Member postings for HomeUse

Hi Terryd - I had a copy of the Utilities on my Old PC - Now I have been updated to A MAC by my more modern offspring it wont download - !!!!! Modern Technolagy !!!!

Thanks Bob D - will look up details.

Hi - can anyone give me a link ore details of this Arrand tool - seems i must have missed it

Hi this site may help - I have always found it produces good domes - **LINK**

Thanks - will go to w/shop and give it a go

I have some lengths of 50x50mm & 50x12mm which I intend to turn into rear tool post and holders - As I have never used Ground Flat Stock before, should special tools be used - tool angles etc.

Has anyone any hints or sugestions

The spec. of the steel is:-

Oil Hardening BS01 Type Alloy Steel (Its in original packaging)

Carbon 0.95% - Silicon 0.30% - Manganese 1.25% - Chromium 0.50% - Tungsten 0.%0% - Vanadiem 0.20%

Any help would be appreciated

Boss White is still available (as is a Blue version [potable]) from builders/plumbers merchants

GS Supplies **LINK** carry plans and comprehensive sets of castings - have found them most supportive to us M E's

Hi Andyf - Ether is comercial cloriform - I used to buy it from the highstreet chemest for use in small areo engines ( Ether/CasterOil/Parafin) combination - It also glued together the perspex canopies on the models - Disolve slithers of perspex in ether to make sticky goo and then use in well vented (outside) area. - Dont know if Ether as still available (may be not due to some Health and Safety reg.!!!

Had a similar problem years ago when I had to replace some cycle threaded countersunk bolts with new longer ones - could not obtain any so had to result to home workshop indignity. Two new bolts were obtained for each one to be replaces - head cut off of one and soldered/brazed to the other to increase the length.

A simple jig was made with a block of material (I used a large carbon brush from a D C motor, but other non solderable/brazing material can be used). A hole that is a good sliding fit on the outside of the bolt was drilled through the length of the jig near to one edge and a slot (castilation) was cut in that edge to expose the bolt when in the hole - the ends being soldered were splayed (scarf joint) and the butted together in the jig. In my situation there was no need to worry about lining up the threads as only the bottom 1/4" or so was used.

The solder/braze was applied to the joint through the cut out - in many years use (stripping and rebuilds) there was no problems - as far as I can recall the bolts were about 5/32"

Hope this will be of use

Seasonal Greetings

Hi modeng2000 - An old saying from around this area

"All volks be darft bar thee an me and thee bist darfter than me."

Hi Siddley - You will have plenty of time to spend "doing what you want to do." - have a good Xmas

Seasons greetings to all, and may you spend many a happy hour "Swarf" making

Greeting to all

Hi Siddley

So far I have not had any glazing deposites - The lathe is not left for any lengh of time between using - I will keep a watch out in future - many thanks

I also had a type of split Die ( very similar to R Dodds [above] ), but the threaded "teeth" were cut into the top moving piece (there were3 of these) and the bottom was a "V" shape that the bar rested in.

This was used by my grandfather, who was a Coachbuilder/Cabinet Maker, to cut threads onto wrot. ironwork for coaches/carages and oftain on bars that held together tall turned hardwood candlesticks.

As a child I was allowed to "help him" in his workshops - His favourite phase being "cant you keep the nipper out from under my feet!!" - any way I remenber that the distances of the "teeth" were 1/8, 1/10, and 1/12 of an inch as measured on his boxwood bench rules. - As far as I can remember the pitch used was "best for material" and used on any diameter.

I also remember that nuts were formed by forging a lump (square) of red hot metal with a hole in it, directly onto the threaded bar that that had been cut.

I might add that his measuring items were boxwood rules, calipers and deviders.

I dont know I am correct, but was informed by a lifelong engineer that the best oil for smaller lathes like the myford, is Castrol "R". He was a two wheeled high performance engine fanatic like myself.

I took his advice and have been using "R" for the last few years on my myford with great sucess and no known disadvantages. The only thing missing is the "Race" smell when it burns - maybe could make a burner to give the right atmospere.

Has any one else used "R", or do they know of any reasons why it should not be used

Wow - this is forming into a good thread.

I have just read through all the postings and have, "come to a sort of a conclusion".

We are "engineers" looking for perfection in the products we have and use.

The first requirement seems to be "a virgin that is fit for purpose" ( They could be Asian, Italian, German or any from any other country)

The second requitement is " the virgin must be able to perform the action that you require it to do"

The third requirement would be "the virgin should be accurate in all movements wheather back or forward. side to side and up and down,

The fourth is " the virgin should perform at the speed that is applicable to the task being performed"

Fifth " there should not be any drop off in speed or power when the working gets harder"

Sixth - You fill it in - I am going out in the workshop (Shed) to make some pure British SWARF and then have a good rub down with mistletoe before I paint the berry juce on

If you want to download and print tapping/clearance sizes the **LINK** is a good site - print page logo top right or page.

Try **LINK**

Other retailers do supply

WELL SAID KWIL

Much more confusion - If the colour was changed from grey to green on/about SK142981, then Kenneth Deighton has a product that is before this date - His number is SK83292 which may indicate that it is a "Repaint" which could have been part of a factory rebuild.

My own Lathe is a Super7 - Grey - Date of supply (to the original owners) Sept 1971. Number SK 99535 stamped on the rear at the tailstock end.

As KD's Lathe is prior to my numbers then one could be confident in saying that it his lathe should/would have been produced in 1968/69 and as it is before Myford changed the colours should be Grey (Unless a repaint!!)

Can any one else (possably ex Myford) give more info.