Member postings for Sam Longley 1

When I purchased my Warco WM 250 lathe it included a quick change tool post with only 2 tool holders. I need some more but they are out of stock.

The tool holder warco item ref is 9355 & the tool post is a ref 9009 size 75 * 75 * 50 high

Does anyone know if the Warco is a standard type of tool post & if tool holders can be purchased from the likes of Chronos, RDG etc & if so what type is it & how does one describe it when ordering tool holders for it

Thanks

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/09/2017 20:38:02

I used to buy the RC& ME magazine years ago & in those days it was great as it really did have bits of engineering as well as model making. Now it seems to be just model flying ( i still fly model planes) but not worth buying

I bought the digital version of model engineer last year & apart from the hassle of trying to read it on digital media i only managed to download one copy & found it so boring i only read half a dozen issues & would never buy it again

As for retirement i think that it is really sad that so many are really glad to walk away from work & many seem to have bad memories of the last few years. I have loved my work the whole of my life although having my own business allowed me some lattitude to taylor it to change to my mood. When i sold up in 2000 i went to consultancy & although completely different it was a fantastic eye opener & even though i am 70 i still work the winters. Firstly because i get paid far more than i am worth & secondly because i enjoy the power without the worry of the after effects of possible failure!!!

However, i now have so many things to do even that may not happen this year- even though i am expected to return

My parents had a large house with lots of valuable items. They felt that if they had a burglary they would not remember exactly what they had at the time or prove they actually had it.

To solve this they hired a proffessional photographer for a day who photographed everything in the house.

I have not logged my own tools etc but i do , from time to time, take photos when i am tidying up & have a toolbox emptied out. I also have photos of my workshop ,lathe etc

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/08/2017 07:05:26

I am with hiscox. Cover extended to include £10k for gear in garages. Policy includes all sorts of things such as the wife hitting someone with a golf ball or me hitting someone with a model plane. Bikes stollen when away from home etc etc.i live near water so that upsets some insurers. Value of contents & rebuild is unlimited

recommended by the RICS of which i am a member

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/08/2017 08:25:27

But you have not said why you were told. You just blindly followed -do you never stop & ask why? when told to do something.

You are compressing. the tube but due to missalignment of the studding within the tube you are applying the force asymetricaly.

I would suggest that you turn some nuts round to make a sliding fit within the tube. These should be placed at close evenly spaced intervals along the studding which can then be inserted inside the tube. Hopefully this woul keep the studding central whilst pre stressing takes place.

In theory under normal load the tube will want to resist deflection if placed as a cantilever. As load is increased it will react wiithin itself to resist this deflection.tension will immediately occur in the top sector

If one prestresses it the initial stages of tension are counteracted by compression & until the 2 forces balance bending will be significantly reduced( subject to what happens in the bottom sector) if the stud had been placed in the top sector the tube would have bent upwards but we want a demonstration of an axially placed rod so compression applies on upper & lower sectors equally. This should not affect the increased performance of the prestressed unit.

However, one has to consider how much compression can be applied by a single set screw & if that is adequate to make a difference

It is 50 years since i did theory of structures so cannot prove mathematically anymore----apologies

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/08/2017 20:33:17

I had a problem with my change wheels on my warco not fitting on the bushes & even the ones fitted had to be removed with a puller. I took them to a toolmaker friend who ran a 14 mm reamer through one but it was still slightly tight. He ran a carbide burr up the face of each edge of the reamer & not only did it cut better but it took anothe couple of thou off & the gear wheel fitted as did all the rest after reaming.

I am not sure if the link came from this forum but i followed a you tube video &made a handle to fit my warco lathe headstock to do threadcutting. At present i am only doing the hand pump for my pyrte traction engine in brass complete with all the compression fittings. I only had one test piece then after that every piece, male or female has worked perfectly because each bit has been cut to fit its mate. I had problems with the warco because the gear wheel assembly was all stuck solid & i needed hub puller to get the cogs off. I needed a reemer to all the gears & a file to the keyways etc ( machine was new to me but this was the first atempt after 18 months)

I have not tried steel yet but have ordered a load of cutters from china which will hopefully be arrived when i get home from sailing( currently in ostend & heading into holland until end of august)

Do not see why it will not work

It does not matter what thread pitch one uses so long as one sticks to the same one & one does not have to worry about dial indicators, over runs etc which is helpful on internal threads in particular. Just wind the handle back & forth & leave in gear but disengage the cutter when winding back

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 11/08/2017 15:50:54

What you do is cut the barrel off just at the dent & flog it to some pykies for their "post office collection trade"

I have sent you a PM

Sam Longley

Deleted as Derek & Clive is possibly not the right content for this forum

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 31/07/2017 20:35:54

I cut polystyrene for model aeroplane wings using heavy gauge fishing wire trace hooked up to a standard dimmer switch & a 120V site transformer. I am sure that one could rig up a piece of wire to a transformer on a wooden handle to form the "U" shape . The lower voltage of the transformer should be better than 240 V

Doesn't take a lot of working out does it !!!

But yes, they are good & the driver in our area has a good attitude too

Thankyou

That is a help. I assume that there must be Myford users out there who would want one at a reduced cost

If I upset the mods here please remove & accept apologies. Perhaps this should go on the for sale section but I am not sure of a value to place on this.

I have an 80 year old friend who is a pattern maker who still works his business on a part time basis. In his workshop we found a:-

Myford multi cutting stop ref 1483.

Totally unused, brand new in the original box.

These items cost quite a lot new & he would like to sell it, but not for pennies. He would also like to sell it to someone who would use it, ie a model engineer.

Does anyone know what they cost new?

Or would someone like to make me an offer so that I can go back to him & see if he wants to let it go

Thanks

In built up areas many people have to park in the street & that may not always be outside their house. So if they want to charge their vehicle at home at night do they have a long lead up the street to the car ?

The ... will have a field day nicking cable

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 27/07/2017 08:29:19

Shows my age-- I thought he meant Flash Gordon !!

Been humming the tune ever since--------- Flash  Huh HuHaaaa......

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/07/2017 07:03:00

Never done this but presumably if you could get the cylinder out you may be able to work something inside to operate the lock mechanism. So why not get a felt pen & mark around the handle on the inside (not outside) of the door. remove the handle & then drill into the door just in line with the centre of the cylinder ( keeping within the felt lines so any damage is later hidden) Then you may be able to expose the screw that holds the cylinder. If you can then grind it off with a dremel you may just slide the cylinder out. Then you can check that it was not the tab on the cylinder that was at fault.

Then you may be able to see inside the lock & with a bent screwdriver operate it manually

Is that a possibility?

A 12mm hilti or rawlbolt - the type with a sleeve & a tapered end. Cut "V"s in one of the sleeves to replicate saw teeth. Then get the bolt & place it part way in the sleeve & weld or pin it in place. The bolt goes in the chuck of a drill.

Then put a hole in a bit of ply the size of the hole. Place this over the nail. Stand with one foot on the ply to stop it moving. This stops your set up skating around. Then drill through the hole into the pallet.Really needs a very fast mains electric drill. but I have drilled holes through blockwork using bits of conduit with teeth cut in the end& you can get through wood but an electricians hole saw would be better. just remove the centre drill & use the bit of ply to start you off

You will soon get fed up & revert to a nail bar though.!!!

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 22/07/2017 11:44:06

Believe me you would not want your cavities filled with grease ---unless you were enjoying some perverted activity that is

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2017 08:24:02