Member postings for Nimble

Has anyone had any experience with Librecad drawing program for 2D and orthagonal drafting. Is it easier to learn than other Freeware?

Regards, Nimble Neil

Hi Nigel,

What I would suggest you do is to buy a second monitor (even a second hand one) and install it. Mine installed on the HDMI socket. I installed mine for the vary same reasons that you have needs to

Once you have worked with two screens you will wonder how you did without. We often have several sheets of paper on our desks and refer to them while working ,having two screens is somewhat the same.

Regards, Nimble Neil

Hi Bob,

I looked up the MSDS sheet for Trefolex and the constituents appear to be:-

Sulphur 10-30%

Talc! 10-30 %

Vegetable Oils !0-30%

Tallow less than 10%

Hydrocarbons 30-60%

Ethanol less than1 %

Methanol Less than 1 %

These figures were taken from two different MSDS data sheets.

Could it be the Vegetable oil would be Castor Oil?

I also see that Neatsfoot oil can be used as a cutting oil. (I Use it on The Cone Clutch of my Vintage Car)

Regards, Nimble Neil.

Hi Sonic,

I have just purchased too holder SRDPN1010H10T3 off Ali Express (LRC TOOL OFFICIAL STORE) They supplied with it inserts RPMT1073 Other insert types were also listed.

Like Paul my intention is to use them on a ball turner

**LINK**

Regards, Neil

Sam

I had a need when overhauling my differential for some shim washers and to make them I followed the following procedure. Initially I cut the shim stock into squares slightly larger than the final diameter required. The first operation then was to mark the centre of the square and use a small wad punch to cut a 3 mm diameter hole in the centre of the shim stock. This operation can be missed, if there is plenty of leeway on the final size. I then made a piercing punch and counter that was held in my bench drill, the shear being held in the chuck and the counter centralised on the table. The shear had a locating pin, which was used to centralise on the 3mm punched hole in the shim stock. Then a second cut of 15mm diam was then pierced in the centre of the shim stock. Two pieces of 3mm plate were then cut into two squares the plates had a holes machined for the aligning spigot and to allow the boring bar to pass through Clearance holes were drilled in the corners of one the squares, the other was threaded to take the clamping bolts. Assembling the punched shim stock on the spigot centralised the shims on the clamping squares and by turning the plates at 45 degrees the bolts were able to be tightened to form a solid unit .This unit was then centred in a 4 jaw chuck and was bored out to the required bore size of the shim washers. A large piece of round was chucked and it was bored and threaded and a spigot was turned to fit the bore of the shims, another round was bored to fit over the spigot and a through bolt was used to clamp all the shims together. The whole assembly was then turned to the final diameter required. Maybe not as quick as hand cutting, but the satisfaction of having well made shims was worth the effort.

I have since realised that another method of producing shim washers now, would be to get them either water or laser cut, this method could also be used for producing tabbed lock-washers, although some sizes are available from bearing suppliers.

Nimble Neil

Hi Kiwi Bloke,

Is it possible for you to satisfy these requirements by either going to the British High Commission in Wellington or a British Consulate, possibly in Auckland Christchurch or Dunedin? They also could possibly take a statutory declaration. I think it would be worth a call to the nearest consular office to check out the possibilities.

At least now you wont have to do it in Te Reo!

Regards from another Kiwi.

Nimble Neil.

Hi Vic'

One method of shortening screws is to screw on nut with excess length protruding, hold nut in vice and use a cold chisel to cut off excess length, unscrewing nut from screw will clean up thread.

Alternatively a cheap and cheerful “lantern chuck” can be made by turning down a short length of rod and threading the end, then using dome nuts in the three jaw drill and tap to the require size (head of screw must be able to enter), position screw to give length of screw required. Screw nut onto threaded shaft until head hits end of threaded portion, place in chuck and turn off unwanted portion of screw. Disassemble to remove screw.

I have done down to a 2mm screw.ic

Hi Martyn,

If you have an engraving tool (graver or burin) use that to create a groove away from the entry point or groove as per Grahams post. In king pins this groove did not go all the way to the end of the bush.

Regards,

Nimble Neil

Hi Steve,

What I do is turn about the dies width down to the root diameter of the thread and put small chamfer on the end of the rod, either then slip the die over the reduced shank or if necessary proceed as if threading when you get to the full diameter of shaft commence threading as per normal.

Perfectly aligned!

Regards, Nimble Neil

Hi William,

How about a commercial 3d scan and have them output a file of the flat surface of the head, .this could then be output possibly to a sign-writers stencil cutter. This is food for thought for myself when I need to re-do a head gasket for my1926 Renault, as the previous gaskets re-cut from old gaskets and do not necessarily pass over the head studs.

Regards, Nimble Neil.

Hi Michael,

Duncan has just reminded me of the method that I now use . I have a 32mm spanner machined down to 3mm thick which goes on the nose of the quill and using a "C" spanner in the dampening ring of the Clarkson (as Duncan mentions and from memory a left hand thread) you can eject the chuck easily. Use a cloth for the chuck to drop onto to avoid damage to the chuck. Best of luck.

Regards,

Nimble Neil

Hi Michael,

It looks like your set up is an Emco mill. On mine to eject an S type Autolock I use a 5/16 rod 6 1/8 " long stepped at one end to 1/4" and inserted reduced end down then use fine threaded nut to eject.. To hold the Autolock , I have created an extension female- male, looks like 8mm female to 3/8"w/w male (but would check that) over al l7/8 male.so that I can use 8mm draw bar.

Will try to add photos later.

Nimble Neil

Hi Malcolm,

How about in line ball joints.

https://www.aetnascrew.com/ball-joints.html

Dismantle to get diameter and size required.

Nimble Neil.

Hi Mike,

I also own a 13/60 Herald and would be interested in your EFI. any information you could give me would be of interest PM me if you wish.

Nimble Neil.

Hi Stewart,

A good source for second hand and old books is https://www.abebooks.com/ fill in details as few or as many as you know. Great source!

Regards,

Nimble Neil

pgrbbf,

I wholeheartedly agree with using sealed bearings, not only do they retain lubrication within, but they also stop the ingress of grit and sawdust, probably the best reason for their installation. When overhauling my vintage car I used sealed bearings whenever possible they also stop leakage of lubricant onto nearby parts brake shoes in my case, and wood surfaces in your case.

Regards, Nimble Neil.

01/03/21

Stiil awaiting Issue 299 MEW here in New Zealand. Is It Royal Mail or is it NZ Post? At one stage it would appear that issues were sent in bulk to NZ then mailed from here. Are other Kiwis receiving their issues?

A hacked off Nimble Neil.

Hi Brian,

Perhaps if you get into glass blowing you could start making Klein Bottles!

https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Klein_bottle .

Care should be taken when blowing, that moisture does not condense on the inside of the tube as it can cause the glass to fracture.

Regards,

Nimble Neil

Hi Viv,

Perhaps a first simple task would be to make a "camphor boat" then move on toa "put-put" ("putt-putt", " pop- pop" boat. many plans are available on the net, and not much in the way of tools required. If wanted could make a simple version, then make more complicated versions

Regards,

Nimble Neil

Edited By Nimble on 14/02/2021 23:06:48