Member postings for John P

I use EN8 if i can get in the size needed , cuts well and lasts
better than free cutting steel.

Should have added this video in previous posting on
usage of cylinder squares.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOaAMvGjUTk

John

Buy or make something like this.

https://www.judgetool.com/products/suburban-tool-magnetic-cylindrical-square/

John

Seeing your photo with your new surface plate mounted on
on bits of plywood , would be worth looking on here

https://www.starrett.com/precision-granite/precision-granite-faq

for the correct way to install and mount a surface plate.

John

You could try on here look in section for "resins"
down the page 2 products for cleaning and thinning resin.

https://www.bucks-composites.com/categories/resins

John

Posted by Michael Gilligan 13/09/2022 20:08:05

Nice to see the material specification in that post of your, John

“crucible steel spindle forging” … those were the days !!

MichaelG.
--------------------------------------------------
Hi Michael,

Was from a re-print of an original book that was published
in 1920's useful method for the OP as his lathe is short on
centre distance.

Later on a similar illustration for finishing still using
the same setup sprung type centre and fixed steady which
is useful for finishing if you have such a thing.

Hi Steve

Looking at your latest video it is clear that the bearing seats
on the shaft are not round.
Just watch this video here it may be of some use

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE6m1aBfN5A

Some of the suggestions on this thread have not taken into account
this in your opening posting,
-----------
"The spindle doesn’t have a very good finish (home made obviously). But I’m
not in a position to remake it as it’s too long for my lathe."
-------------------
With that in mind it would seem pointless to even try to re-machine
this spindle.
-----------
This part of Tony Pratt's posting struck a chord with me

"when I made my DW mill back in the 1970's I rejected the first part machined
spindle as the Morse taper was not in line with the part and rear centre axis so
if I had carried on and ignored this issue when I applied the tail stock centre
to support the part it would have flexed said part and created in effect a bent
spindle when machined."
--------------------------
I think that you have to go back to the way the Dore westbury kit of parts
were supplied, Most of the major parts of the machine are already made and
finished to complete the machine some additional work mostly drilling
and tapping holes for assembly .
Some parts like the Quill and spindle are only part made ,my own spindle
supplied as a piece of bar stock with through hole for the draw bar
and pre-machined 2 morse taper and centered 2 morse taper plug ,it was
obvious from the start that the through hole about 15 inch in length had been
drilled from each end as the junction could be easily seen by looking through.
Being a complete beginner at this then, i did not fully realize the significance that
this would have and as you may guess the taper runs out in an axial direction.
Nearly 40 years on correcting this would be a simple job.

Your shaft seems to have many errors so much so it would be easier to
remake the shaft ,as you have a lathe that is too small you could consider
just making the lower part and the spline upper part as two parts and
using loctite to join them together. I think the biggest problem you may face
is first drilling a through hole through a piece of barstock of about 7 1/2 inches
on a lathe that is only 12 1/2" between centres, if you could manage to do that
and set up each end of the through hole and turn the centre seating, this
cutting from an old book shows how the rest could be done using a sprung
dog centre and fixed steady.

John

Edited By John P on 13/09/2022 17:06:49

Seeing the Harrison that is described in "lathes UK" the vertical heads
don't seem have a specification that would be of much use these days.

It would be a simple job to make a bolt on head similar to
this seen here that i made for my Dore Westbury cnc conversion.
Entirely fabricated from steel and cast iron and 2 simple castings,the 4 main
parts are the mounting plate in steel bolted on to the the main body of
cast iron , the quill assembly is eventually loctited into the main body
The 3 bearing spindle has the taper for the er collet bored in directly
and uses a Myford 7 nose thread so all Myford accessories fit.
The aluminium castings made from 1 pattern hold the motor on top
and through 8 toothed belt pulleys and the inverter the head has a speed
range from 100 rpm to 10,000 rpm . I don't have any drawings, something like this
you can draw up on the back of an envelope ,i did ,its just a matter of working
out what you need.

There may be a more recent published design for a bolt on vertical milling head in
MEW but i cant find it ,there was one published in MEW 34 for a Tom senior
that used parts of a Dore Westbury milling machine .

John

That's about as much as you can do to reduce the top heaviness of the machine,
maybe remove the hand wheels if you are going through normal door ways and rotate the ram about 30 deg or so to reduce the rear overhang.
Be careful when swinging the head down as it is very top heavy and beyond about 20 deg it will try to swing down very fast and heavy.

Check that you will be able to use an inverter with the motor that is fitted. Warco originally supplied these machines with a 2 speed motor to be able to use the low range speeds and had to have the motor rewound before delivery to use the inverter. I don't know if that was full rewind or just rewired internally on the terminal block.

Chester's still sell these machines as the 830VS-R price £6,100 .

Have the complete handbook that was supplied with the machine will be able
to copy it if you need it.

John

Posted by John Templeman 11/09/2022 20:22:10

Once again Thankyou, I see you have converted your machine to cnc so based on that
you must be fairly happy with it, is there any particular issues with these
machines or are they fairly bomb proof.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These machines suffer the usual problems as many of the machines from China,
i believe the machine that i have was made in Taiwan,the base parts of the machine
are very well made but suffer from poor fitting on assembly,perhaps an example
is when i converted the machine to cnc i made 2 new leadscrews just new acme
screws it is not really necessary to have ballscrews on a cnc machine as some will
have you believe ,the old screws were poorly fitted to the extent the old leadscrew
was bowed along its length ,all of this was corrected during the re-fit .
The squareness of the X and Y axis is about 0.005" out and always has been ,
i have never bothered to try to correct this ,i was still able to make all of the
parts of the grinding machine seen also in the albums .The table traverse on the grinding
machine is straight to within about 0.0003" in 22 inches and will produce
parts square now to the thickness of the needle of a 1/10 thou clock
in 4 inches, so yes i am happy with the machine and would not part with it.

