Member postings for clogs

Hi all, looking for a supplier of Helical gears....prefer from stock....

I need a matched pair between 75-100mm about 20-25mm tooth thickness and

hardened ...

these are to run in mesh one above the other to reverse the direction of the driven gear.....to transmit 2-5hp at varying speeds.....constant load.....

this is to drive a camshaft (4 cylinder petrol) in the past they were driven by ally or even fiber gears meshed with a steel one...

any ideas...many thanks Clogs

HI,

is there sutch a thing as a collet holder for the headstock on a square head

Student….thought I saw somewhere that the headstock has a MT5 fitting ?

I want to be able to use the adapter without a chuck...

have tried flebay etc with no luck so far….

many thanks Clogs...

Hi all, any help out would be welcome....

I would like 2@ 4 or 5" EMPTY brass shell casings....

I want to make a dash for a vintage motorcycle and I think this would be a good place to start..

many thanks Clogs

Mr Speed Builder %...

I to have some very old books, mine will be passed on to a specialist library......

Even an model eng club with the view for them keep.....forever...

PLEASE DON'T BIN THEM

when the lecky finally runs out printed paper is all that's left.....vivla le revolution....hahaha.....

clogs

Hi all, am in the same boat as Nick_G......

just when I thought I got it sorted in my head, have now been told about the "Graphic display"

I'm only gonna buy the 3axis DRO once for my mill (the Graphic display (pictures) model is about £150 plus the vat dearer)...

I just about got it sorted to use a video player then they went 2 digital...hahaha......

I have a real problem with sort of stuff.

so my question is...is the Grap/disp worth the extra (don't mind if it is) or is the best route the simple one, just the number display...

PCD holes will not b an everyday operation but when u start u'll always need it...

thanks for any gudience

Clogs

HI all, and the best of New years….

I'm in the same boat as Mr Speedy……but it'll have to wait can't justify £2,000 for a good AC DC unit...

a foot pedal control is an absolute must…..?

are there any recomended machines…at a lower cost….really don't want Asian…..I know you get what you payfor - sometimes…...

as 4 gases I use hobby gas Supplies, no contract …not cheap but more acceptable than the likes of BOC...

Clogs

HI Guy's
my two-pence worth......
I ran my own medium sized repair shop in a certain large northern town.....knowing the local engineering college tutors v/well
I offered to train a couple of young'ns on the hands on side o'things to add to their knowlege base.....
offered to give them some cash as well 4 their time and if they were good they could work when ever they wanted to.....after 6 months of trying nobody came forward.....my tutor friend said he was not surprised but said nothing as he didn't want to offend me......
as I see it, as far as training goes and pretty much life in general "put back in what u get out" ..I've tried....

after a sad occasion in my life I started to travel the world again and worked for an "engineering agency" finishing my last assignment with a Danish wind turbine company....(hands on destructive test manager) .based in the UK.....
the top brass (brass refers to ball's "made of" had a string of letters after their names......but their qualification for the job was in their trouser's, that's because they married into the family.......just sum's up the UK really....

was it the Germans that said " they fight like Lions but led by DONKEY'S".....the e-awes are still at it.....

the firm had the saying "were all in the team" the only time team was used was when they blamed the blokes in overall's for their design failures and when the head honcho's from DK visited our new workshop and the morons
(upper management) forgot to order milk for the coffee (they raided our fridge)......
I say to anyone who wants to get their hands dirty...learn ur trade have a couple of extra years on the job
then LEAVE and travel the world...u might not earn good money but u'll have a lot of fun.....
pretty much all the good engineer's I know have either started their own place, left the UK or took early retirement.....or all three ....hahaha........

HIP HIP "UK" not hooray.......thanks but no thanks.....

on my next move I will find a young'n that wants to learn and he / she can have all my tools and equipment as a gift when I pack it in....
Have a good Christmas and an oily New Year....
clogs........

Hi Lee,

mag drills are def the way 2 go.....they don't cost the earth 2 rent......plus a transformer..(all the modern one are 110v)

I bought mine as I got fed up with the worn out rentals or "it's out mate"..... it will cut the hole but u def need a sharp cutter.....if u go the rental route, shop about, some require u 2 buy ur own cutter £60-80 plus on flebay......other's just charge u for a re-grind on their's...remember loads of cutting fluid.....

Frank

HI Gordon,

well I had a Myford Super 7, then bought a square head Student was very happy with both...wish I'd kept the 7....

but it had to go.....

when I get my next worshop I'll have something similar again but this time I'll hide it under a cloth.....hahaha....

my good lady is brill. but as u only get one birthday per year and I have to wait 5 years or so, because I've had all my prezy's.........lets c what santa brings......

