficult and these tend to get worse not better with time. This means that I can lift a big chuck/vise/rotary table up to lathe bed/mill table height - I just can't do to much with it when I get there!

Screwing the 100 mm screw-on chuck onto the Myford nose is a LOT different to aligning a 250 mm D1-6 chuck onto the big lathe, something I for one did not fully appreciate when I bought the big lathe. There are of course ways of working around it but it is something to consider when buying anything larger than a hobby size lathe.

Pero

John - I have one of those, although mine is currently sitting rather depressed against the wall lacking its three phase power supply.

Billy - The critical issue with the lathe John has linked to and other big lathes is not the weight of the machine itself, although you do need a solid concrete floor to stand it on, but the weight of everything that goes with it. The last chuck I bought, a grip-tru variant, came in at 40 kg. I haven't weighed it but I suspect the face plate weighs just about as much and things like steadies not much less.

If lifting weights is an issue, and it is rapidly becoming so for me, then going up too much in size with a lathe might not be such a good idea unless you have a good lifting and positioning system - if anyone has any good suggestions along that line I would be most interested.

In lathe sizes between there and the Myford it would be well worthwhile handling the chucks to see what weight you can comfortably lift and if possible go through the process of changing chucks, which is rather more of an issue than simply lifting one, to see whether it is physically possible now and potentially in a few years time.

That said there is a variety of designs of lifting equipment both on the market and in the magazines for the model engineer although I haven't yet found one that suits my requirements (which of course are for one that takes up no room and does everything). But you do need to be prepared.

Pero

And Western Australia is not only another country, we have the referendum to prove it!

Much food for thought and more than a little introspection!

On the hand held power tool front I tend to follow the line of a cheapie for the dirty and nasty jobs and a quality one for best, although I'm not sure when best is as the cheapies tend to carry the workload. The one exception would be battery powered tools which in my case are all DeWalt. The 18/54 V Li Ion batteries stay charged for months when not used and have plenty of power when they are. Hand tools: chisels, planes etc. I buy the best I can afford and try not to abuse them.

In the engineering department, again I tend to buy the best machines that I can afford (probably more than I can afford to tell the truth) and do the job that I require, but tend to have good, better and best drills and cutters. When considering what I should pay for sacrificial/expendible items I think on a set of El Cheapo Chinese needle files that I purchased decades ago that have spent their life filing stainless steel and continue to do so (not every day of course). Who says the Chinese can't make steel? Cheap does not always equal bad. It does not necessarily equal good either - caveat emtor.

Looking back, my greatest mistakes would be the purchase of expensive tools to do a one off job that then sit on the shelf for years waiting to be called on again when an inexpensive one would have done the job adequately and could have been discarded instead of taking up that valuable shelf space for all those years.

So many tools, so little space. Time for another cull me thinks.

Pero

en

,

Hello David

Generally speaking there is no difference between a steel cabinet stand and a steel bench with respect to differential expansion resulting from changes in temperature.

I have a heavy duty cabinet under one of my mills which moves in all sorts of directions when exposed to changes in temperature or to a few minutes in the sun (an inherent problem with sheet metal) and have no doubt that the Myford version would do likewise. I very much doubt that any of these steel cabinets, Myford or otherwise, were calibrated to expand and contract at the same rate as the lathe or mill they support and hence remain perfectly stable, one reason for not over-tightening a lathe to the stand.

A steel framed bench with a plywood, MDF or granite is likely to offer the best stability, and the best option for under-bench storage, although I have no concerns with my all-timber bench.

Pero

Most of the issues with timber can be overcome by the use of properly seasoned timber for construction with the finished cabinet thoroughly painted inside and out. A good idea anyway if any ply, MDF or chipboard is used in the construction.

By following this process my Myford has been sitting happily, and sufficiently accurately for my purposes, on such a bench for over thirty years.

A steel bench will also expand and contract with temperature and not necessarily at the same rate as the lathe mounted upon it. The effect can be even worse if part of the bench is exposed to the sun through a window. The same applies to the lathe irrespective of the bench (timber or steel) it is mounted on. In this case curtains may be the best answer and the sewing machine your best friend.

Pero

Please Nick don't open that can of worms 😂

Good point. How many engineers does it take to open a can of worms? (with apologies)

Pero

You may also wish to measure the diameter of the non-threaded portion of the bolt. In some cases this may exceed the nominal diameter of the thread in which case the best options are to reduce the diameter before threading with a die or cut the thread using the lathe (or both). This is more generally a problem with larger size bolts (6 mm and up).

It goes without saying the use of a good cutting compound (I use Trefolex but everyone has their own favorite) is essential on stainless steel.

Hello Jason

First of all thank you for going to the effort of getting the engine plans and description up on the website. A little engine but not a little effort!

Ian asked the first of my questions on the use of Stanley knife blades for the shutter - that of possible warping when silver soldering.

My other question is whether corrosion following silver soldering or in use is a problem. I have managed over the years to cause extreme rust on the blades without them ever being exposed to heat. Is there some method of preventing this when the blade is used as a shutter?

I have another flame licker design that I am working on and am interested in the use of various key materials in their construction, the shutter being one of these.