John

Here is the Warco A2F

John

Had this machine  since 1998  been modified quite a bit has a raising block fitted to the head  now has 24  inches spindle to table height   and a 2 part  vertical knee  screw  so can have   zero inch from   spindle to table ,machine is  part cnc  ,table   long travel  to about     550 mm . Fitted with inverter   as supplied  from new  spindle speed up to 4500 rpm.

There are some more photo's of this machine in the album.  

Edited By John P on 11/09/2022 20:20:15

Warco A2F milling machine from the handbook.

John

Just noticed  that there are 2 versions of this machine in the hand book  this one is not the A2F,   the A2F 

wll be in the next posting.

Edited By John P on 11/09/2022 20:03:15

Hi ,
First of all don't do up the drawbar so tightly,when i use
MT tooling in the lathe spindle to remove i remove the drawbar
and use about a 2 foot length of 1/2" steel rod, hold on to the
piece of tooling and slide through the rod and hit on the back of
the taper tooling ,works every time.

John

Posted by Chris Crew 31/08/2022 01:42:05

It was this component that brought my 50% completed Quorn project to a halt and it has languished
under the bench for a few years now. As if a recessed taper on the underside of a one-piece
component was not difficult enough to machine and effect a reasonable fit, or at least it was in
my case, I made the spindle as a separate component and used Loctite to fix it in the main
body, the upper mounting lug is also awaiting a solution on my example. Without being able
to refer to the book, which is out in the workshop, I believe Prof C. modified this part because
many people were having difficulty in holding the work-piece to machine it. In any event I
didn't have this casting in the un-machined kit of castings I bought via a classified ad. and
was fabricating the part. As I recall, I found machining the circular tee-slot another
nightmare. Obviously, I had to machine a groove and then make two cranked tools, RH
& LH, small enough to enter but big enough to make the annular slots to form the tee
(I may have just made one tool, inverted it and ran the lathe in reverse to machine the
opposite groove, I can't recall now). That's how I did it although other higher skilled
machinists may have done it differently. I toyed with the idea of welding a lump of
steel on to the top to hold the work-head as against bolting it on but moved on to
other projects in the meantime and have not yet gone back to the Quorn. Perhaps
you have just inspired me to do so.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can't really see the difficulty in machining this part ,it is well documented
on pages 33 and 34 of the Quorn book with a very thorough description in the text and 2
setup photographs, i expect that i followed those instructions when i
built mine ,i can't remember it was nearly 40 years ago.

Building a Quorn is useful beginners project.

John

Posted by Nicholas Hill 30/08/2022 19:19:09
Hello,

I recently purchased a semi-complete Quorn tool grinder. I was surprised at how cheap it was, until I got it home and inspected it. All the other parts are there and in good condition, apart from the workhead. Which as can be seen by the photo is not according to the drawing!

Can anyone suggest why it would be made with out the support for the Workhead?

Any suggestions on how to correct the part? I am tempted to make a new part out of a machined round bar? As in mill out the right angle support, to almost replicate the original casting, and then follow the instruction from there.

But I am naive, so any suggestions most welcome. I have a Myford lathe with a Rodney, and a recently refurbished horizontal mill, so machine work isn't an issue.

Many thanks,

Nicholas Hill

Hi,
I does seem odd that this part was made without the means to fix the work head bar,
on the original Quorn parts this part was a steel casting , has your part been made from
a from steel bar , there have been instances where this part has been fabricated in this
way and the part that is missing is bolted on for finish machining.
It may be worth looking on

httpsgroups.iogQuorn-Owners

as there may well be some useful ideas on there.

John

Have a look on here for double sided toothed belts

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/?catid=2564&display=&orderby=&att1=5.08mm+%3D+1%2F5inch&att2=&att3=&att4=&att5=

Google tens machine there are a lot of different circuit diagrams
around for these things.

Look at this and it will give an indication of how these things work.

https://www.learningelectronics.net/circuits/transcutaneous-electrical-nerve_03.html

John

With the setup here to divide 50 divisions the sector arms are set to give
an advance of 16 holes not including the hole the index pin is in.

With this set up as shown the index pin arm is rotated clockwise and
drops into the hole as it passes over the lower sector arm ,the sector
arms rotate anti-clockwise to set the position for the next division.

John

In the absence of 1 to 1 tuition there are plenty of videos on this subject
Google surface grinding and see what comes up ,from there on
is it is just a matter giving it a try and learn as you go ,its not really that hard to do.

Here are some to watch that may be of use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npybvhWYklc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMHksf17oqE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwPCHbAOqw8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tN_uGHNknM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXXfez5I_0A

John

Lots of useful information here on the correct blade selection.

https://www.lenoxtools.com/Guides/LENOX_20Guide_20to_20Band_20Sawing.pdf

14 tpi is most probably too fine for a 2 inch copper bar, a 4 or 6 tpi
or variable pitch blade is best .Coat the blade with rocol neat cutting oil
or Trefolex to prevent pick up on the teeth. Slowest cut speed the machine has.

John