I dont' do to much small stuff but a 7 would be good to have around......

just need another Wed, and Thur's. in the week, oh and some more money.........hahaha......

regards Frank

HI all,

sorry but it's just my sense of humor.....

squeezing "things" into tight wet leather......ur never to old......

hahaha......Frank

HI Clive,

how about an old roller bearing....I never throw anything out....need a bigger barn....hahaha...

old bearings have got me out of the poo many times...used an old roller (bearing) to make a large "C" spanner....

good luck frank

HI Rob, go into any car parts place (prob not Halfords) u can get the nipple with a long extension…..

1/4 - 1/2" etc etc……often used on car prop shafts…if ur in the country-side tractors use them all the time a tractor repair place will def have them….look at the thread before u go it prob is AF but could be a Whit…….there's loads to choose from….

dont worry about the grease down the hole..couple of drops of oil will make everything right…..

price around 20p

Frank

Geoff's door SAGA.....

not one for steps (trip hazards) or complicated things.....

had a similar problem but wind and rain from the north.....

I used some left over Damp Proof Membrane, black, tough and fairly flexible . 9" wide......used for brick work...

pop-rivit it to the bottom of the door using some metal strip as a backing, leaving about 2-3" to touch the floor. just trim off the overlap inside to tidy up.....I guess it's a metal or glassfiber door...

"if it's an up and over", as the door closes the flap will hit the ground first and just lay flat......the harder the wind blows the firmer it stay's down....remember the gap on the door how ever large (within reason) u need this flap to lay on the floor... if u have a large gap double it up for some added stiffness.....it'll also work on a swinging door but u must remember it will need an overlap on the stationary door....to cover the gap....

cheap n cheerful but best of all it works......I even use the same idea as a draught proofer on the works door....

hope this helps...........Frank

Hi Mr bent spanner,

try www.essex fasteners .......they carry a lot of weird stuff..... but it's the quality thats ur problem but u could use an "unbreako" socket head screw they are High tensile 12.9 quality, I think, they are not zinc coated but proper old fashioned bolt....u may will get the shouldered bolt but u may need to get the thread made a little longer....

(ie shoulder to long) just phone them they are very knowledgeable... and they will explain the dimensions of what they have or get for u over the phone.....

also they post.....I must say I am only a customer and have nothing else to do with them.....

there is a manufacture of specials (bolts) in Bolton - lancs, they made some bolts for an antique steam engine I had.......

where I worked there was a place (Birmingham) that used to make bolts that were 1 1/2" dia x 36" long and x rayed ...not cheap but anything is possible....

you should say where u are......poss. someone on the forum may help u....

I live in France now and it was a long time ago I had job's like these done, if ur not successful in your search

let me know and I'll go thru my old address books for u.....

get lucky Frank

HI Guy's, ref bandsaw blade cutting...

what pitch and Ft/per/Min do you suggest to cu 3mm 316 stainless plate, have a lot of friction plates to make for two sets of girder forks....(yes, motorcycles again)....

many thanks Frank in France

Hi guy's.

thought I'd got it sorted....BUT....

just ready to order a 3 axis DRO kit for my J head Bridgeport, then they tell me the scales are glass......thought it was Ally.....

major problem ?

help please...

thanks Frank

Hi Terry and welcome,

like Nobby say's, what do u want to do on it......

I had a sweet super 7 Myford with loads of gear.....but out grew it......would have another if / when I get some more room.....but don't tell er indoors......hahaha....

only room for one lathe......ended up with a nice Colchester student square head.....and I might add for a lot less money......if u go the bigger route u'll have to allow for a voltage converter in ur costings as most of the bigger ones will be 3 phase......and at about 8-10 cwt (or more) u'll need a good floor and ease of moving the thing about....

if u go the Myford route, try and get one with a cabinet ...u'll never have enough room for storage....

take ur time and get one from the person who used it...... get as much tooling as can get with it, lathes are cheap but ohhhhh the tooling does cost dear....if u get lucky u'll find somebody giving up......perhaps they'll even show u how to use it.....

look out for a college course.....night school......well worth it.....

find someone near you and look at what there doing.....take ur time u only want to do this once.....the logistics of moving this stuff about is more stressful than a divorce...hahaha.....well the big'uns......

remember u can always do small stuff on a big'un but not visa versa....

keep away from the not so cheap Chinese stuff.....it'll never last.....

good luck Frank

Hi Neil,

re thrust bearing...how much work is it going to do...ie like a cross slide wheel (nothing) or as a screw jack screw (very heavy).....?

for heavy work go with the rollers and the lighter side of things of things either use a bronze washer or even some plastic...

but always have something for a thrust washer...... when I've been stuck a well lubed steel washer got me out of trouble, thats until the next strip down....as for the faces.....as long as one say the wheel is super smooth u'll be just fine.......for the diff. to machine or rough side of the thrust face...as long as there are no big lumps and it flat'ish say with a smooth file it'll be ok......the smooth side will spin and the rough will tend to hold the thrust washer.....obviously lube on assembly (but if you go with the rough and smooth, only lube the smooth side) but other than that don't worry to much.....

cheers Frank

To Cotswoldsphil,

please do supply the link 4 the tangent. tool...

many thanks Frank