Member postings for Lynne

Hi, wheel posts are threaded 3BA, so the spares catalogue tells me

The tapping hole for 3ba is 29 or 3.4mm, and these will not go through the hole in the plate I am looking at. I have tried to determine the thread from the range of taps I have , but no success. Any suggestions as to what may have been used.

Thanks, Lynne

draftsight 2016 installed. drawing parameters set up as per notes. scheme drawn. print model produces a drawing of approx. half scale. drawing sheet and the option to define a scale of 1:1 delivers a drawing of approx 2:1

The scheme can be drawn on A4. So where am I going wrong. DS notes suggest that print is a simple process.

regards Lynne

Clive, Thanks for the information. I have asked the ebay supplier to clarify whether it is Bms, or Black

I think that the material is ok for a toolblock. Regards Lynne.

Thanks to everyone who has responded with respect to suitable material. The material I found on ebay, which satisfies the 90mm criteria, is described as BMS to 080A15/EN3A.

EN3A is described as having good machinability,weldability,lowtensile, and can be case hardened, which to me would be an ok material. I have not so far in my internet searches, found an other material which meets the 90mm criteria.

Puzzling in some ways as 080A15 is cross referenced to EN3B, but in my view is still an ok material. RegardsLynne

Jason, Thanks for the information reference enlarging the type A to give the dimensions required for the type B.

Michael W, The casting will cost me £33,90 90mm square bar will cost £22 and 90mm dia. bar £13,55

With that kind of saving I am quite happy to make swarf, even to the extent of filling a small bag.

I have found all the other comment of interest. Regards Lynne.

JasonB. Quite some time ago,(2012 actually) you made the comment 'cannot see the point in using a casting, easier and cheaper to machine from a block of steel or CI. Did you ever make one, and if so do you have a copy of the detail drg. for the 'B' version. If yes, any chance of a copy?. Regards Lynne.

I have been following this thread with interest, as I am thinkig of buying a Rotary Table.Vertex were in the frame,but in the light of comment, I am looking at alternatives. Arc prices are a bit eye watering by comparison, and they are supplied with mounting plate for Chinese chucks, and its Hobsons choice. They (Arc) did put it to me that it was only a small element of the total cost, which to me is saying it would'nt be any cheaper if they were to supply minus the plate. Warco have quite a good range , but they give no indication as to the origin of the tables, and I would be interested to hear from forum members who may have more knowledge of Warco products than I. Finally, is it a major machining op to marry up mounting plate to Rotary table and chuck, to achieve repeatable concentricity.. Lynne.

http://www.shop-apt.co.uk/torx-screws.html Good range, good service and quick. Lynne

Mike, www.shop-apt.co.uk/ Large range of inserts etc and good service. Lynne.

John, Thanks for the reply, and for the pointers on tool use. I have had a look at the Rotogrip site,

& I think that set TTS5-3 is probably the set you were referring to. Seems quite sensibly priced.

Lynne

I was interested to see the reference to A.P.T. in recent posts. I chanced to find them as a result of a search for 'Insert stockists' I was quite pleased to find that they made inserts available in packs of two, however, they had no TCMT available which were suitable for general steel turning, they were available but on a minimum order of 10. I emailed them and having identified the inserts I was interested in, they made them available in packs of 2. I was impressed by their approach to customer service and feel that it deserves to be more widely known.

John .I like your idea of one tool to machine R&L. Glanze have a tool, Ref. STECN1010 which pictorially looks identical to the tool you show a picture of, they also show similar tools for R&LH which to me look no different. So I have to assume that there are subtle differences to the inserts.

So the question is:- If I were to replace the tip with a general turning tip (TCMT110204) do I finish up with a tool suitable for R&LH turning. Lynne

John, I will wire the motor minus capacitor, and cut out in series.

Thanks again to all who have responded to my enquiry. Lynne

Muzzer. You are correct, the free black lead did go to the tag. Your suggestion that the two were from a thermal cutout buried down the side of the windings, encouraged me to try and extract it, and it did relatively easily, together with the protective shroud. I have put a picture in my album, for as yet I have not sussed attaching pictures to my posts. However I did get a reading of 8 ohms across the two leads, and 18 ohms through the two stator windings, so what does that tell you?

Reasons for overheating. The motor and cyl. type fan, were seriously gunged up with fat, despite renewing filters from time to time. It would be a shame to bin it, as the bracketry and bearings are robust, and incorporate rubber mtgs.

Les. Thanks for the picture upgrade. Wish I were able to do that. No info on wiring arrangement. Capacitor value, no idea. The innards had extruded themselves from the casing, which was a sticky mess, and attempts to clean, resulted in removal of any data that existed. Picture of the other side in my album Sorry.

John & Colin. Thanks for all your input. I guess that if the device is indeed a thermal cut out, it should be retained in the circuitry , that is if the motor ever runs again .

John, I have created an album,and there should be a photo of the motor

Colin, thanks for your informative response.The motor does indeed have 2 stator winding, and 2 shading rings, one of which has 2 leads from it which I now am aware was probably connected to a capacitor. There was once a speed controller which gave variable speed (not stepped) and a capacitor which had seen better days, just a sticky mess, , so I could'nt determine any values the rest of the controller had burnt out .The extractor hood assy is German, and a label on the casing states 'motor 230v, 50hz,230w.

I have readings through the 2 stator windings, the rotor looks ok , but how would I check?. Capacitor type and values? and wiring it in would be speculative. I would be quite pleased to have the motor run at one speed.

The motor has all the characteristics of a ______ from what I have seen of pictures, so what should I call it. I could come up with a few non electrical terms. Regards Lynne

KWIL, Thanks for the lead.

Thanks to all who have responded to my post. Having looked again one lead is is attached to a stator coil, however

the other lead is not , I had thought that there was a link from where the other wire of the coil was soldered, to the tag where the other lead shaded ring was attached , and there is'nt. deteriorating eyesight, age related that is my excuse. There was once a speed control system consisting of potentiometer triac resistor and capacitor, which overheated in a serious fashion, burnt out infact. I am not into electronics sufficiently to put together a replacement.. The resistance through the stator windings is 8 ohms, which seems very low.

It is going to be an interesting exercise to find a replacement which is dimensionally similar. The extractor assembly is German , as are the rest of the kitchen units, and fitted over 25 years ago

Regards, Lynne

I have an extractor fan motor (not working) where one shaded ring is wired in parallel with the stator windings. An internet search of wiring diagrams does'nt show this, but there are so many I may have missed it. Is this wiring arrangement unusual. I would be interested to know a bit more about it.

Regards Lynne

Have a look at CupAlloys web site , best brazing practice, they tell you there.

Duncan, I have a RDM350, and have shimmed the rack to eliminate column radial movement, and upgraded the depth stop arrangement. I have searched unsuccessfully for a manual. The bearings are becoming a little noisy and a copy of the manual, would I am sure be useful to help me dismantle the quill etc. Any chance of a copy? and any other info which would be useful. Thanks Lynne J.