Thanks

Pero

Perhaps having two bob (20 cents) each way, the supplier of one of my lathes recommended ISO 48 for all parts of all of their lathes ranging from small bench top 'hobby' lathes to large industrial lathes.

Seems to work OK although I still use ISO 32 on my ML7 (perhaps out of sentimentality or perhaps just because I still have lot of it). If I am not using the machines for a while they usually get a coating of ACF-50 which seems to work well.

Incidentally, as I seem to be able to make stainless steel rust by simply being in the same room with it, whenever I buy something new - tools, castings, steel stock etc. I carefully take it out of the wrapping without touching it with the fatal fingers and give it a spray with ACF-50 or INOX. After that I have found things much more resistant to rust. Worth trying if you are a fellow corrosive.

Pero

One additional criterion that could/should be considered by the selection committee, and picking up from the White Elephant thread, is that the items should also be judged on is usefulness, i.e. is it something that will be used/implemented on a regular basis or, in the case of a machine modification, installed by a number of model engineers.

From my reading of John's posts (I never had the privilege of meeting the man) I believe that something that would be put away in the cupboard never to be seen again would not appeal.

Just a thought.

Pero

We seem to be forgetting that there is one common denominator here - human beings.

If we ban them (us?) we can eliminate murder altogether, assuming by 'ban' that we don't mean 'murder'.

Then knives, guns, hammers, cars etc become totally benign.

However if you are looking for a real biggy have a look at the current news reports on Yemen - mass murder all done deliberately by disease and malnutrition.

Have a nice day.

Pero

Mea culpa, mea culpa. I admit to purchasing one for my Cowells ME90. Very nicely made as one would expect if a little pricey. However, it does go very well with all the other accessories.

I must however make one for the Myford which is more likely to be used in anger (or more likely thrown across the floor in disgust, couples with the use of Old English, when I make a boo boo while constructing it).

Possibly coming in at number 96 on the list of things to do (in the workshop not around the house) unless a sudden need arises .....

Pero

Clive

I have used citrus oil to remove these gummy types of glue in the past. It works by breaking down the glue and its adhesion.

You need to cover the glue with a thin coating of the oil and leave it to work for a while (don't rush it) and then it should wipe off - paper towel is a good option here. A couple of goes may be required for stubborn patches. It should not damage the vinyl but will leave it slippery until thoroughly washed off.

It is available under various names from the cleaning section of hardware stores or supermarkets.

Pero

Hopper

Sounds like I had better practice my beer drinking just in case ....

What worries me more is that they may ban acetic acid (aka vinegar) on my fish and chips.

The problem with all these regulations and bans is that they only impact on the law abiding. The problem of illegal use of guns, acids, etc, etc. is that they are used by people who never intended to obey the rules in the first place and who seem to find no difficulty in obtaining their requirements.

Perhaps following the recent incidents a ban on mopeds might also be considered.

Personally I prefer the thought of extreme punishment of those using guns etc. for offensive purposes rather than those using them appropriately.

While the death penalty may not be the ultimate deterrent it certainly does curtail the number of repeat offences!

Should I be saying this on a Sunday?

Pero

Hydrofluoric acid is also used for post welding treatment of stainless steel to prevent rusting. It is supplied in a suitably dilute format by major welding equipment suppliers. I have purchased and used it at home for this purpose.

However I am also trained and experienced in the use of very nasty chemicals and only use it with the greatest of care irrespective of the concentration.

My dear old mum also used to use it in very small quantities for glass etching.

Anyone thinking of using it at any concentration should read up on the proper handing of HF and have an adequate supply of water and the neutralising agent, calcium gluconate, on hand before starting.

As noted by ChrisB its behaviour is somewhat different to other acids, and it behaves differently at different concentrations, and a quick wash off will not necessarily address the worst of its affects.

Pero

Hi Brian

My comments were intended to be general rather in relation to the specific issues you encountered with your lathe which I followed with interest in previous threads, developing enormous with your dogged determination and ability to learn in the process.

It does go to show though that occasional problems can be encountered whichever purchasing route you go down.

Living in Perth I am closer than you to the suppliers of most of my machinery, but a long distance from many of the suppliers of accessories and all of the suppliers of castings (3000 km plus). Like you I have to think a lot before contemplating sending a heavy item half way across the globe an would generally look to seeing if it is salvageable before doing so.

Pero

Hi Brian

A question worth asking and some useful information in response. Apart from the mainly superficial problems that have been noted the only way to determine the underlying quality of the lathe would be for someone with a good understanding of lathes to give one a thorough test drive. Possibly unlikely.

The main problem that I see will be for someone with no knowledge of lathes buying one and then having endless problems with the machine as they attempt to use it. Price being the ultimate tempter if you cannot afford to buy from the major sellers.

I have bought many tools both very cheap and very expensive over the years. While all of the very expensive ones are still up and running, so too are some of the cheapest although there have been notable failures. Like you, and I expect most people on the forum, I buy what I can afford at the time, sometime putting off buying until I can afford a better model.

The problem with machine tools is that even the lowest cost tools are expensive and if you have no reliable source of advice you can end up with a very expensive lemon. I wonder how many potential purchasers thinking of buying the Vevor or similar will read this or similar threads before committing to buy?

Pero