Member postings for michael darby

Have you tried Stainless Metric Stock Lancashire. you can use grade 304 or 321 or 410 all are weldable dependent on your requirements

You need AC for aluminium

Most commercial vehicles have automatic drain valves now operate on a timer after the ignition is off and handbrake applied.

I agree, people are quick to complain, but reluctant to praise excellent service

Where are you, I taught welding for 15 years if I can be of any help. I am in north Manchester/

Hi,I dont think they make them

Hi the 4 pin plug is for current control hence the local/remote switch

one of Englands finest that man,he is down to earth and enthusiastic. a pleasure to watch

See if your local engineering shop has a nibbler. a sheet metal or duct shop should have one. it only take a few minutes and if its the punch type ,there will leave no distortion. if you are near north manchester I will do it for you .

We used to hydraulic form stainless steel bellows of many sizes. mainly for the nuclear industry.Quite straightforward .stacked rings with spacers,and capped top and bottom in a press to maintain pressure as diameter increases and hight reduces.

Hi.TIG welding is just like embroidery, it takes patience and a rhythmical approach to feeding the filler wire into the leading edge of the weld pool. With aluminium, you need to extra clean,use a stainless steel brush to break the oxide layer. Start on 3mm material ,just putting beads on the plate.You will learn that you will need to increase the speed as the material heats up, use a big piece to start with,small pieces overheat too quickly.

Just a note on the metal in your eye, make sure its out, if you ever need an MRI tell them about it. if its still in it will cause extensive damage. they will need to x ray your eye first to ensure its gone. but they wont know if you dont tell them.

Hi, yes you can use your mig wire.however its quite thin and it will be difficult to control the weld pool temperature,by using the wire.

Hi you had the rollers too tight causing the edge.to frill too tight causes the roll to bend.We used to roll polished stainless with cardboard both sides to prevent marking the sheet.

No nickel is a very tough material to cut with any mechanical means. it will eat aw blades for fun.

The comment"this sort of thing" is typical of people who consider "originality" to be the be all and end all .When these vehicles were popular, modifications and upgrades were done all the time. similar things happened to motorcycles. and is still happening today. usually these mods are done for good reasons, better handling,better braking,more power or just asthetics for the owner.if I see an early car or motorcycle, I dont care what its had done to it, its just nice to see it on the road. I have myself a Norton 1959, with clip ons, rearsets and a 5 gallon ally tank and its beautiful. its value? dont care its mine and I bought it new. I would sooner sell the house than my bike.

I dont know if it helps, but "stainless steel" is just a generic term like "car" the range and diversity are almost limitless. from cutlery to aerospace ,mot only the nickel and chrome content can vary ,but other elements are added which completely change the characteristics of the material. so unless it is purely decorative,it useage needs to be specified and the correct grade obtained

In solid steel ,that would be a fair weight . It could easily be done in plastic, using a hot air gun for the welds.then spray it with a can

I would suggest that on something so small, it would have been cast in. can you not bore it out and make a press in end,then pin it in a couple of places to secure it?

Could do with a photo to establish requirements.