Member postings for david homer

Hi Colin, I manged to lift mine staight up by standing on an adjacent bench, mine was cast iron where yours looks like ally, guess yours is a later version than mine,it was heavy. As Jon says I think you need get some small wedges in around the flange to get it moving.

Have you tried a new capacitor, I managed to find one on e-bay. Trouble with capacitors on 1ph motors is they dont like too many starts per hour, which if you are like me its off and on allthe time.

if its the centrifugal switch you maybe able to prove that by spinning the spindle and switching it on, try it in one of the slower speeds as that will result in the motor turning faster, just be careful though. If the switch if faulty and you cannot repair ir you find a solid state one to replace it, these are used on 1ph hermetic refrigeration compressors where you cannot have the switch inside the casing.

David

Hi Colin

I have a Chester Super Lux bought in 2005, checked today and when i switch it off you can hear the centrifugal switch operate. The motor on mine just slots into a coupling with a nylon key, no other fixings except 4 cap heads through the motor flange.

To prove the theory that 2 of the wires are from a thermistor, why not put the motor in a warm place or a cold place and see if you get any change in resistance.

David

I think you will find that the circle on the left with the 'headphones' is a klixon overload operated by heat from the motor or from high current passing through the coil. The connection at 9 o,clock is the live connection which goes through the o/l coil to pin 4, when powered up there will be high current drawn by the run winding trying to start the motor and as this goes through the coil between pins 4 and 3 this then operates the relay contacts and puts a live to the start windings, once the motor has started the current will drop and the contacts open taking the live off the start winding. The line crossing along the bottom will be the neutral. This type of relay is used on hermetic compressors on fridges etc where you cannot have a centrifugal switch, but are also useful if the centrifugal switch on a motor is beyond repair just operates by current rather than centrifugal force. But I could be completely wrong as it is 40+ years since I looked at anything like this.

David

Look for Makralon polycarbonate sheet, it was machine guards are made of, impact resistant and does not crack like acrylic.

David

You could try BES Ltd they 1/4" x 20g

It could be a couple of things, the phial on the end of the thermostat capillary tube has become detached as Dave points above, the thermostat is faulty, the type of fridge were the panel at the back can be seen to frost up and defrost and runs down to a drain at the bottom depends on the differential of the stat between cutting the compressor out and it restarting, it will not have a heater for defrosting, it cuts out below freezing point where the stat phial is attached and will start up again at some point above freezing so that any frost will have thawed and the phial has warmed.

It could also be loss of refrigerant, some loss will still allow it to freeze on the panel but not reach the stat phial which is usually at the last section, if you find where the phial is attached and seeif it is freezing at that point. If it is not it will never cut out. If it is short of gas what is left in will be running at a colder temperature than normal causing more frost than usual.

It is usually better to have the fridge full than empty as there is less air changed when the door is opened, and there will be less heat going, in unless your wife is putting a lot of very warm food in.

Listen for the compressor cutting in and out, if it just running continuous it will never defrost, that could be asymptom of being short of gas or a faulty stat.

Pirelli used to make cables, sold out to Prysmian, solder for cable jointing? how about material for wheel balance weights.

Years ago I changed out ball type linear bearings for Hepco Pacific bearings in an industrial application plagued with dust problems, the Hepco are what looks like PTFE and Bronze composition and can be run dry. No doubt they will be more expensivie, info here

http://www.hepcomotion.com/product/linear-motion-components/pacific-plain-linear-bearings-and-pillow-block-bearings/

RS used to stock them.

David

This company makes them,

http://www.beakbane.co.uk/products/telescopic-springs

David

Hi

There are a couple of yahoo groups which cover Raglan lathes and mills, if you have not already seen them.

Might be worth looking and asking there, the link below is to one of them.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/RaglanMachineTools2/info

David

Sorry in an earlier post I put Loctite 603, that should have been 406, sorry for the error. The adhesive is cheap enough but the primer is a bit more expensive, I do have some primer, where abouts are you.

David

If you look at this link, load the product catalogue pdf, then go to page 33 you will see over on the left what type of material, under that is silicone.

David

**LINK**

Loctite 603 which is a superglue, but you have to use theier primer 770

Used to use it a lot when I was working to join 12mm silicone o ring cord to seal doors on a vacuum lock.

David

Tony

I bought some from British Hardwoods some years ago, not sure if they have minimum order quantities. They are in Keighly West Yorkshire, might be worth giving them a call, google British Hardwoods and you will find their website.

David

If that is the Fowler 3500gal tender the dimensions Martin Evans gave for it for the Royal Scot was 22 7/16" x 9 1/2" wide over the running boards with the body dimensions being 21 5/8" x 9".

David

Changed ours to 40mm insulated sectional door, mainly because we were suffering a bit with cold cloakroom and hall which only had a single thickness brick wall between them and the garage. There was enough width in the garage to insulate the wall. The difference in the winter is quite noticeable, both in the house and in the garage which now holds some heat from the house. The door seals well both onto the face seal and the seal to the floor. Only downside is the headroom where the door slides into garage, but very similar to up and overs.

David

I put a 2 3/16" hole in a 6 1/4" tube for mine, using a hole saw, use as slow a speed as possible make sure it is fastened down well. The other thing I did was to replace the drill with a solid bar as a guide once I had drlled the pilot hole. I used WD40 as a cutting lubricant. If the arbor for the hole saw has 2 pegs that go in the top of the hole saw like mine had, I left them retracted so that the hole saw screws up against the arbor, I found this stops it wobbling about.

David

You should be able to a picture of one here

http://modeleng.proboards.com/search/results?what_exact_phrase=double+clack&who_only_made_by=0&display_as=0

You might also find some info if you look through John's web site

David

Hi guys

Thanks for the postings, all very good information, one question I have if anyone can answer it is the quantity of steam I could pass through one of that design. I am building a 3 cylinder 5" gauge Royal Scot, Martin Evans design, the regulator he shows is a sliding plate on the top of the regulator body, the body is shown with 2 x 5/16 holes so my concern is whether I could get sufficient steam through a screw type regulator.